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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
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TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted

I'm having the ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit installed and know that I need an alignment after that is completed.  If I decide at a later time to replace the stock block in the back and raise it a bit, is an alignment needed for just raising the back?   I'm thinking "no", but am not certain...

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted
I'm having the ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit installed and know that I need an alignment after that is completed.  If I decide at a later time to replace the stock block in the back and raise it a bit, is an alignment needed for just raising the back?   I'm thinking "no", but am not certain...
No need to align the back

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allblack16 Enthusiast

allblack16

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, TRG said:

Nice!  Did you leave the stock block in the back and if so, do you know what the size of that stock block is?

I left the stock block.

TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted
56 minutes ago, huntr1117 said:

No need to align the back

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Thanks.  Do you or anyone else happen to know if a diff drop is needed for a 2.25" level?  From what I've read, it seems that is really only required when you get up to 3" level, but looking for some additional opinions.     

huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted
Thanks.  Do you or anyone else happen to know if a diff drop is needed for a 2.25" level?  From what I've read, it seems that is really only required when you get up to 3" level, but looking for some additional opinions.     
I have the 2.25 Pro comp. It's the exact same as the Ready lift kit but cheaper. Same materials, same install. Top 2 inch spacer, bottom 1/4 spacer. No diff drop required.

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Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted
Thanks.  Do you or anyone else happen to know if a diff drop is needed for a 2.25" level?  From what I've read, it seems that is really only required when you get up to 3" level, but looking for some additional opinions.     


It doesn’t hurt and can solve some high speed vibration and cv binding issues.


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TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted
56 minutes ago, Bushleaguechew said:

 


It doesn’t hurt and can solve some high speed vibration and cv binding issues.


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Thanks - what are folks using for diff drop kits that have yielded good results ?  I see a bunch out on Ebay, but that's about it...

17SLE Enthusiast

17SLE

Posted
Posted

Having my dealership install a 2.25" Procomp leveling kit in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to getting rid of the rake as I don't tow much at all.

TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just got the ReadyLift 2.25" leveling kit installed and replaced the the stamped steel UCAs with the ReadyLift tubular UCAs.  Stock block in the back.  Stock wheels/rubber (Bridgestone Dueler A/T 285/45/22s)

 

 

 

5ab45160858b5_Thetruck.thumb.jpg.7bdb5cf0a08aef3febaa4827b7c28183.jpg

Edited by TRG
zachsieb Enthusiast

zachsieb

Posted
Posted

I just purchased the Rancho Quicklift leveling struts for my 2018 Silverado. I opened up the boxes and noticed that on both struts there are wear marks that have completely worn through the the powder coating and bare metal is showing on both springs. One strut has three areas  where it rubbed through and the other has two on it.

 

Is this a normal issue or is this something that I should bring up to fourwheelparts.com where I bought the struts from? I don't see this affecting the performance of the struts, but having bare metal concerns me for the longevity of the part.

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
I just purchased the Rancho Quicklift leveling struts for my 2018 Silverado. I opened up the boxes and noticed that on both struts there are wear marks that have completely worn through the the powder coating and bare metal is showing on both springs. One strut has three areas  where it rubbed through and the other has two on it.
 
Is this a normal issue or is this something that I should bring up to fourwheelparts.com where I bought the struts from? I don't see this affecting the performance of the struts, but having bare metal concerns me for the longevity of the part.


I would say send it back and have them send you a new pair


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Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted
Thanks - what are folks using for diff drop kits that have yielded good results ?  I see a bunch out on Ebay, but that's about it...


I believe rough country sells one, might have to contact them directly I don’t believe they offer it online. But you’ll be getting the same things as those eBay kits offer. Four donut shaped spacers and some hardware.


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TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Bushleaguechew said:

 


I believe rough country sells one, might have to contact them directly I don’t believe they offer it online. But you’ll be getting the same things as those eBay kits offer. Four donut shaped spacers and some hardware.


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Ya - I didn't see anything online for them, but will give them a call.  Thanks!

MHardiman90 Enthusiast

MHardiman90

Posted
Posted (edited)

IMG_20180321_205646_01.thumb.jpg.39e58386457a0e106d542074ecf13a68.jpgBought my 2017 Sierra SLT All Terrain in January. Installed a 2.5" motofab level and 33x12.5 Open Country RTs on the stock 20s. Rubbing upper control arms at about 25 degree wheel turn. Ordered BORA 1.25" wheel spacers. Hoping this will correct my rub!

Edited by MHardiman90
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Aaron1085 Senior Enthusiast

Aaron1085

Posted
Posted

So what’s the deal .. are people doing a 2” or so in the front and adding 1”’to the rear (meaning a new 2” block). I say that because isn’t that already a 1” block in the rear?


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