Jump to content

Changing fuel pumps

rav3

By rav3
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm curious if any of you have replaced your fuel tank fuel pump by tilting the truck bed versus removing the gas tank. Seems like it would be so much faster (and easier) to do it like this guy did in his video. Please let me know  your thoughts, opinions,  pros & cons

 

Edited by rav3
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

I haven't done it on a Silverado but helped a friend do one on his Ford Ranger. It did seem much easier but did require more than one person. On another car, it was some old Dodge compact, I dropped the gas tank on that. It was a real pain getting it back up again. I also had to replace the straps as they had gotten a bit grungy from winters on Midwestern roads.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Sam Corne Enthusiast

Sam Corne

Posted
Posted

Why not cut an access hole in the bed over top of the pump? Seems easier to me and the plastic bed liner would cover up the access hole without issue 

 

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Sam Corne said:

Why not cut an access hole in the bed over top of the pump? Seems easier to me and the plastic bed liner would cover up the access hole without issue 

 

 

I personally would never cut a hole in the bed for something like this. It may be easier but in the end, it's going to be one more spot that would quickly start to rust and end up a bigger problem. And if I were shopping for a used truck and found that, it would be a hard pass on that truck.

  • 2 weeks later...
Sam Corne Enthusiast

Sam Corne

Posted
Posted

They make spray on undercoating and bedliner spray to prevent rust issues. You will never see it unless you take the bed liner off. 

Quite a few vehicles these days have access doors to the pump location. 

Just makes sense. Making an access door would be very simple to do.

  • Sad 1
asilverblazer Senior Enthusiast

asilverblazer

Posted
Posted

You do you, but as noted, if I found that on a truck I was considering buying it would be an absolute no.

 

-If this hack couldn't be bothered to fix this without cutting the bed up, what else could they not be bothered with fixing properly.

  • Like 3
Diverjer Enthusiast

Diverjer

Posted
Posted

Seems like lifting the truck bed up could be a wiring nightmare between all the lights and towing package??  I have access to a lift.  Also truck sets high enough a person could drop the tank without lift.  But that is all from just looking, never have changed a fuel pump in truck when it was located in tank.  Don't know why they came up with that bright idea, but I am old school. 

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Diverjer said:

Seems like lifting the truck bed up could be a wiring nightmare between all the lights and towing package??  I have access to a lift.  Also truck sets high enough a person could drop the tank without lift.  But that is all from just looking, never have changed a fuel pump in truck when it was located in tank.  Don't know why they came up with that bright idea, but I am old school. 

 

In my experience, just about everything I've ever come across with fuel injection has had the fuel pump located inside the gas tank. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
lundimpact1775 Enthusiast

lundimpact1775

Posted
Posted

Fuel acts as coolant to keep the pump from burning up, as I understand it. They say those who run tanks empty all the time burn pumps faster, but I have no data to back that up just info from old mechanics who have been there many times. 

 

I cut an access hole in my old 1997, never caused any problems or premature rust even up here in MN and WI, and was much simpler than box removal or tank drop. If I had to do it with a newer truck I'd probably just drop the tank but it depends, my 2500 has a 36 gallon tank and if it failed while full I know it's a total nightmare to try to empty these without just consuming the fuel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...