Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Buckeye920 Enthusiast

Buckeye920

Posted
Posted

Well I ordered at set of Master Craft Courser AXT in 285/70 17 to see if they will fit... I got them for super cheap. Hopefully they will fit.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

Got them on today, they look great will post pics later. a very slight rub on the wheel well on the backside middle of the front tire, very minor trimming will fix it, theres no rub on the front fender side. tires stick out almost an inch outside fenders

Good to hear. Is it the liner only that rubs? I was hoping to stick with the stock rims and a small spacer but it sounds like that may not be enough. Maybe a 1.5 body lift will help. Hmmm... looks great thougb, but need more pics [emoji106] [emoji106]
txhunter21 Enthusiast

txhunter21

Posted
Posted

Good to hear. Is it the liner only that rubs? I was hoping to stick with the stock rims and a small spacer but it sounds like that may not be enough. Maybe a 1.5 body lift will help. Hmmm... looks great thougb, but need more pics [emoji106] [emoji106]

yes the backside of the liner rubs but i cut that out with a razor blade and it doesn't rub now. and yes you will need an offset , it won't fit with stock rims ur front end will need to come up at least 2"

txhunter21 Enthusiast

txhunter21

Posted
Posted

Very nice![emoji106]

Thanks, they aren't lying when they said these are 34.25" tires, up close they are very big and they wouldn't fit an older model without a 4" lift

14x4 Enthusiast

14x4

Posted
Posted

yes the backside of the liner rubs but i cut that out with a razor blade and it doesn't rub now. and yes you will need an offset , it won't fit with stock rims ur front end will need to come up at least 2"

295/70r18 won't fit on stock wheels? What do you mean come up 2 inches in front? As in a level? Or are you talking offset?
tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted

Diameter wise 295/70/17 will likely be fine it will be offset that will be the question. 295/70/17 is roughly 33.3-33.5"x12ishx17. Again like most 33-34" tires the thickness will be the issue. I suggest +12-0-12 offset.

 

I think AZ has his 295/55/20s not rubbing with +19 offset on fuel Mavericks. I've since switched my choice to method mesh at 0 offset. Should he good to go on either 285/70/17 or 295/70/17

 

Yeah you're spot on with the offset for that size tire. 295/70/17 has been done on here, with KMC addicts (+18?)

 

AZ has 295/55/20 on fuel mavericks with +1 offset. You will be fine with 295/70/17 on 0 offset

tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted

295/70r18 won't fit on stock wheels? What do you mean come up 2 inches in front? As in a level? Or are you talking offset?

 

stock offset and that size will rub UCA/sway bar. This has been a pretty common topic on the debate of 295/70 in a 17" vs 18" wheel.

 

I'd really like to go that size in an 18" wheel if I could confirm offset. But then again - every tire is manufactured at a slightly different spec as well. frustation kicking in lol

14x4 Enthusiast

14x4

Posted
Posted

 

stock offset and that size will rub UCA/sway bar. This has been a pretty common topic on the debate of 295/70 in a 17" vs 18" wheel.

 

I'd really like to go that size in an 18" wheel if I could confirm offset. But then again - every tire is manufactured at a slightly different spec as well. frustation kicking in lol

That's weird. Gmccoop is running 35x12.5 on factory 18's (with a 3" level) and allegedly isn't rubbing the uca or sway bar. A 295/70r18 isn't any bigger.

 

What leveling kit and what are your rubber's width etc?

3" fabtech and I'm running 35.12.50.18 BFG All Terrain KO2s 0efb08f61a40b006f02eb2040ed0b805.jpg<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk<br/>
txhunter21 Enthusiast

txhunter21

Posted
Posted

295/70r18 won't fit on stock wheels? What do you mean come up 2 inches in front? As in a level? Or are you talking offset?

 

 

 

stock offset and that size will rub UCA/sway bar. This has been a pretty common topic on the debate of 295/70 in a 17" vs 18" wheel.

 

I'd really like to go that size in an 18" wheel if I could confirm offset. But then again - every tire is manufactured at a slightly different spec as well. frustation kicking in lol

 

Tanner you're correct it sometimes depends on the tire and the how thick it is. The guy told me that if i went above anything more than +6 offset that my tires would rub the sway bar and i believe it. and yes at least 2" up front to clear 33's and the picture above hes running a 3" but i still dk how he doesnt rub unless the tread isnt very knobby. an 0 offset is the best way to go in my opinion

jvanwinkle2 Enthusiast

jvanwinkle2

Posted
Posted

Hey does anyone know if 295 60 20 toyo open country at 2 extreme would fit on a 14 sierra with 2 inch front level kit on stock 20s???Thanks

You will need a 2.5" level. That is what I have tire size and level. I do get a noise once in a while. Still haven't figured it out yet. But it barely rubs somewhere. Not too worried about it. No marks that I have found yet.

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

Tanner you're correct it sometimes depends on the tire and the how thick it is. The guy told me that if i went above anything more than +6 offset that my tires would rub the sway bar and i believe it. and yes at least 2" up front to clear 33's and the picture above hes running a 3" but i still dk how he doesnt rub unless the tread isnt very knobby. an 0 offset is the best way to go in my opinion

I've got a level in box still that needs to go on, I was hoping a 1/2"s spacer would be enough but that would put me around +18 ish. may just have to get new wheels...[emoji2] I was hoping to stick with the stockers as I like them.
tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's weird. Gmccoop is running 35x12.5 on factory 18's (with a 3" level) and allegedly isn't rubbing the uca or sway bar. A 295/70r18 isn't any bigger.

 

3" fabtech and I'm running 35.12.50.18 BFG All Terrain KO2s 0efb08f61a40b006f02eb2040ed0b805.jpg<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk<br/>

 

 

I know its hard to say for sure it's really trial by fire. There's a lot of people with 3" levels as well - running 35x12.5 on stock wheels with no rub ahah. Sometimes it doesn't make sense unless everyone is just saying what we want to hear.

 

There's a lot of factors, level, tires, offset, alignment etc. but I tend to just stick with the "gaurenteed" fitment specs for the population on here.

Edited by tanner709

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 479 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...