Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Eibach Pro Truck kit - springs and shocks 

love the ride and look - sits perfectly level

 

33BFDA66-E2A0-4177-9EFF-0305A3A431E6.jpeg

FEBB5D28-BABC-4131-AE6D-D6F8060A996F.jpeg

Posted
On 5/23/2019 at 11:53 AM, Pivot said:

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

 

Well I just ordered the 2-1/2" Front and 2" rear from MotoFab.

Hopefully install goes ok and no rubbing.

If anyone has any pointers on install, other than what most videos show, let me know as it would be greatly appreciated.

Posted
 
Well I just ordered the 2-1/2" Front and 2" rear from MotoFab.
Hopefully install goes ok and no rubbing.
If anyone has any pointers on install, other than what most videos show, let me know as it would be greatly appreciated.
Thats what i have, along with readylift ucas. Have had no issuesbbb60b3b8e4666ce2886e03eb79fc444.jpg08595da76a64308f4eefe2c949680161.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, mrskiff said:

Thats what i have, along with readylift ucas. Have had no issuesbbb60b3b8e4666ce2886e03eb79fc444.jpg08595da76a64308f4eefe2c949680161.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
 

I didn’t get UCAs, I guess I am hoping that I’m ok with the stock stamped ones. Truck looks nice!

Posted
On ‎5‎/‎24‎/‎2019 at 1:22 PM, aleeuw said:

 

Well I just ordered the 2-1/2" Front and 2" rear from MotoFab.

Hopefully install goes ok and no rubbing.

If anyone has any pointers on install, other than what most videos show, let me know as it would be greatly appreciated.

What wheels/tires do you have? I have an 18' with a Motofab 2.5" up front and 2" rear block. I also have 20" wheels and 275 width tires, I get some UCA rubbing at full lock. I didn't have any rubbing at all when I had my previous 1.5" level, so I can only assume the extra inch caused the rubbing..

Posted
6 hours ago, mistermcgoo said:

What wheels/tires do you have? I have an 18' with a Motofab 2.5" up front and 2" rear block. I also have 20" wheels and 275 width tires, I get some UCA rubbing at full lock. I didn't have any rubbing at all when I had my previous 1.5" level, so I can only assume the extra inch caused the rubbing..

I have the stock 20” wheels and tires. I should have the kit this week and going to try to find time this weekend to install. I will report back with the outcome. 

Posted

I have basically the same setup that you intend to install on stock 20” with 285x60R20 Toto Open Country RTs and had to add RC 1/4” wheel spacers to stop the rubbing on UCAs and sway bar. 

7EEF8A3D-ADBA-4887-A23D-8D7AEBF0D5A3.jpeg

Posted
8 hours ago, Slick66 said:

I have basically the same setup that you intend to install on stock 20” with 285x60R20 Toto Open Country RTs and had to add RC 1/4” wheel spacers to stop the rubbing on UCAs and sway bar.

 

Are they from Kansas?  :P

Posted
13 hours ago, Slick66 said:

I have basically the same setup that you intend to install on stock 20” with 285x60R20 Toto Open Country RTs and had to add RC 1/4” wheel spacers to stop the rubbing on UCAs and sway bar. 

7EEF8A3D-ADBA-4887-A23D-8D7AEBF0D5A3.jpeg

I'm still learing the offsets and trying to figure tires and rims. Assuming stock rims and guessing you have +27 offset, that tire moved the inner sidewall exactly .24 " closer to suspension and frame. I might be wrong and others with more experience please chime in, but... If you moved to a +20mm offset, I don't think you would need the spacer. A +20 offset would move the outer sidewall .08 away from suspension with that tire. You did increase the total diameter of the tire though significantly and that could present issues. Total tire diameter would increase from 100.2 up to 105.1  Truck looks nice with tires and level. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Pivot said:

I'm still learing the offsets and trying to figure tires and rims. Assuming stock rims and guessing you have +27 offset, that tire moved the inner sidewall exactly .24 " closer to suspension and frame. I might be wrong and others with more experience please chime in, but... If you moved to a +20mm offset, I don't think you would need the spacer. A +20 offset would move the outer sidewall .08 away from suspension with that tire. You did increase the total diameter of the tire though significantly and that could present issues. Total tire diameter would increase from 100.2 up to 105.1  Truck looks nice with tires and level. 

Ah, if only someone would make replica wheels with more accommodating offsets. Many like the stock wheels, especially the snowflakes. 

 

And your math works, but tire manufacturers aren't quite that precise. One brand 285 might be 283,whereas another might be 286. Then there's the difference in how aggressive the sidewall lugs are. Lots of variables. 

Edited by MBSierra17
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Does anybody know what the differences are between a top mount and bottom mount spacer to level?

 

The top mounts seem to be more expensive and may require cutting the length of the top shocks bolts from what I can tell, so are there any positives to going with the more expensive top mounts?

Posted
On 5/28/2019 at 7:54 AM, Slick66 said:

I have basically the same setup that you intend to install on stock 20” with 285x60R20 Toto Open Country RTs and had to add RC 1/4” wheel spacers to stop the rubbing on UCAs and sway bar. 

7EEF8A3D-ADBA-4887-A23D-8D7AEBF0D5A3.jpeg

What bug deflector do you have?  That is the style I am looking for and have the same color truck.

Posted

Got the MotoFab 2.5” front/ 2” rear installed last weekend. Install went pretty good, only about 4 hours complete. No rubbing, seems to ride same as stock. Thanks to those who provided input!

C2D14226-C7E9-4567-90BD-C6D8DF2F70D9.jpeg

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,075 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...