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96 Chevy K3500 with the 5.7l It has about 215K miles. I am trying to diagnose a fuel pressure issue. My truck first started to run rough like it had a miss. Check engine light came on. I had codes for both banks being lean. I cleaned the MAF sensor with no change. I checked for vacuum leaks. I hooked up a scan tool and checked the LTFT for both banks. They are both at 25%. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail test port. Key on engine off it is around 45. As soon as the pump shuts off it almost instantly drops to 0. I am trying to figure out if I have a bad check valve in my fuel pump or if my FPR is bad. Before this all started, I noticed a loss in power. It could barely get a trailer up the slightest incline. I was trying to see if I could find out the difference in the speed of fuel pressure dropping when the check valve in the pump is bad and when the FPR is bad, to try and isolate the issue.
U0100 Lost communication with ECM
U0073 CAN Bus Communication
P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect
P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination
P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2
Good Morning Yall,
Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum.
Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain.
Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently.
Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on.
One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps.
I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter. The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
By Cody G
I have a 2021 6.2 Chevy Silverado, and just did a muffler and flapper delete. Sounds amazing but is way to loud on the highway and drones way too much for me. I am wanting to put a muffler back on but I want one that is as loud as I can get with no drone. I was looking at the Flowmaster 50 Delta Flow, the 40 series delta flow, or a Magnaflow 22 inch muffler... I am wondering the pros and cons of all of these, if they drone, and how loud they really are. I have watched a bunch of Youtube videos on them and they just don't do a justice for how loud the drone is. If you guys have any other suggestions for what to put on there I am open! Thank you!
2015 Silverado no crank no start with key. (have engine light on dash and also have u422) have replaced starter and battery. have 12.5 volts at the starter. checked 2amp fuse in dash for ignition switch, checked under the hood 15amp fuse that powers the ignition switch, checked the 60 amp fuse in fuse box. also checked the 40 amp fuse, checked starter relay in fuse box under hood. tried jumping starter relay post and got nothing. have 12.5 volts at power leg of starter relay, have ground on ground leg of relay. can jump starter solenoid with screw driver and truck runs and drives.
gear shift selection shows park when in it and neutral. Anybody have any ideas of what could be going on?
Any help before I have to leave the truck at the dealer for a few days would be great.
Dual 7 pin and 4 pin connector
Test the 7 pin : 8 volts when grounded to the wiring harness
Test the 4 pin : 7-8 volts when grounded to the wiring hardness
Test the 7 pin : 8 volts when grounded to the Frame
Test the 4 pin : 7-8 volts when grounded to the Frame
7-8 Volts on when testing at the fuse panel under the hood. Grounded to the engine block.
Relay seems good, all 4 fuses are good. Other Fuses like lights, radio and wipers all bring back 12v range.
I am not sure where to go from here. I don't want to miss a ground wire or something.
I did clean and re-attach the ground wire next to the brake controller under the rear of the truck.
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