Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got the 6'' basic kit as money was an issue for me and the new coil overs, to me, wasn't worth the extra cost. The rear shocks do provide a quality ride so I did go that route.

I was definitely in the same boat, then the new version fox shocks came out and I was just curious. I probably will pick up the fox tears being they are fairly inexpensive

 

Love your trucks color btw, had a burgundy 01 Silverado and. Red jewel 11' 2ss camaro. Almost went with it again but I needed to break the trend!

Posted

I've got the Zone 4.5" lift on order, and am sure that it is the size and stance I want. But if I wanted to increase the height in the future, is there a way to easily upgrade from the 4.5 to the 6.5in? Would it just be a larger block and drop for the front that re-uses all the other parts? Or would an entire new kit be needed?

Posted

Turned out great! The wheels look good. They look like they have a pretty deep lip for a 20x9 and positive offset. I might have to switch out my fuel nutz for a set.

Thanks, it seemed like it took me forever to find what I wanted. I like a basic 5 to 6 spoke wheel with some type of lip. I bought the wheels site unseen and am pretty happy with the choice.

Posted

After the lift I put on this past weekend I'm thinking I would like 1"-1 1/2" inches added to the rear. I was debating on doing the Add-A-Leaf with Zone but was unsure if it would stiffen the ride in the rear. Any suggestions?

Posted

I was definitely in the same boat, then the new version fox shocks came out and I was just curious. I probably will pick up the fox tears being they are fairly inexpensive

Love your trucks color btw, had a burgundy 01 Silverado and. Red jewel 11' 2ss camaro. Almost went with it again but I needed to break the trend!

Thanks I truly love the color also. This is the first non black vehicle I've owned and went to buy another black truck until seeing this one on the lot and immediately knew I had to have it.
Posted

Has anyone done the 6.5" zone or another 6" kit with the bottom spacer left installed from a rcx level? Wondering if i can keep my angles manageable and run the 6.5" the spacer on bottom the aal in the rear and 37x12.50 on my factory 20s

Posted

Sweet man. Anytime you get a chance i know how it goes.

 

Sorry it took so long man we have been busy as hell...

post-143838-0-23758800-1461179535_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-55932900-1461179330_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-32160300-1461179541_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-55932900-1461179330_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-23758800-1461179535_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-32160300-1461179541_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-55932900-1461179330_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-23758800-1461179535_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-32160300-1461179541_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-55932900-1461179330_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-23758800-1461179535_thumb.jpg

post-143838-0-32160300-1461179541_thumb.jpg

Posted

awesome man that's the 6" right? going to do spacers in the rear to even it out? if so what size?

Posted (edited)

Ok finally got through this one after weeks on my phone, screenshot a bunch of pics but still a couple questions.

 

Im down to the Zone 6.5 and the Fabtech gen II/procomp 6 looking to fit 325/20 or 35x12.5x20. With these which would I be able to use with stock 20 wheels at first and change out later. Obviously theres a huge price difference between zone and fabtech but is there any noticeable difference quality wise. Last question, I think the only one of these that retains the factory track width is the fabtech but ive read the turning radius becomes even worse, any expertise with that?

 

Thanks for all the help, sad it came to an end after 153 pages

 

Edit: Also what am I looking to spend install wise in orange county, los angeles, CA (recommended shops if from this area)

Edited by Bpun2016
Posted

 

Thanks for all the info in this thread. I ended up with the following setup.

 

4.5" Zone suspension lift

20x9 (+10 offset) Hostile Hammered Wheels

33x12.5/20 Toyo Open Country MTs

1.5" Wheel spacers in the rear

 

Before:

Just the lift without wheels (looks lower in the rear because I had all my factory parts and crap in the bed weighing it down):

 

After:

 

 

Your truck looks great. In the pic with the factory wheels, did you have the 1.5 inch rear spacers on? Also, does the 4.5 inch Zone still leave a slight bit of rake?

Posted (edited)

37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT and 22x12-44 Fuel Maverick D260s

what size lift are you going with? Edited by Gonzalez210
Posted (edited)

Your truck looks great. In the pic with the factory wheels, did you have the 1.5 inch rear spacers on? Also, does the 4.5 inch Zone still leave a slight bit of rake?

 

Thanks... Are you talking about the 1.5" spacers I added to the wheel or the factory 1.5" block since your mentioning the rake?

 

There is no rake with the 4.5" zone. I'm thinking about going the add-a-leaf route in case I ever haul anything I'm not a fan of the squatting look. The way it sits without anything it seems perfectly level from front to back.

Edited by randomposter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...