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Changing my own oil.

GN2018
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GN2018 Enthusiast

GN2018

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16 minutes ago, PunchT37 said:

Got it done. Now, i`ll send a sample off to Blackstone to figure out my oci. Iv`e been stuck at 3000 miles my whole life. Maybe it`s time for a change? Still won`t be 7500 to 10,000. I`m much too hard headed for that. Been in the mechanic business for too long. Have built too many engines that we tear up. On purpose, of course.😉

I like every 5000 miles.  Easy to track and less than the synthetic oils are rated for and right between the 3000 and 7500 that are generally recommended from oil change places and the owners manual respectively.  

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txab
txab

No need, I've got enough for all      

customboss
customboss

That's really me. 

CamGTP
CamGTP

I'm pretty skinny still, so I just slide right under the truck to do oil changes. Grab a pan and a 15mm wrench. Drain the filter first, slap the new one in there and drain the oil. Out and done in les

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Jay P Enthusiast

Jay P

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If have any kind of warranty and you do your own oil changes make sure you keep receipts for the oil and filter. If you need warranty work and don't have them some dealers will void your warranty. 

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

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4 hours ago, GN2018 said:

Curious about how you all get under the truck.  Can you just crawl under or do you need to lift it.  Do you use ramps or jack it up and use jack stands?  When I lived in a neighborhood with curbs, I could drive up on the curb and, using a piece of cardboard, slide under my car.  That was a long time ago when I was a lot more flexible. :)

 

Plastic Rhino Ramps for me. Light and easy. :) 

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

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3 hours ago, GN2018 said:

I like every 5000 miles.  Easy to track and less than the synthetic oils are rated for and right between the 3000 and 7500 that are generally recommended from oil change places and the owners manual respectively.  

 

That mileage as an oil rating is marketing, not science. The OLM ditto. 

 

Just looked it up in THE book. Says use the OLM as it is "programed' to calculate oil life based on usage factors (unlisted). Then says if it is reset accidently 3,000 miles. Both normal and severe schedules say 7,500 miles. Now that should ring a few bells. I have 185,000 miles on mine and no matter how I use it it is programed for 7,500 miles. They thing not getting caught in a lie is the same as telling the truth. :banghead: I change my boutique oil at 5K. 

 

I found out recently that the OLM in my new car can be user set anywhere between 4K Km (2500 miles) to 20K Km (12K miles). Depending what market it is sold in and what regulations are in play the oil recommendations run from 0W20 to 20W50. 

 

 

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BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

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The materials alone at an autozone for me would cost over 50 bucks, then my time, patience, body pains from rolling around on pavement and disposal of discarded oil and filter. I find adding an extra 50-60 bucks to have it done for me and also overlook the entire truck while on the lift is worth the added cost.

 

All i see here in my older age is a ton of aggravation for saving a minimal amount of cash.🤣

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KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

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6 minutes ago, BIGDOGx said:

The materials alone at an autozone for me would cost over 50 bucks, then my time, patience, body pains from rolling around on pavement and disposal of discarded oil and filter. I find adding an extra 50-60 bucks to have it done for me and also overlook the entire truck while on the lift is worth the added cost.

 

All i see here in my older age is a ton of aggravation for saving a minimal amount of cash.🤣

It’s about 20$ with coupons and discounts. It’s not like I didn’t check out the shop before I drove into the bay. So for 20$ they can do it. My wife’s car is about twice a year. My truck one and a half. The Honda three times. The Acura one. It’s not like I throw money around I’m getting up there about to turn 69. It’s not fun anymore. Now the transmission fluid in the Honda is so easy to do I’ll do it. Only because it takes 3 drain and fills to do it right. I did the brake switch under the dash only because they wanted me to leave the truck. It was pretty easy. So I still do some maintenance. Oil change they can do it. 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

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Posted (edited)

I'm pretty skinny still, so I just slide right under the truck to do oil changes. Grab a pan and a 15mm wrench. Drain the filter first, slap the new one in there and drain the oil. Out and done in less than 10min.

 

Driving up on a 2x4 and then onto a 4x4 wood block on the drivers side does give a lot more room, I do that sometimes.

 

I use my quick jacks for cars and if I'm doing a rotate at the same time. Expensive to buy at first but they are so worth it in the long run.

Edited by CamGTP
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johnnyquick Enthusiast

johnnyquick

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Posted (edited)
On 11/13/2024 at 4:57 AM, 64BAwagon said:

Its one of the easier oil changes. The filter is in the open and the drain plug is very accessible. All you need is a PF63 and 8 qts of 0W20 D1G3. 

 

Dont use 0W20 unless you want your truck to puke early. And dont worry about warranty they will NEVER honor one amyway.

Edited by johnnyquick
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KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

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18 minutes ago, 64BAwagon said:

I dont typically waiver from the grade specified by the OEM.  Its 10 yrs old, warranty isnt in the picture

 

I haven’t read anywhere that going with the recommend oil change intervals or their oil recommendations. Have lowered or impacted the reputation of any of the leading longevity leaders. Like Honda, Toyota, Mazda etc. I would argue that most drivers of those brands aren’t considered enthusiasts for the most part. They probably don’t have a clue about maintenance other than the light on the dashboard. Probably are repeat customers of those brands. I’ve read it’s not advisable to change the oil viscosity due to small passages in the engine. The people who have some knowledge go with the recommendation of severe duty with their maintenance. Probably a cover your butt for the manufacturer if there’s a failure. My experience with the dealership in general is all but one recommended no more than 5K oil changes. Toyota at least the three years from 2017-2020 I drove the Camry. We’re adamant for 10k oil changes. That may have changed with the turbo engines they’re using now. There’s another little trick they throw out there on the sticker they put on the windshield. Time it’s usually 6 months. But what it comes down to you’re not going to have a oil related problem with your vehicle. If it fails. It bad parts or bad design. 

64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

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When I get a new (used or new)  vehicle I will typically run a 5k change and do an analysis to confirm I am not stretching it. My 2005 Duramax LLY would go 12k with Delvac syn 5W40 and still have a good safe margin. I have done hundreds of oil analysis on the fleet I used to manage. 

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

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55 minutes ago, 64BAwagon said:

I dont typically waiver from the grade specified by the OEM.  Its 10 yrs old, warranty isnt in the picture

 

 

You? Likely not. I can't see you buying a boutique oil. But it's possible and still have a 0W20 label on the bottle. Up or down a grade. 

 

Here are some HTHS viscosities for a few 0W20 oils: 

 

Warren Oil Kirkland 2.6 cP

EvoSyn 2.91 cP

Red Line HP 2.9 cP

MPT30K 3.2 cP

Valvoline Advanced 2.7 cP

AMSOIL SS 2.67 cP

 

Spec for a W20 is a HTHS with a minimum 2.6 cP. For a W30 that number is 2.9 cP

 

3 oils on this list meet the W30 requirement for HTHS. The number that matters to the bore/rings. The fastest wearing part of a motor.

 

I have a 15 year old Buick in the garage with 50K on the clock. Years matter less than miles. 

 

5W30 has a 100 C viscosity range 9.3 to 12.5 cSt 

 

Warren Oil Kirkland Signature 5W30 has a HTHS at 100C of only 6.9 cP or that of a W16/W20

While HPL No-VII number is 10 cSt. (KRL)

Imagine what the 0W20 does on that test :crackup:

 

SAE chart grading is "Horseshoe" close and leaves allot of room for marketing manipulation. 

 

As most don't and even refuse to be transparent I choose an oil that under the worse possible lab scenario will still meet the specs in all categories, runs clean and runs cool. Thus *W20 oils when used are cherry picked from a very short list to meet the minimum W30 HTHS spec after KLR shear down. I even pad that number when dealing with GDI's leaking pig puke high pressure fuel pumps dumping fuel into the oil at an aggreges rate. 

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customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

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58 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

As most don't and even refuse to be transparent

You don't get competition do you ?  When someone is selling an average oil they don't say; HEY BUY OUR OIL ITS AVERAGE!       In your odd little world you want proprietary info gifted to you like I gifted oil analysis info to you. Then you blather it around like you discovered it.

 

That's my only rub with you that at your core you are a troll. 

 

MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, CamGTP said:

I'm pretty skinny still, so I just slide right under the truck to do oil changes. Grab a pan and a 15mm wrench. Drain the filter first, slap the new one in there and drain the oil. Out and done in less than 10min.

 

Driving up on a 2x4 and then onto a 4x4 wood block on the drivers side does give a lot more room, I do that sometimes.

 

I use my quick jacks for cars and if I'm doing a rotate at the same time. Expensive to buy at first but they are so worth it in the long run.

 

Filter first?? Changed oil a thousand times on a hundred different vehicles over the last 50 years. First time I've ever heard that one! 

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