Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That's a 35". I'm about to do 275/65-20 on stock wheels and that's a 34" and I'm expecting rub even though most posts on here say they fit.

I am planning on going with a 275/65/20 as well, but if a 295/65/20 would fit I might prefer to go that way.

Posted

Has anybody tried to run a 295/65/20 (stock wheels) on a 2" or 2.5" level?

I don't think that'll work. Some of the 2500HD guys have done it with a 2-3" level and some trimming (on stock rims), but I've yet to see it on a 1500. The biggest I've seen is 295/60/20 or 285/65/20 on stock rims with a 2.5" lift/level....and I think they even had to trim a little bit. A few guys have even had to trim just a little (or pull the liner back with zip ties) just to run 275/65/20 with a level.

Posted

Any rubbing with this setup??? I've been looking at the same wheels and tires and have a motofab 1.5in leveling kit already installed. Thanks

 

Nope no rubbing. The wheels come in 0 offset and 23 I believe. Make sure you get the correct ones.

 

Kulhand

Posted

Here's mine so far. RC 2.5" level/Lift 20" XD mavericks w/ 275/60/20 KO2's removed assist steps HIDS on front w/ LED fogs LED reverse/license plate lights tinted windows. Need to figure out what I'm going to do as far as a sub and shell probably be done/DSC_0283_zpso6iax4jt.jpg]\

DSC_0284_zpsjjtascnb.jpg

Those are fuel mavericks. Not XD

 

sent from tapashit

Posted (edited)

2" Motofab billet spacer level.

 

Front fender before was at 36". After they sit at 38.5. Exactly what I wanted.

 

More pics/info in my build thread!

 

uICEtaMl.jpg

 

Build thread link down there! \/

Edited by tootall87
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, I need some help on what tire size to run. 15' silverado crew cab. I have a 2.5 RC kit on its way in the mail. I plan i running a 20x9 +1 offset Fuel Maverick wheel. I want the lower offset so the tires sticks out a little bit. I like the look IMO. My question is what tires should I run if thats the wheel I go with? Been going back and forth between 295/55/20 and the 305/55/20, or should I just go with a 33x12.5? The two tires Ive decided on are Toyo MT/s or the Nitto Trail Grapplers MT. What do you guys think would be a perfect fit. If its possible I want to go with the larger tire but I dont want to deal with the rubbing.

Edited by Yoffer
Posted

Hey guys, I need some help on what tire size to run. 15' silverado crew cab. I have a 2.5 RC kit on its way in the mail. I plan i running a 20x9 +1 offset Fuel Maverick wheel. I want the lower offset so the tires sticks out a little bit. I like the look IMO. My question is what tires should I run if thats the wheel I go with? Been going back and forth between 295/55/20 and the 305/55/20, or should I just go with a 33x12.5? The two tires Ive decided on are Toyo MT/s or the Nitto Trail Grapplers MT. What do you guys think would be a perfect fit. If its possible I want to go with the larger tire but I dont want to deal with the rubbing.

 

I don't have much to add right now about the size, but I would recommend the Toyos over the Nittos.

Posted

Hey guys, I need some help on what tire size to run. 15' silverado crew cab. I have a 2.5 RC kit on its way in the mail. I plan i running a 20x9 +1 offset Fuel Maverick wheel. I want the lower offset so the tires sticks out a little bit. I like the look IMO. My question is what tires should I run if thats the wheel I go with? Been going back and forth between 295/55/20 and the 305/55/20, or should I just go with a 33x12.5? The two tires Ive decided on are Toyo MT/s or the Nitto Trail Grapplers MT. What do you guys think would be a perfect fit. If its possible I want to go with the larger tire but I dont want to deal with the rubbing.

33x12.5

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

 

Nope no rubbing. The wheels come in 0 offset and 23 I believe. Make sure you get the correct ones.

 

Kulhand

I'm guessing those are 20x9 but are they 0 offset or +18? Any pics down the side and do they stick out?

Posted (edited)

I'm guessing those are 20x9 but are they 0 offset or +18? Any pics down the side and do they stick out?

Yes the are 20x9 and +18. They stick out ever so slightly.

 

Side shot

Edited by kuulhand
Posted

 

I don't have much to add right now about the size, but I would recommend the Toyos over the Nittos.

 

 

Thanks for the help guys. I think Im leaning towards the Toyos as well. Ive read their tread life is way better than the nitto's.

 

Id go with a traditional 33" tire. as far as tires, I prefer toyos tread pattern... but nitto and toyo are the same company

Posted

Newbie here.

 

Just got RC 2.5 inch installed on the 2015 Silverado Crew Cab. I didn't quite get the lift, per my before and after measurements, that I expected. My front increased from 36 1/4" to 38 5/8".....so a 2 3/8" increase. Not the 2.5" as expected. The back increased from 38 3/4" to 39 5/8"....so a 7/8" increase, not the 1" as expected.

 

Is this common....from reading prior posts it seems most others get the full 2.5" in the front and 1" in the back. I made sure on my measurements I am measuring in the same spots on the truck and parked in the same spot. Not big differences....but annoying nonetheless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 457 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...