Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, spenpet said:

when they talk about rubbing...they are talking about upgraded tires, never talking about stock size tires...a level will give you more room not less...so if you are stock specs, you should never have to worry about rubbing...

 

my set up is a RC 2" front level, rear stock, stock rims as i mentioned the tires i have...i really like the set up...i don't need anything crazy aggressive for the amount of off road use i do...

 

as far as bilstien's go, i am considering replacing my stock shocks (front and rears) with them whenever i need to replace them...there are dozens and dozens of guys on here that recommend them...they seem to be probably the best value of upgraded shocks before you start spending some serious cash...

I get that, I'm not worried about rubbing issues with the stock tires. I'm more focused on if I'll have issues once I decide to replace them and get a bigger tire. You said even with the 2" level that you had no rubbing issues with the 285-65s? If not, that may be what I end up going with.

 

I'm not needing anything crazy aggressive either. I've had 2 sets of the general grabber AT2s now on my ford and have gotten 55k-60k out of them and like the way they look. Now to see if they make them bigger than what I've previously bought.

 

I love my bilsteins, my only dilemma is whether to leave the original Ranchos on the rear and go bilstein on the front to save some money, or just replace all 4 with bilstein. Guess a lot of that has to do with what the wife will allow me spend, guess I better start saving up the brownie points!

Edited by calane29
Posted

Went with the Fox 2.0s and couldn't be happier with them. They ride awesome and leveled the truck out well. 

 

image.png.590493fae8bafec2b9d5fae9c5d16bf2.png

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Stormydanielsz71 said:

Running a 2018 Silverado 2.5 MotoFab leveling kit w/ready lift upper control arms on 20x9 Moto Metal Rims and 33’’ nittos. No rubbing at full lock.

F246BDC3-9523-45B9-A29A-38770E80B35F.jpeg

Did you use the top strut mount?  Can you get me a measurement of how big the spacer is?

Posted
Did you use the top strut mount?  Can you get me a measurement of how big the spacer is?
I have the same kit. The spacer is around 1.66 inches thick. I had 2 kits so I took a pic of one67cc53af892d5df2d21aa1b17b5deaed.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, mrskiff said:

I have the same kit. The spacer is around 1.66 inches thick. I had 2 kits so I took a pic of one67cc53af892d5df2d21aa1b17b5deaed.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
 

Sweet thanks man, I’ve got my left over superlift spacer from my 3.5” kit, and it’s about the same dam size as Moto’s 2.5” lol. 

Posted (edited)

Quick question..

 

 I'm thinking about putting a 2" RC level on my 18" LT. I have replica GMC 20x9's that have +27 offset and running 275/55's. I've seen people commenting stating "minor" rubbing with a 2" level and running 275/60/20 tires. 55 isn't too far from 60 it seems (correct me if I'm wrong). Should I worry about rubbing the arms or sway bar? Here's a link to the wheels I'm running, I believe the offset is pretty close to stock..

 

https://www.wheelpros.com/product/wheels/pr150/?attribute_pa_finish=gloss-black-with-clearcoat

Edited by mistermcgoo
Posted

I am running 285/60 R20 Toyo Open Country RT with a 2 1/2 leveling kit and I had to add the RC 1/4 spacers behind the stock snowflake wheels on my 2018 GMC to stop the rubbing on both the UC Arm and the sway bar. 

E20CFD5C-F8A6-408C-B33A-7C21FC2E0217.jpeg

Posted
1 hour ago, mistermcgoo said:

Quick question..

 

 I'm thinking about putting a 2" RC level on my 18" LT. I have replica GMC 20x9's that have +27 offset and running 275/55's. I've seen people commenting stating "minor" rubbing with a 2" level and running 275/60/20 tires. 55 isn't too far from 60 it seems (correct me if I'm wrong). Should I worry about rubbing the arms or sway bar? Here's a link to the wheels I'm running, I believe the offset is pretty close to stock..

 

https://www.wheelpros.com/product/wheels/pr150/?attribute_pa_finish=gloss-black-with-clearcoat

Yes you will rub, the problem is the stamped control arms are flat and wide.  Any tire size larger than stock will have some degree of rubbing on the control arm with a leveling kit.

Posted
3 minutes ago, pewterliftedz said:

Yes you will rub, the problem is the stamped control arms are flat and wide.  Any tire size larger than stock will have some degree of rubbing on the control arm with a leveling kit.

 

 275/55/20 is a "stock" tire size. It's the same size that comes stock on any off the lot Silverado's (non Z71) with factory 20" wheels..

Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, mistermcgoo said:

 

 275/55/20 is a "stock" tire size. It's the same size that comes stock on any off the lot Silverado's (non Z71) with factory 20" wheels..

Oh I thought you were asking about the 275/60 rubbing, 275/55 is the factory size and will be fine.

Edited by pewterliftedz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...