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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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txhunter21 Enthusiast

txhunter21

Posted
Posted

whats the offset?

 

 

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To be honest man i don't even remember its been over a year since i had them swapped , the receipt says 17x6 and the bolt pattern is 6-139.7 . i should know but I'm not 100% I'm guessing its +6

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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GerryLP Enthusiast

GerryLP

Posted
Posted

I ordered the 3/4" spacers (should yield close to 1-1/2" lift in the front) today. I am like many of my compatriots in here where we appreciate a nice rake on the vehicle. :D Completely leveled trucks looks cool, but I prefer achieving that with a load in the cargo bed or while towing a vehicle. This website rocks!

 

GerryLP :cool:

jm77 Enthusiast

jm77

Posted
Posted

I just removed a Readylift Leveling kit front and rear 2.25" kit to install a BDS 4" kit. Any reason I shouldn't sell them on Ebay? Is it safe to sell someone a used leveling kit with less than 5k miles and a year installed?

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

I just removed a Readylift Leveling kit front and rear 2.25" kit to install a BDS 4" kit. Any reason I shouldn't sell them on Ebay? Is it safe to sell someone a used leveling kit with less than 5k miles and a year installed?

I don't see why not. As long as the item isn't damaged and is still in good working condition then all you have to do is label it as "used". Only thing is you may have a few people asking why you took it off but that's it. Should sell without much issue.

 

 

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Mikejonce Enthusiast

Mikejonce

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

 

I'm running the stock Chrome 20"s with crappy Good Year LS2 275/55/20 tires. I also have a 2.25" ReadyLift level. I want to swap my tires out but keep hearing different advice about how big I can safely go. Two different guys at the tire shop told me two different things. One guy said I could run all the way up to a 305/55/20...the other guy said 275/60/20 was as big as I could go. Does anybody know what the truth is here? I don't want rubbing.

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bfel816 Enthusiast

bfel816

Posted
Posted

I guess I'm one of the few people that has 17" rims I'm wanting to run either a 285/70 or a 295/70 with a 17x9 rim what is the most offset I can do with a 2" level.The wheels im looking at come in +25 +18 and 0 offset.I can deal with a slight rub but don't want to trim.

Trza Enthusiast

Trza

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I'm running the stock Chrome 20"s with crappy Good Year LS2 275/55/20 tires. I also have a 2.25" ReadyLift level. I want to swap my tires out but keep hearing different advice about how big I can safely go. Two different guys at the tire shop told me two different things. One guy said I could run all the way up to a 305/55/20...the other guy said 275/60/20 was as big as I could go. Does anybody know what the truth is here? I don't want rubbing.

I've got a 2.25 inch Pro Comp level and I'm running 305/55/20's. No rub with a +12 offset. Edited by Trza
Mikejonce Enthusiast

Mikejonce

Posted
Posted

I've got a 2.25 inch Pro Comp level and I'm running 305/55/20's. No rub with a +12 offset.

How do you account for offset? Or how do you "offset" the rim? I'm running the factory chrome 20"s. I think they're a 20x9. Is there an offset on these rims? Is that what you're referring to? I thought you had to buy the rims with the offset already there, i.e. do the factory rims already have offsets? I don't think they do. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I'd love to run a 305/55/20, but from what I've been reading, I can't do that without an offset rim. Are you suggesting I buy rims that are offset so that I can run the tire I want? If so, I probably can't do that. Already spent an arm and a leg upgrading to 20" factory wheels from the stock 17's. I need to keep the rims that I've got. Can I still run a 305/55/20 with the rims I have?

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

How do you account for offset? Or how do you "offset" the rim? I'm running the factory chrome 20"s. I think they're a 20x9. Is there an offset on these rims? Is that what you're referring to? I thought you had to buy the rims with the offset already there, i.e. do the factory rims already have offsets? I don't think they do. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I'd love to run a 305/55/20, but from what I've been reading, I can't do that without an offset rim. Are you suggesting I buy rims that are offset so that I can run the tire I want? If so, I probably can't do that. Already spent an arm and a leg upgrading to 20" factory wheels from the stock 17's. I need to keep the rims that I've got. Can I still run a 305/55/20 with the rims I have?

Wheel offset is just the distance from the hub mounting surface to the wheel centerline. Factory wheels are generally in the positive. +20 to +30 . The smaller offset number you go and into the negative which gives more lip, the less tire you can run without rubbing. On factory wheels like yours you should be able to do the 305s with maybe minor rubbing on the wheel liner. Many people are running that size. Depends on which tire as well as each manufacturer tires are a bit different in size.
hutch08 Enthusiast

hutch08

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

I'm running the stock Chrome 20"s with crappy Good Year LS2 275/55/20 tires. I also have a 2.25" ReadyLift level. I want to swap my tires out but keep hearing different advice about how big I can safely go. Two different guys at the tire shop told me two different things. One guy said I could run all the way up to a 305/55/20...the other guy said 275/60/20 was as big as I could go. Does anybody know what the truth is here? I don't want rubbing.

I have a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, running a 2.5" Rough Country level and Toyo AT2 Xtreme 295/55r20 (33x12) tires on the factory 20" wheels. I know the factory AT and Denali wheels are both +27mm offset, it's stamped right in the back. I'm assuming the Chevy 20's are also the same. Saying the MAX tire size you can run is kind of irrelevant because a 305 Mud Terrain is going to be wider than a 305 Highway Terrain, and no brand is exactly the same size.

What I can tell you for sure, is on stock +27mm offset wheels you WILL rub the control arms with a 305/55r20 (33x12.5) wide tire. Everyone is always concerned about rubbing fender liners but that's plastic that can be easily manipulated. The control arms and sway bar are however a little less forgiving if you're rubbing up against them.

 

Here's some pictures of my truck:

 

20150212_164601_zpskmdv7pbs.jpg

 

20150208_100453_zpsrhdqxaee.jpg

 

20150207_212520_zpslsj03gez.jpg

 

20150207_212234_zpsd8dqtydw.jpg

 

You can see where the sidewall rubs the UCA and sway bar at full lock. I know of two other forum members with the exact same tire on factory 20's with the same issue so I know I'm not alone.

 

Seeing that the 295's rub, I guarantee the 305's will... It's the wheel offset thats killing it, many forum members are able to run the 305's with no clearance issues by simply running an aftermarket wheel with +12 or +18mm offset.

 

For sure you'll clear 275/60r20's (33x11), I've even heard of guys running 275/65r20's (34x11) but they might slightly rub the inner fender liner that can be zip-tied back. I'd be willing to bet that a 285/60r20 (33x11.5) wide tire would be the ideal size to clear the fenders and control arms, but pretty sure that size is only available in the Goodyear Duratrac's.

 

Another thing to consider if you care about fuel mileage is tire weight. Initially I thought I could fit 295's or 305's and only decided on the 295's because their 14lbs lighter per tire when comparing the 33x12 to the 33x12.5.

 

I'm going to try and add some 8mm front wheel spacers to simulate a +19 offset wheel and see if it's enough to push my tires out far enough to clear the UCA's.

 

Crawl under your truck and see what you're wheel offset is, it should actually say "20x9 +27mm Offset" or it might be one big number like "20x9JXIS27", either way knowing your offset is crucial to figuring out "what fits or not".

Edited by hutch08
  • Like 4
Mikejonce Enthusiast

Mikejonce

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, running a 2.5" Rough Country level and Toyo AT2 Xtreme 295/55r20 (33x12) tires on the factory 20" wheels. I know the factory AT and Denali wheels are both +27mm offset, it's stamped right in the back. I'm assuming the Chevy 20's are also the same. Saying the MAX tire size you can run is kind of irrelevant because a 305 Mud Terrain is going to be wider than a 305 Highway Terrain, and no brand is exactly the same size.

What I can tell you for sure, is on stock +27mm offset wheels you WILL rub the control arms with a 305/55r20 (33x12.5) wide tire. Everyone is always concerned about rubbing fender liners but that's plastic that can be easily manipulated. The control arms and sway bar are however a little less forgiving if you're rubbing up against them.

 

Here's some pictures of my truck:

 

20150212_164601_zpskmdv7pbs.jpg

 

20150208_100453_zpsrhdqxaee.jpg

 

20150207_212520_zpslsj03gez.jpg

 

20150207_212234_zpsd8dqtydw.jpg

 

You can see where the sidewall rubs the UCA and sway bar at full lock. I know of two other forum members with the exact same tire on factory 20's with the same issue so I know I'm not alone.

 

Seeing that the 295's rub, I guarantee the 305's will... It's the wheel offset thats killing it, many forum members are able to run the 305's with no clearance issues by simply running an aftermarket wheel with +12 or +18mm offset.

 

For sure you'll clear 275/60r20's (33x11), I've even heard of guys running 275/65r20's (34x11) but they might slightly rub the inner fender liner that can be zip-tied back. I'd be willing to bet that a 285/60r20 (33x11.5) wide tire would be the ideal size to clear the fenders and control arms, but pretty sure that size is only available in the Goodyear Duratrac's.

 

Another thing to consider if you care about fuel mileage is tire weight. Initially I thought I could fit 295's or 305's and only decided on the 295's because their 14lbs lighter per tire when comparing the 33x12 to the 33x12.5.

 

I'm going to try and add some 8mm front wheel spacers to simulate a +19 offset wheel and see if it's enough to push my tires out far enough to clear the UCA's.

 

Crawl under your truck and see what you're wheel offset is, it should actually say "20x9 +27mm Offset" or it might be one big number like "20x9JXIS27", either way knowing your offset is crucial to figuring out "what fits or not".

Awesome reply hutch08! I REALLY APPRECIATE IT! And yeah, my wheel says 20x9j and then Offset 27. Let the shopping begin!

  • Like 1
hutch08 Enthusiast

hutch08

Posted
Posted

Awesome reply hutch08! I REALLY APPRECIATE IT! And yeah, my wheel says 20x9j and then Offset 27. Let the shopping begin!

No worries, a lot of people just say "don't worry about it, and just deal with it" but I'm too big of a perfectionist if something isn't "right" HaHa.

Maybe if you have a good tire shop they'll test fit a front tire and see what kind of clearance you have at full lock... Good luck and let us know how you make out!

Mikejonce Enthusiast

Mikejonce

Posted
Posted

No worries, a lot of people just say "don't worry about it, and just deal with it" but I'm too big of a perfectionist if something isn't "right" HaHa.

Maybe if you have a good tire shop they'll test fit a front tire and see what kind of clearance you have at full lock... Good luck and let us know how you make out!

 

You're so right! I DO WORRY! But yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with a 275/60/20. That'll give me some size and cushion, AND won't cost me an extra $100 per tire! LOL! Not going to get any new tires yet. The cruddy ones I've got now are brand new. No sense in swapping them out until I've fully run through them; but I'll keep you posted on when the newbies go on. For my money, ratings wise the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus' look the best. "H" speed rating with a 80k mile warranty. All for just $185 per tire. That's a good deal for a HIGHLY rated tire.

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