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Posted

2022 AT4 3500 

with 6.6L gasoline engine

 

Tried searching did not seek it.

 

Looking for front AND rear AXLE fluid type?

 AND when did folks do the initial change of those front AND rear AXLE fluids?

Also  when did folks do the initial change of the transmission / transfer case fluids?

 

 

Posted (edited)

I changed out the front and rear differential fluids on my Silverado at 500 miles as well as my transfer case.  The transmission I did at 25k only because I wasn't able to do it myself and had the dealer do it for me.  Cost me $130 for them to change out the transmission fluid.  I provided the AMSOIL ATL transmission fluid.

 

The differentials I used AMSOIL's Severe Gear 75w-90 in the Easy Packs.  It was super easy and no mess like with a pump from a bottle.

 

You can find the AMSOIL products if you want for your truck here.

 

If you are interested in AMSOIL let me know and I can send you a quote delivered to your door. 

 

SVGPK.jpg.d0241853f8cbe9fbac103b3d04aca34e.jpgatlpk.jpg.2916d38661acfa995e92497ed38ff6dd.jpg

Edited by Black02Silverado
  • Like 2
Posted

Did what Nick did using Amsoil Signature Series products including transfer case at ~14,000 miles.

 

Shift, performance, and mpg improved. 

 

As a side note I installed Signature Series Amsoil 5w30 about 1000 miles ago and it really smoothed and quieted engine.  

 

I run E15 Maverik unbranded Phillips 66 refined E15 here that is at least 86 octane and it performs really well on road and off. 

  • Like 1
Posted

A long ass time lol.

 

If spending $200 in fluids so soon helps you sleep at night, go for it but there is a 99.9% chance that you'd have no problems going 50,000+ miles with the original fluid.

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

CamGTP, yes the OEM fluids will last and not cause damage but proactively replacing with synthetic higher quality fluids may reduce wear and possibly improve gas mileage over time.  So spending $200 on some  for my $70k truck is worth it IMHO. 

Edited by GMC4Zee
spelling
  • Like 1
Posted

The Silverado 3500 is a 7,000+ lbs brick going down the road. Switching to a "Full Synthetic" fluid isn't going to change anything when it comes to gaining fuel mileage.

 

Think of the millions and millions of miles that GM puts on a truck while testing, they are working with top of the line equipment and major manufacturers of oils, tires etc etc. If something truly made a difference that would stop premature wear and helped their CAFE ratings, they'd be doing it.

 

I've been tuning and messing with vehicles for the past 12 years, never has a transmission or gear oil fluid change made a difference in fuel mileage. No doubt that Amsoil and others makes great stuff and if spending the money makes you feel better, go for it.

  • Confused 1
Posted

Investor owned and driven companies such as GM are all about $$.  Engineers may set the spec's but the bean counters are required to seek out the lowest prices on lubricants/chemicals.  And like almost everything made by a low bidder, short cuts are taken and lower quality additives are used to meet the low price of the bid. 

The goal is to make it last the warranty period, after that it’s the customers problem. 

Posted

Sure I get that, it's always about the mighty dollar and trying to save.

 

But someone needs to explain to me why do we still see old cars out of the road? Like I'm talking vehicles from the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90's still running and still going. Those cars were around when inferior fluids were all you could run and well, they are doing alright. We could go on and on with all this but in the grand scheme of things, it's not as big of deal as people make it out to be.

Posted

Those cars are still around because they were taken care of, Simple. Brother in law drove a Pontiac for 31 years, sold early this year. He fixed what needed to be done and changed the fluids. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 9/7/2022 at 10:47 PM, CamGTP said:

A long ass time lol.

 

If spending $200 in fluids so soon helps you sleep at night, go for it but there is a 99.9% chance that you'd have no problems going 50,000+ miles with the original fluid.

Absolutely true Cam.  However I wouldn't get a  ~4.4% gain in MPG,  smoother response, shifting, and better temp control. That Mobil1 HP started slipping enough it felt almost like a CVT accelerating. 

 

My Trans temp has not exceeded 215F since installing Amsoil ATL vs the Mobil1 HP ATF which headed to 220F or so.  No towing yet. 

 

I didn't make a 43 year living in tribology independently and for Cummins by "getting by". 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
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Posted
4 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Sure I get that, it's always about the mighty dollar and trying to save.

 

But someone needs to explain to me why do we still see old cars out of the road? Like I'm talking vehicles from the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90's still running and still going. Those cars were around when inferior fluids were all you could run and well, they are doing alright. We could go on and on with all this but in the grand scheme of things, it's not as big of deal as people make it out to be.

Rebuild and reman. 

Posted
On 9/10/2022 at 12:04 AM, CamGTP said:

I've been tuning and messing with vehicles for the past 12 years, never has a transmission or gear oil fluid change made a difference in fuel mileage.

 

I've been doing it for nearly 60 years and never had it not make a difference. Not always the one I was looking for and on occasion in the direction I did not expect but change it does if you measure carefully enough and long enough. There is always a reason and you will find it if you look for it in earnest. 

 

One of AMSOILS selling points and strategies is meeting the minimum HTHS viscosity for the SAE Grade possible for exactly this purpose. They have gone to some great efforts that in doing so to choose chemistries in wear additives to compensate in boundary regime and base oil choices to assure 'stay in grade'. I'm not tooting their horn just using them as an example of the efforts of the industry to effect that very change. It's also not the only way to skin that cat but a popular one. 

 

Now having said all that. I will agree that there are times the differences are so small the only people it matters to are law makers and theorist. 

 

Posted (edited)
On 9/10/2022 at 9:49 AM, CamGTP said:

But someone needs to explain to me why do we still see old cars out on the road? Like I'm talking vehicles from the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90's still running and still going.

 

It's a frog that has been boiled so slowly it never noticed it's goose was cooked. 

 

50's/60's especially (and earlier) they were stone axe simple and anyone that took an interest in maintaining one could and many did. In that culture it was required to get your MAN CARD 😉 Changing a fuel pump was a 15 minute job over the fender not a 4 hour top end tear down to get to it. The brain was behind the wheel and in control of analog. No MIT PhD required to tune a Carter 1 barrel carb. On and off in an hour on your kitchen table with your wife's household tool kit. If you were really lazy you watched the game while your 12 year old daughter did it. 

 

The OEMS have tried multiple times to kill the entire aftermarket and small private shop industry and it looks like they will get it done. But the full on frontal assaults they tired failed in courts. The after market is a large lobby. So they have poly-ticked there way to the goal. 

 

The car I learned to drive in, a 53 Ford Custom had a handbook that told one EVERYTHING about that car. I did not have to go to congress to get the front coil spring rates and the steel grade it was made from or the installed valve height and stud torque. Today my book says. "Don't drink the battery fluid".  

 

In the 70's to 90's it was harder but still home diyer doable. Then we learned to LOCK computers......

 

You knew this......

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

In the 80s I got stupid one weekend. I was bored with my 74 Impala with a 454. I bought a 76 nova. Without buying a single part. I pulled the 454 installed it in the nova. I pulled the 373 gear from the impala and put in in the nova. I left the 350 turbo in the nova and the 700R4 transmission in the Impala. The 273 gear was move to the impala. The next weekend I swapped back the gears and bought a junkyard 350 put in the Impala. Those were the days. 

  • Like 2
Posted

thanks for the discussions.

 

My older 2001 2500hd

GM recommend rear axle fluid after like first 1000 miles of towing.

 

did not know if the new ones are this way now also.

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