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Can someone with a 2.5" up front get measurements from ground to fender? I feel like over the past 50k miles my truck has started to sag and isnt sitting as high as it use to..

 

When posting 2.5" measurements please include 2wd or 4wd and tire size.

 

Thanks

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Can someone with a 2.5" up front get measurements from ground to fender? I feel like over the past 50k miles my truck has started to sag and isnt sitting as high as it use to..
 
When posting 2.5" measurements please include 2wd or 4wd and tire size.
 
Thanks
image.png.5a68d8bbb4866e6856384729b10b67f3.png
I have 2.5 front 1 rear. 305/65r18 tires. My fenders are around 40.5 front and 41.5 rear


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I would like to install Motofab CH-25F-2R 2.5” front and 2” rear to my 2018 Silverado, do I also need the rear shock extensions? Are there any other parts, hardware or special tools to install? I am very mechanically inclined but have not worked on suspension much. Will I have any issues with my control arms with this particular kit? I am suiting I will also need to get a realignment as well, is this correct?

Edited by aleeuw
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On 5/20/2019 at 6:15 PM, texasaggies16 said:

Can someone with a 2.5" up front get measurements from ground to fender? I feel like over the past 50k miles my truck has started to sag and isnt sitting as high as it use to..

 

When posting 2.5" measurements please include 2wd or 4wd and tire size.

 

Thanks

image.png

I feel like mines def sagged over the years. Threw mine on at 5k miles and am now at 50k and i feel like i can see a difference...

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14 hours ago, aleeuw said:

I would like to install Motofab CH-25F-2R 2.5” front and 2” rear to my 2018 Silverado, do I also need the rear shock extensions? Are there any other parts, hardware or special tools to install? I am very mechanically inclined but have not worked on suspension much. Will I have any issues with my control arms with this particular kit? I am suiting I will also need to get a realignment as well, is this correct?

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

Edited by Pivot
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31 minutes ago, Pivot said:

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

Thanks for the info. I would like to keep stock rims and tires as I have an LTZ with the 20s. Not sure if this combo will work or if I will have to change things up. 

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2 hours ago, Pivot said:

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

If I go with 5100s in the front will I have issues with the UCA?

Edited by aleeuw
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9 hours ago, aleeuw said:

Thanks for the info. I would like to keep stock rims and tires as I have an LTZ with the 20s. Not sure if this combo will work or if I will have to change things up. 

That's your call. You'll have to see how it looks when you lift. Tires might look small after lift. I have a 2017 High Country. That model comes with 20" rims and the Stock tires on mine are 275/55/20. Offset is+27. 

 

I have P rated tires. They are light and designed for road, highway, quiet and mpg. You move up to LT with some of the more aggressive treads and you can get in the range of mid 50# and even mid 60#'s each. 

 

I'm going to swap out those rims and move to a 33" tire. So far I'm trying to keep conservative and do a 275/60/20. That would bump be up from 31.9" to 33. Remember, I'm doing a level. I should be around 1 3/4"  higher up front on top setting. Lift it with the spacers and see what you think. The only drawback is you'd have to do a "Front End Alingment" after spacers and again if you deceide to move up in tires, but that 's only around $100. Tires and rims are cheap. GL

Edited by Pivot
Added *Alingment
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3 hours ago, aleeuw said:

If I go with 5100s in the front will I have issues with the UCA?

If you only use the Bilstein 5100 on 4th setting , you should be good. That's about 1.75. Now if you are thinking of installing 2 1/2 spacer in front and then keeping the Bilsteins at stock or 0 setting, then thats up to debate on UCA. Most say it's no issue. Everything I've read is if you go much over 2" you could have a problem with the angle. It's crazy since no two trucks are exactly the same. Also remember lots of guys aren't stopping there and are going lower in offset to push wheel out, taller tires, wider tires. Pretty sure the 2018 stock UCA's are stamped steel like i have on 2017. They are wider and can get in the way faster than the aluminum or steel ones in older trucks. Remember that they have adjustable 5100's for the front. The rear 5100's in the rear are not adjustable. They are an upgrade and ALLOW up to an additional 1" lift. I have Z60 suspension vs Z71. Almost positive your stock shocks won't be long enough once you pull stock block and replace with 2". I thought the motofab info was a bit deceiving. I ordered CH-1R. That's a 2" block. They advertise as 1" level. It should net you 3/4 inch. I want to maintain a little bit of rake. They are easy to replace and cheap. Cheaper if you buy them in a package with the front spacers. 

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3 hours ago, aleeuw said:

If I go with 5100s in the front will I have issues with the UCA?

Talking round numbers if you do the adjustable 5100 front and the 5100 rear (nonn adjustable) You are looking at $360. If you do the bilstein 6112 up front and 5100 rear, you are looking around $800. The 6112 comes with new coils and much beefier strut. Take a hard look at the Eibach Pro Truck Lift (stage 1). You can get the package front and rear shocks+ coils for under $600. Add a 2" block and $650 all in. I was real close to going this route. Check out Waterfowlers posts on Eibach. He did a great video on the entire install. Others are chiming in now that they really like. Here's a link if you haven't heard of it. 

 

https://eibach.com/us/i-8808-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html

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24 minutes ago, Pivot said:

Talking round numbers if you do the adjustable 5100 front and the 5100 rear (nonn adjustable) You are looking at $360. If you do the bilstein 6112 up front and 5100 rear, you are looking around $800. The 6112 comes with new coils and much beefier strut. Take a hard look at the Eibach Pro Truck Lift (stage 1). You can get the package front and rear shocks+ coils for under $600. Add a 2" block and $650 all in. I was real close to going this route. Check out Waterfowlers posts on Eibach. He did a great video on the entire install. Others are chiming in now that they really like. Here's a link if you haven't heard of it. 

 

https://eibach.com/us/i-8808-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html

Thanks for all the help! I will have to do some more research and see what will work best for my situation. I wish it was an easier decision. 

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9 hours ago, techsan15 said:

I feel like mines def sagged over the years. Threw mine on at 5k miles and am now at 50k and i feel like i can see a difference...

Do you think its the springs or shocks possibly? Cant be the spacer since that doesnt change.. I thought about upgrading shocks since im at nearly 74k miles (level put on at 11k). 

 

New springs seems like a big hassle lol

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7 hours ago, Pivot said:

That's your call. You'll have to see how it looks when you lift. Tires might look small after lift. I have a 2017 High Country. That model comes with 20" rims and the Stock tires on mine are 275/55/20. Offset is+27. 

 

I have P rated tires. They are light and designed for road, highway, quiet and mpg. You move up to LT with some of the more aggressive treads and you can get in the range of mid 50# and even mid 60#'s each. 

 

I'm going to swap out those rims and move to a 33" tire. So far I'm trying to keep conservative and do a 275/60/20. That would bump be up from 31.9" to 33. Remember, I'm doing a level. I should be around 1 3/4"  higher up front on top setting. Lift it with the spacers and see what you think. The only drawback is you'd have to do a "Front End Alingment" after spacers and again if you deceide to move up in tires, but that 's only around $100. Tires and rims are cheap. GL

You have to do an alignment either way. Bilstein 5100 or 6112 at anything other than stock height, or spacer, or eibach or anything that changes ride height. 

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