Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
 

It’s compatible but will still rub with anything larger than 275/55r20. Even 275/60r20 will rub. I’ve tried it already. Bought them through amazon so I was able to return but still cost me labor. (This is with the 2.25 readylift level)

 

A real lift is the way to go, but they don’t make the CST lift for 2wd, so here is where I landed:

 

1.5 inch motofab level

275/60r20 tires. Rubbed slightly on my sway bar, but my sway bar was offset to one side for some reason. Removed and recentered and it’s all good now. Shouldn’t have that problem, unless you get unlock like I did. The level being smaller allows that size tire without rubbing UCA’s. It isn’t perfectly level but it’s good enough for me and I’m happy with it.

 

0b161f46350142932a093ac3faa9a393.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

CST does have leveling coil overs but require new UCA’s to be installed too which is a better ride than spacer blocks and replaces your front struts and coils at the same time. This is the same setup I went with before I decided to just do the full lift. The same lift “will” work on your 2wd truck too but has parts you won’t need too which you could sell to someone that would give top dollar for exceptional quality, just a thought.

 

 

Sent from above

Posted
1 hour ago, wepiii said:

 

It’s compatible but will still rub with anything larger than 275/55r20. Even 275/60r20 will rub. I’ve tried it already. Bought them through amazon so I was able to return but still cost me labor. (This is with the 2.25 readylift level)

 

A real lift is the way to go, but they don’t make the CST lift for 2wd, so here is where I landed:

 

1.5 inch motofab level

275/60r20 tires. Rubbed slightly on my sway bar, but my sway bar was offset to one side for some reason. Removed and recentered and it’s all good now. Shouldn’t have that problem, unless you get unlock like I did. The level being smaller allows that size tire without rubbing UCA’s. It isn’t perfectly level but it’s good enough for me and I’m happy with it.

 

0b161f46350142932a093ac3faa9a393.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

would you mind posting some more pictures of your truck? it looks great and seems to be pretty close to level

Posted
6 hours ago, wepiii said:

 

It’s compatible but will still rub with anything larger than 275/55r20. Even 275/60r20 will rub. I’ve tried it already. Bought them through amazon so I was able to return but still cost me labor. (This is with the 2.25 readylift level)

 

A real lift is the way to go, but they don’t make the CST lift for 2wd, so here is where I landed:

 

1.5 inch motofab level

275/60r20 tires. Rubbed slightly on my sway bar, but my sway bar was offset to one side for some reason. Removed and recentered and it’s all good now. Shouldn’t have that problem, unless you get unlock like I did. The level being smaller allows that size tire without rubbing UCA’s. It isn’t perfectly level but it’s good enough for me and I’m happy with it.

 

0b161f46350142932a093ac3faa9a393.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you changed the level kit to a 1.5" rather than 2.25" and it solved the rubbing on the UCA problem? Is your kit a top strut or bottom strut spacer?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/22/2019 at 7:13 PM, wepiii said:

 


Unfortunately this just isn’t correct. I know it should be, because on paper they aren’t wider, but since they are taller, a different part of the sidewall is contacting the UCA’s. I’m guessing you don’t have the stamped steel control arms. I made the mistake of believing what I read on this site, and on my 18, with stamped steel arms, I rub on factory wheels with 275/60r20. I’d love it if I didn’t, but I do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

question on this.. if your rubbing on the factory 20's wouldnt a 1" wheel spacer give you more than ample clearance and give you a minor wider stance? also if so would that not allow you to go to a wider tire as well ? just curious.

 

Edited by no12nv
Posted (edited)
On 3/8/2019 at 2:41 PM, mrskiff said:

Changed my setup a bit.
Motofab 2.5" up front
Motofab 2.25" blocks in rear
Readylift UCA's
305/65r18 BFG KO2's
18x9 -12 Black Iron Wheels
Zone fender trim plates to fit the tires. Fenders measure 40.5" up front and 41.5" in rear. Need to wash truck and get some better pictures.430db37d067c71dbcaf89b385e1921cd.jpgebf0e3caffe942d13affc36ffff84ce8.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

i cant find motofab 2.25 rears? were did you get them ?all i find is 2"  wonder what mine would be like on stock 22s

. thanks

 

Edited by no12nv
Posted
On 3/6/2019 at 6:52 AM, krychrt said:

I went with the ReadyLift 2.25 up front and swapped the rear 1.25 for the ready lift 2.25 based on the recommendation of those above. Came out good I think. If anything I would have liked a little higher in the front but matched with the new KO2’s its like a new truck. Ride quality seems unchanged so far as well.

 

 

IMG_2262.jpgIMG_2269.jpgIMG_2265.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

i see what you are saying in the front.. how much rake/height diff do you have now as it sits?

Posted
1 hour ago, no12nv said:

question on this.. if your rubbing on the factory 20's wouldnt a 1" wheel spacer give you more than ample clearance and give you a minor wider stance? also if so would that not allow you to go to a wider tire as well ? just curious.

 

1.75 is the smallest you can go without having to trim your factory studs which I just don’t wanf to do.

Posted
i cant find motofab 2.25 rears? were did you get them ?all i find is 2"  wonder what mine would be like on stock 22s
. thanks
 
They are on their website. 1 inch rear lift. So 2.25 inch block


Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Posted
i see what you are saying in the front.. how much rake/height diff do you have now as it sits?


I would say about an 1” lower in the front at the most maybe less. I will measure for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Forgive me if this has been discussed, but I have an ‘18 Z71with 18x8.5” stock wheels. I see a lot of guys talking about rubbing with leveling kits but they’re running the 20” wheels. So if I were to put the 5100 ride height adjustable on the front, which height would get me as level as possible? 1.26” or the 1.85”? Also, once I have those installed, would I have any rubbing issues on ucas or anywhere else? 

Posted
On 4/10/2019 at 9:51 PM, calane29 said:

Forgive me if this has been discussed, but I have an ‘18 Z71with 18x8.5” stock wheels. I see a lot of guys talking about rubbing with leveling kits but they’re running the 20” wheels. So if I were to put the 5100 ride height adjustable on the front, which height would get me as level as possible? 1.26” or the 1.85”? Also, once I have those installed, would I have any rubbing issues on ucas or anywhere else? 

no clue.  what size tires are you asking?  

 

i have stock 18" rims, run 285/65 KO2s and no rubbing on a level...

Posted
53 minutes ago, spenpet said:

no clue.  what size tires are you asking?  

 

i have stock 18" rims, run 285/65 KO2s and no rubbing on a level...

For now just the stock 265-65-18, once these tires are worn down I'll replace them with some all terrains but not sure of size just yet. Definitely want something that looks a little more beefy than the stocks. Looking at your profile I like the look of what you're running. What level did you use? I installed the bilsteins on my ford just over a year ago and loved them, so I'm leaning toward putting a set on this truck as well. 

Posted
37 minutes ago, calane29 said:

For now just the stock 265-65-18, once these tires are worn down I'll replace them with some all terrains but not sure of size just yet. Definitely want something that looks a little more beefy than the stocks. Looking at your profile I like the look of what you're running. What level did you use? I installed the bilsteins on my ford just over a year ago and loved them, so I'm leaning toward putting a set on this truck as well. 

when they talk about rubbing...they are talking about upgraded tires, never talking about stock size tires...a level will give you more room not less...so if you are stock specs, you should never have to worry about rubbing...

 

my set up is a RC 2" front level, rear stock, stock rims as i mentioned the tires i have...i really like the set up...i don't need anything crazy aggressive for the amount of off road use i do...

 

as far as bilstien's go, i am considering replacing my stock shocks (front and rears) with them whenever i need to replace them...there are dozens and dozens of guys on here that recommend them...they seem to be probably the best value of upgraded shocks before you start spending some serious cash...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 625 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...