Jump to content

Is your GMT-900 using oil  

1,555 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine is an 07 with the 5.3 and AFM. I use Mobil 1 or Penzoil Synthetic oil with a Wix oil filter. I changed my oil this weekend with 5000 miles on it. When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

I used about 2 quarts in about 5000 miles.

Posted

We have 17 yes votes but only 6 posting. If you voted yes please post with what is going on with your truck or SUV. What engine you have and if you have done a consumption test.

Posted
When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

Just curious if anyone knows how accurate this is? I am sure there is a certain amount that does not drain out of the truck. Also did you drain the oil out of the filter into the bottle?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I've had to put 2 qts in it since december. appx. 6k miles in that time span. Truck has 12k miles on it. 2010, 5.3

 

it "runs out" and I start getting valve tick.

 

very angry about this, but I don't know what I can do about it other than take it to the dealer and hear the "it aint doin it right now" story.

Edited by darkfox1
Posted

I know, I know, this isn't a truck but I do own it and have noticed this past 1.5yrs it has been using oil between oil changes.

It's a 06 Uplander w/ the 3.9L VVT and it uses .75 quarts between oil changes and I'm using Castrol.

Most be a common issue with these new motors that GM is putting out.

Ring end gap and cylinder wall to piston tolerances must be getting pretty sloppy.

 

So far my truck only has 6000 miles on it with the 6.2 and doesn't use any oil with 1 oil change on the books, and I used Mobil1 SYNC.

Posted
I've had to put 2 qts in it since december. appx. 6k miles in that time span. Truck has 12k miles on it. 2010, 5.3

 

it "runs out" and I start getting valve tick.

 

very angry about this, but I don't know what I can do about it other than take it to the dealer and hear the "it aint doin it right now" story.

 

 

Thats what you need to do. Take it to the dealer and ask for a consumption test. If they refuse contact Chevy customer service.

Posted

Hey Ryan, should we add the year model to the listed poll questions? Or will you be able to pull it from the posts? Seem like the '07 is worse than '08. Wow! ...... 30%

Posted

08 Sierra 5.3 Alum block 33,000 miles- when i changed the oil it was full to the top line on the dipstick, 2500 miles later it is half way down the "ok" area. so i am guessing that is about 1/2 qt of oil used. probably normal for any engine. use valvoline full synthetic

Posted
When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

Just curious if anyone knows how accurate this is? I am sure there is a certain amount that does not drain out of the truck. Also did you drain the oil out of the filter into the bottle?

 

 

I don't know if I would trust this.. What about oil in the filter? Through out the engine? I'd go by before and after on the dip stick.

Posted (edited)
Thats what you need to do. Take it to the dealer and ask for a consumption test. If they refuse contact Chevy customer service.

 

I tried to go today. After waiting in line 20 minutes to get into the service bay I decided to turn around.

 

what is wrong with GM lately? too many chinese parts? I used to never have this problem.

 

tbh at this point I'm just trying to get my project car running good enough to drive it. I feel like my truck isn't reliable anymore. A new vehicle should not drink oil like an alcoholic on a free tab.

Edited by darkfox1
Posted (edited)

I would like to weigh in just a little bit. Just for data and documentation.

 

2008 Suburban LTZ with LC9 engine (5.3 AFM Aluminum block), 88,000 miles now

Mobil 1 synthetic oil since very first oil change. Change oil when DIC says to (6000-8000 miles).

Paid mechanic (NOT dealer) to do oil changes (only one guy has ever changed the oil until the last one). He NEVER told me that the oil level was low going into a change so I didn't think I had an oil consumption issue. Suddenly at about 72,000 miles the ZERO OIL PRESSURE warning came on and scared me to death. I've been driving for 32 years and I have NEVER EVER had that happen before.

Since 72,000, I've been adding a qt of synthetic about every 3-4,000 miles. That, too, has never happened with ANY vehicle I have ever owned. So this really bothered me and I started keeping up with it.

I also have the lifter click at start up for about 5-10 seconds. Idles fine, smooth.

I get 15 mpg city and 18 highway.

Tailpipe has a jet-black dusty ring around it. Sounds to me like if this is an AFM issue, the oil pushing into thsoe cylinders and slowly cooking off on its way out of the vehicle. I NEVER see smoke. Not at startup, idle or run. Someone told me that synthetic won't smoke. Not sure if that is true or not.

 

And since I'm just talking now, I wanted an HD pickup with the diesel to tow my boat. Wife said she didn't want to hear the diesel. Now I'm divorced and wish to heck I hadn't listened to her. I kept the boat. Gave her up.

 

Have read a few places on here, "I love my truck, but I wish it didn't burn oil DITTO! I don't care what ANYONE says, a 2008 model truck that cost $55,000 should NOT burn a qt of oil ever 3,000 miles. If GM says that's normal, then that's part of why GM has been in bad trouble. My 1999 K1500 Suburban ran to 180,000 miles and never used a drop of oil. The tranny gave out after pulling that 6,000 lb boat and trailer. But never used oil. My 1994 C1500 Suburban ran to 150,000 miles and never used a drop of oil. This one disappoints me but my loyalty is to GM so I guess I'm going to stay put.

Edited by RyanbabZ71
  • Like 1
Posted
Tailpipe has a jet-black dusty ring around it.

 

Dont believe this is AFM related as my 2000 always had a "dirty" tailpipe. Never used oil either but did have the startup tick.

Posted (edited)
Mine is an 07 with the 5.3 and AFM. I use Mobil 1 or Penzoil Synthetic oil with a Wix oil filter. I changed my oil this weekend with 5000 miles on it. When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

I used about 2 quarts in about 5000 miles.

 

No offense, but I don't think this is an accurate method to measure if your engine is using oil between changes. Been changing oil for friends and family for 30 years, and you NEVER get as much oil out of the drain pan/old filter as you put new oil back in to fill it. I often drain cars that hold 5.0 quarts into an empty gallon (4.0 quarts) container, and these vehicles are not using a quart of oil between changes, because it was still full on the dipstick before being drained. So, in my experience, I'd say that only new oil added to show 'full' on the dipstick should count as the amount of oil used between changes.

Edited by Maverick Z71
Posted

it does not matter how much a vehicle costs. All vehicles are subject to mechanical failure, no matter how much money is dumped into R&D and testing and all that jazz.

Posted

I have a 09 GMC 6.0l and change the oil when the monitor tells me to, usually about 5000-6000 miles. I always check the dipstick after oil is changed and before I bring it back in and the level usually about 1/4 to 1/2 quart low. Not bad for 5000+ miles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...