Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm having the ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit installed and know that I need an alignment after that is completed.  If I decide at a later time to replace the stock block in the back and raise it a bit, is an alignment needed for just raising the back?   I'm thinking "no", but am not certain...

Posted
I'm having the ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit installed and know that I need an alignment after that is completed.  If I decide at a later time to replace the stock block in the back and raise it a bit, is an alignment needed for just raising the back?   I'm thinking "no", but am not certain...
No need to align the back

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
14 hours ago, TRG said:

Nice!  Did you leave the stock block in the back and if so, do you know what the size of that stock block is?

I left the stock block.

Posted
56 minutes ago, huntr1117 said:

No need to align the back

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Thanks.  Do you or anyone else happen to know if a diff drop is needed for a 2.25" level?  From what I've read, it seems that is really only required when you get up to 3" level, but looking for some additional opinions.     

Posted
Thanks.  Do you or anyone else happen to know if a diff drop is needed for a 2.25" level?  From what I've read, it seems that is really only required when you get up to 3" level, but looking for some additional opinions.     
I have the 2.25 Pro comp. It's the exact same as the Ready lift kit but cheaper. Same materials, same install. Top 2 inch spacer, bottom 1/4 spacer. No diff drop required.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
Thanks.  Do you or anyone else happen to know if a diff drop is needed for a 2.25" level?  From what I've read, it seems that is really only required when you get up to 3" level, but looking for some additional opinions.     


It doesn’t hurt and can solve some high speed vibration and cv binding issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
56 minutes ago, Bushleaguechew said:

 


It doesn’t hurt and can solve some high speed vibration and cv binding issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks - what are folks using for diff drop kits that have yielded good results ?  I see a bunch out on Ebay, but that's about it...

Posted

Having my dealership install a 2.25" Procomp leveling kit in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to getting rid of the rake as I don't tow much at all.

Posted (edited)

Just got the ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit installed and replaced the the stamped steel UCAs with the ReadyLift tubular UCAs.  Stock block in the back.  Stock wheels/rubber (Bridgestone Dueler A/T 285/45/22s)

 

 

 

5ab45160858b5_Thetruck.thumb.jpg.7bdb5cf0a08aef3febaa4827b7c28183.jpg

Edited by TRG
Posted

I just purchased the Rancho Quicklift leveling struts for my 2018 Silverado. I opened up the boxes and noticed that on both struts there are wear marks that have completely worn through the the powder coating and bare metal is showing on both springs. One strut has three areas  where it rubbed through and the other has two on it.

 

Is this a normal issue or is this something that I should bring up to fourwheelparts.com where I bought the struts from? I don't see this affecting the performance of the struts, but having bare metal concerns me for the longevity of the part.

Posted
I just purchased the Rancho Quicklift leveling struts for my 2018 Silverado. I opened up the boxes and noticed that on both struts there are wear marks that have completely worn through the the powder coating and bare metal is showing on both springs. One strut has three areas  where it rubbed through and the other has two on it.
 
Is this a normal issue or is this something that I should bring up to fourwheelparts.com where I bought the struts from? I don't see this affecting the performance of the struts, but having bare metal concerns me for the longevity of the part.


I would say send it back and have them send you a new pair


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Thanks - what are folks using for diff drop kits that have yielded good results ?  I see a bunch out on Ebay, but that's about it...


I believe rough country sells one, might have to contact them directly I don’t believe they offer it online. But you’ll be getting the same things as those eBay kits offer. Four donut shaped spacers and some hardware.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, Bushleaguechew said:

 


I believe rough country sells one, might have to contact them directly I don’t believe they offer it online. But you’ll be getting the same things as those eBay kits offer. Four donut shaped spacers and some hardware.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ya - I didn't see anything online for them, but will give them a call.  Thanks!

Posted (edited)

IMG_20180321_205646_01.thumb.jpg.39e58386457a0e106d542074ecf13a68.jpgBought my 2017 Sierra SLT All Terrain in January. Installed a 2.5" motofab level and 33x12.5 Open Country RTs on the stock 20s. Rubbing upper control arms at about 25 degree wheel turn. Ordered BORA 1.25" wheel spacers. Hoping this will correct my rub!

Edited by MHardiman90
Add picture
Posted

So what’s the deal .. are people doing a 2” or so in the front and adding 1”’to the rear (meaning a new 2” block). I say that because isn’t that already a 1” block in the rear?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 617 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...