Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

FWIW guys I put the '16 magneride kit on my 17 Denali last night, everything fit perfect front & back. When I called RC to ask why the kit wouldn't work on a '17 all they would say is "the hardware doesn't fit"....clearly this is not the case. I work at a GMC dealership so I'll have the guys check it every now and then but it doesn't appear that the front end is sitting at any kind of weird angles, and the ride is awesome - zero noticeable difference from stock. Now my 275/65r20s are going on today!

Edited by frzrbrnbass
  • Like 1
Posted

FWIW guys I put the '16 magneride kit on my 17 Denali last night, everything fit perfect front & back. When I called RC to ask why the kit wouldn't work on a '17 all they would say is "the hardware doesn't fit"....clearly this is not the case. I work at a GMC dealership so I'll have the guys check it every now and then but it doesn't appear that the front end is sitting at any kind of weird angles, and the ride is awesome - zero noticeable difference from stock. Now my 275/65r20s are going on today!

This is what they said to me as well ! They said with the top spacer in that there is some issue with the electric power steering at full extension or something. Might bend the steering linkage ?

 

Was the top spacer plastic or metal ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

This is what they said to me as well ! They said with the top spacer in that there is some issue with the electric power steering at full extension or something. Might bend the steering linkage ?

 

Was the top spacer plastic or metal ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The spacer was metal. I'll have the guys put it on the alignment rack today and take a look at everything, try to get some pictures at different steering angles too.

Posted

Ok, just got off the phone with Chuck @ rough country & finally got an answer that seems to make some sense.

 

The 2017's come with stamped steel control arms vs cast aluminum in the 16's. The stamped steel ones are larger than the cast ones.

 

To get the kit to work for a 17 we need to use a preload spacer rather than the top strut mount spacer to avoid the control arm hitting the steering linkage arm at full extension / full turn.

 

Using a preload spacer should maintain the stock geometry better than a top mount spacer which is why they chose this route I guess.

Although it isn't officially offered, he said if we call in they can sell you the 16 kit but swap the top spacer for a preload.

 

Now the question is, can we tear these Magneride struts apart without messing them up ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

This is the problem ... only change was the stamped control arms .. now they say you can't use the top spacer & they don't have a kit for the rear .. just 2" level kit for the front ... frustrating to say the least.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

FWIW guys I put the '16 magneride kit on my 17 Denali last night, everything fit perfect front & back. When I called RC to ask why the kit wouldn't work on a '17 all they would say is "the hardware doesn't fit"....clearly this is not the case. I work at a GMC dealership so I'll have the guys check it every now and then but it doesn't appear that the front end is sitting at any kind of weird angles, and the ride is awesome - zero noticeable difference from stock. Now my 275/65r20s are going on today!

 

 

This is what they said to me as well ! They said with the top spacer in that there is some issue with the electric power steering at full extension or something. Might bend the steering linkage ?

 

Was the top spacer plastic or metal ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

The spacer was metal. I'll have the guys put it on the alignment rack today and take a look at everything, try to get some pictures at different steering angles too.

 

 

Awesome !! Thanks man !! I kinda think RC haven't taken the time to see if it works on the 17 so they are just playing it safe and saying it doesn't

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Ok, just got off the phone with Chuck @ rough country & finally got an answer that seems to make some sense.

 

The 2017's come with stamped steel control arms vs cast aluminum in the 16's. The stamped steel ones are larger than the cast ones.

 

To get the kit to work for a 17 we need to use a preload spacer rather than the top strut mount spacer to avoid the control arm hitting the steering linkage arm at full extension / full turn.

 

Using a preload spacer should maintain the stock geometry better than a top mount spacer which is why they chose this route I guess.

Although it isn't officially offered, he said if we call in they can sell you the 16 kit but swap the top spacer for a preload.

 

Now the question is, can we tear these Magneride struts apart without messing them up ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

What is wrong with this kit?

http://www.roughcountry.com/gmc-leveling-lift-kit-1311.html

 

Hardly seems worth taking risks with a $70K truck for the sake of an extra half-inch of lift. Use this one, which is approved for the '17 and call it good.

Posted

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is wrong with this kit?

http://www.roughcountry.com/gmc-leveling-lift-kit-1311.html

 

Hardly seems worth taking risks with a $70K truck for the sake of an extra half-inch of lift. Use this one, which is approved for the '17 and call it good.

That's just the front (level)

 

I want the whole thing up 2"

 

What I actually have done since I couldn't really find exactly what I wanted is,

 

I ordered the kit that you linked above, I also have a shop where i fabbed up some 3" blocks and bought some square u bolts.

 

I'm swapping the stock 1.25" block for a 3" which will give me 1.75" of lift in the rear & that kit you linked will give me 2" in the front which is perfect for me. I am making my own Magneride extension brackets ( if I still have issues with the ride quality I'm going to get the dealer to just "re-zero" the sensors at the new height and do away with the brackets.

 

Front went in after work last night and weather permitting rears will be done today.

 

 

02ee40dffce93aaccbc778f7c1b4fea7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Just use some 3/16 rod stock from Lowe's to extend Magneride sensor link. It will look factory and you will not have to deal with those cheesey brackets.

Cost less than $3

Posted

Do they just press into the plastic fitting ?

 

I just found out that GM can do a magneride "zero" calibration (teaches the computer where normal ride height is) as another option.

 

I did cheesy brackets for now and they are working great ! Ride is perfect (just need to get alignment tomorrow)

 

I put the rough country 2" lift in the front & custom made my own blocks for the rear

 

Here's a photo of my custom made 3" block (gives 1.75" of lift)

de9c04f3427c720d28c168ddddd2407f.jpg

 

I didn't want a level I still wanted a little bit of rake.

 

Needs a wash but I'm very happy with it ! 0c6419607a41a0c049dc2d506c96020b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Do they just press into the plastic fitting ?

 

I just found out that GM can do a magneride "zero" calibration (teaches the computer where normal ride height is) as another option.

 

I did cheesy brackets for now and they are working great ! Ride is perfect (just need to get alignment tomorrow)

 

I put the rough country 2" lift in the front & custom made my own blocks for the rear

 

Here's a photo of my custom made 3" block (gives 1.75" of lift)

de9c04f3427c720d28c168ddddd2407f.jpg

 

I didn't want a level I still wanted a little bit of rake.

 

Needs a wash but I'm very happy with it ! 0c6419607a41a0c049dc2d506c96020b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

stance looks great, now you just need to upgrade your tires to help fill the gap a bit! :)

Posted

stance looks great, now you just need to upgrade your tires to help fill the gap a bit! :)

Yup they are looking into It for me .. options are pretty limited on the stock 22" rims which I do like and am keeping

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

b48270f3f3f7423290f2e49456e5fa02.jpg02499f667a05bf2c128ab87ca77b9ecc.jpg

 

Here's my '17 with a 2.5" front Motofab and a 3" block in the rear. Got a good little rake to it but damn it looks good!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Do you have any side pictures with the 2.5 front and 3.0 back ? I've got a DC with a 2.0 front and 2,0 block in back now and I have 2.0 of rake. I'm adding the top spacer for 2.5 and can't decide between 2.5 or 3.0 block in rear. 2.0 of rake seems to work well for towing. How much rake do you have on yours ? Thanks

Posted

Finally got some new tires after leveling. LT275/70/17 Mickey Thompson Deegan 38s.

 

Only pic I have on the phone right now. Top was original, middle is how it sits now, bottom was a little photoshop. Going to get tint next and I might paint the wheels a gunmetal color and wanted to see how it looked. Color match bumper would be nice too but my wife isn't going to sign off on that.

 

2aa615a10fda97f17a98816e88b1d3ac.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's good photo shopping, what program is that?

Posted

That's good photo shopping, what program is that?

I actually did that on Bluebeam. They're just colored shapes with the opacity reduced.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I actually did that on Bluebeam. They're just colored shapes with the opacity reduced.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll look into that, paint match bumper look sick!

post-155210-0-15350600-1502916706_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-15350600-1502916706_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-15350600-1502916706_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-15350600-1502916706_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...