Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/10/2019 at 11:41 AM, RCD said:

Hello all!

 

First of all, thanks to all of you who contribute to this site.  It is great!

 

I've read through this thread and I am left with a few specific questions regarding my 2018 Z71 (stamped steel UCA's).

  1. If I go with the TGC 2" leveling kit, do I still need to swap out my UCA's?  (my backup plan is the 2.25 Readylift kit with UCA's)
  2. Assuming the TGC 2" kit is "safe" for my 2018 stamped steel UCA's, can I fit 285/65/r18 BFG KO2's on my stock wheels without any rubbing (I have seen several different opinions about this setup).  I'm hoping that the narrow section width BFG's will not rub my UCA's or sway bar.  I'm aware that I'll have to tie back the felt, etc.
  3. What size KO2 will fit on my bone stock truck if I tie back the felt and decide to leave the suspension alone?

Thanks in advance!

 

Regards,

 

RCD

this site let alone this thread there is a lot to read...I have '16 Z71, BFG KO2 285/65 R18 (stock rims) and a RC 2" level, no trimming or tie backs were needed and no rubbing...I eventually got a new bumper, and only then did i need to do any sort of wheel well modification...but it was because the felt stuck out, not because the tires...I dont have any experience with a TC level, but would be safe to assume it would be equivalent to the RC.

Posted

I usually don’t mess with the level or lifting. My 14 had too much rake. I removed the blocks in the back. It amounted to about 1-1/2 inch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have a level kit on my 14, my current summer wheels are 18x9 +12 mm. I'm looking to get 18x9 -12 mm so I can get a 4.5" lift installed. All the results on custom offsets says it'll fit with minimal to no trimming and no rubbing. 

 

Anyone else running -12 mm?

Posted
I have a level kit on my 14, my current summer wheels are 18x9 +12 mm. I'm looking to get 18x9 -12 mm so I can get a 4.5" lift installed. All the results on custom offsets says it'll fit with minimal to no trimming and no rubbing. 

 

Anyone else running -12 mm?

Yep im running 18x9 -12 with 305/65r18 on a 2.5 inche level. Imo its the perfect amount of poke. I did the zone trim plates for trimming. Sorry for the bad pic 4feb0cf5ff35b9f7daccb1278adf94ae.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted
I have a level kit on my 14, my current summer wheels are 18x9 +12 mm. I'm looking to get 18x9 -12 mm so I can get a 4.5" lift installed. All the results on custom offsets says it'll fit with minimal to no trimming and no rubbing. 
 
Anyone else running -12 mm?


What 4.5” lift are you looking at installing?


Sent from above
Posted
Zone
Zone will increase your track width 1.5" in the front so take that into consideration. Ive had zone on my last 2 trucks. Great products


Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Posted
Was curious if someone could point me in the direction of some 1.5 inch rear blocks that are not tapered. Would like a pinch of rake after the level 
I put 2.5" traxda flat blocks in the rear of my truck.
No issues 20k on it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Have read a good bit of this thread but its massive. Seeing if i can get some advice. Have a 2017 Sierra SLT with a 2.25" level kit in the front only. Am looking at getting BFG KO2s put on next week. Keep goin back and forth between 275/60/20 and 275/65/20. I keep reading different tires will fit and won't fit. Also the stamped upper control arm issue. The shop that put the leveling kit said they will just put a steering top on when i get the tires. Is that a decent fix or solution to the rubbing issue? What size tires would y'all that have done it recommend? From what i can gather the 17s won't clear as big a tire as the 14 and 15s. Also any advice between ko2 and toyo at2? Any help would be great

Edited by rhill1
Posted
Have read a good bit of this thread but its massive. Seeing if i can get some advice. Have a 2017 Sierra SLT with a 2.25" level kit in the front only. Am looking at getting BFG KO2s put on next week. Keep goin back and forth between 275/60/20 and 275/65/20. I keep reading different tires will fit and won't fit. Also the stamped upper control arm issue. The shop that put the leveling kit said they will just put a steering top on when i get the tires. Is that a decent fix or solution to the rubbing issue? What size tires would y'all that have done it recommend? From what i can gather the 17s won't clear as big a tire as the 14 and 15s. Also any advice between ko2 and toyo at2? Any help would be great

 

No, it’ll widen your turning radius all for a level. You’re pretty much stuck with stock 275/55/20’s (32”) unless you don’t mind the loud and nasty rubbing on the uca’s you’ll have to switch wheels for a different offset to like a +1 offset and then you can go to 285/60/20’s (33” +). It happened to me but I had to learn as I went.

 

Here’s mine when it was leveled 2.25” up front with an added 1” rear block to the stock block, still got a bit of rub but only on the wheel well liner which a heat gun can remedy that.

 

e912a11214d8a2b8a65305385fce6f20.jpg

 

 

Sent from above

Posted
7 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 


No, it’ll widen your turning radius all for a level. You’re pretty much stuck with stock 275/55/20’s (32”) unless you don’t mind the loud and nasty rubbing on the uca’s you’ll have to switch wheels for a different offset to like a +1 offset and then you can go to 285/60/20’s (33.2”). It happened to me but I had to learn as I went.

Here’s mine when it was leveled 2.25” up front with an added 1” rear block to the stock block, still got a bit of rub but only on the wheel well liner which a heat gun can remedy that.

e912a11214d8a2b8a65305385fce6f20.jpg


Sent from above

 

Great looking setup.  What is your wheel & tires combo?

  • Like 1
Posted
Great looking setup.  What is your wheel & tires combo?

Thank you, fuel 20x9 +1 off set, 285/60/20 (34”) Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Forgot the model wheel.


Sent from above
Posted (edited)

New to the forum. Was able to pick some good information up scanning through threads. Installed 2" motofab level the other night. Just put in a couple husky liners in the front. Also debadged the doors to accommodate the logo with an eraser wheel. Just bought this truck at the beginning of the year, coming over from the Cummins Forum. 

IMG_0934.jpeg

Edited by gmclandman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...