Jump to content

Where I start

Youngbuck707

By Youngbuck707
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

Youngbuck707 Enthusiast

Youngbuck707

Posted
Posted

Hi folks new to the site if I'm misposted please let me know and I'll try again. So to start with I'm running a '91 chevy suburban 2500 4x4 with the 350 motor. The problems I'm encountering are a follows, with descriptions. 1. I have a coolant leak but I'm not sure where it is coming from, I notice the coolant around my starter, but no problems with the starter itself. Also that is the only place I have seen the fluid. 2. My transmission leaks like a siv I have replaced the pan gasket and filter but to no avail. I notice the fluid everywhere around the trans on the cross member down the frame rails. That's about it for my leaks. And lastly 3. My steering wheel is upside down! How do I fix that? My alignment sit 180* out but the wheel is. Any help on any of my problems would be greatly appreciated thank you all.

NitroCherokee Enthusiast

NitroCherokee

Posted
Posted

1. Most likely intake gaskets

2. I would bet on adapter stand to trans gasket

3. alignment is not done right, I'll bet it turns sharper one way than the other

Youngbuck707 Enthusiast

Youngbuck707

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Are you talking about the coolant intake gaskets? If so where are they? And same question for the adapter stand. And also my steering is the same either way as far as I can tell. I've had the alignment checked its good.

NitroCherokee Enthusiast

NitroCherokee

Posted
Posted

Not coolant intake gaskets, intake gaskets. You know the intake? The top of the engine, bolts to the heads, the throttle body bolts to it.

 

Adapter stand is the piece between the Transmission and Transfer case

 

No your alignment is not right or your steering wheel wouldn't be upside down, unless someone had the intermidiate shaft off and put it back on 180 off

Youngbuck707 Enthusiast

Youngbuck707

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok the steering wheel part makes sense. But I'm not sure how the intake plays into the coolant problem. I don't have any coolant leaking into my intake. And most of the tranny leaking is towards the top and leaking down, the transfer case is dry on the housing.

NitroCherokee Enthusiast

NitroCherokee

Posted
Posted

Ok not being a dick here but if you don't know how the intake could relate to a coolant leak you don't have any business thinking about trying to fix it. Find a reputable shop in your area and take it in

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

Ok not being a dick here but if you don't know how the intake could relate to a coolant leak you don't have any business thinking about trying to fix it. Find a reputable shop in your area and take it in

+100

Youngbuck707 Enthusiast

Youngbuck707

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks mark I had no clue there was water in the intake manifold always thought that it was just air and gas/diesel and wow I guess if you don't know something it means that you shouldn't ever try to learn and just pay someone to do it. So I guess nitro was born knowing every thing. Not trying to be a dick. And not everyone can afford to put their truck into a shop some of us actually have to work on our own vehicles

thearborbarber Enthusiast

thearborbarber

Posted
Posted

Sounds like tranny fluid is puking out the vent on the top of the case. That should have the 4l80e and they are sensitive to fluid level. Make sure it's not over full.

 

Gen1 small blocks coolant leaks at the intake gaskets are pretty common. Also there is a tube that comes off the back of the intake that goes to the heater core. They rot out over time and need a good look over to see if yours is shot.

 

If you alignment is correct then your intermediate steering shaft is out of phase. You need a goofy socket to undo the bolt on the steering the box and then undo the bolt under the brake master cylinder on the steering shaft. Pull the shaft out, rotate the steering wheel the half turn your need and put the shaft back in and replace the bolts.

 

I have a 91 1500 Suburban. It's been a great ride and has 245000 miles.

Duelin Enthusiast

Duelin

Posted
Posted

Would you like to learn how to find those leaks? Then what you do is add Dye to the coolant and trans fluid. Clean every thing up. Run the vehicle of a while. Then check with a Black Light. You will be able to trace it back to the spot it is coming from. You can also use dye in an AC system to find leaks.

Youngbuck707 Enthusiast

Youngbuck707

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks duelin I didn't think of that! I actually didn't know they had some that was ok for trans fluid or coolant. All I've done in the past is remove and replace components and various lines. This is the first time I've tried to solve a leaking problem. Mainly because it's starting to annoy me lol

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mandrautomotive
      Light Up the Trail From Above: 50" PRO for the Hummer EV

      By mandrautomotive · Posted

      Hey everyone,   For anyone looking at roof-mounted lighting for the Hummer EV, we wanted to share our M&R Automotive 50" PRO Roof Light Bar for the 2022+ GMC Hummer EV.   The curved 50" bar sits close to the windshield rather than sticking way up above the roofline. The mounting position is designed to keep the setup relatively streamlined while minimizing wind noise and maintaining full use of the factory windshield wipers.   A few details:   50" curved PRO light bar Fits 2022–2026 GMC Hummer EV Spot + driving beam pattern TIR optics White main beam Amber DRL backglow Approximately 15,410 measured lumens through the lens Mounts to factory accessory locations No cutting or drilling required Wiring runs down the A-pillar toward the AUX connections Designed to minimize wind noise Lifetime warranty Off-road use only     The 50" is an interesting middle ground for anyone who wants the visibility and mounting position of a roof bar without stepping all the way up to the larger 60" setup. For the Hummer EV owners here, would you go with the 50" for the lower-profile look or step up to the full 60"?  
    • Glava2876
      What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

      By Glava2876 · Posted

      My son got a hatchback withe the aero package for like 17k new. Great little car with amazing MPH
    • Jsdirt
      What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Yeah, I've given up years ago with that! I was able to load a few when I first joined the site sometime around '07. Then after maybe 20 pics, it said I exceeded the limit. Now every pic I try to post says I've "exceeded 1mb".   ONE MB??? That's Windows 95 ******, lol!! 
    • KARNUT
      What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I get the same results with pictures. Then I figure it out. Then I forget. Screw it.
    • Jsdirt
      What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      I guess I'm the only one on this forum who can't get effing pics to load here! Do you have to resize them to post, or am I just blocked from uploads?   I have the same luck with automotive electronics ... but this is the ONLY site on the net that I have this problem!   I'd post pics of what I'm working on ... but I CAN'T! 🤬       Just fabbed up the kickdown cable (had to extend the cable mount WAAAY out from the throttle shaft to get a full pull), and parts arrived for the fuel lines on the 940 carb conversion project. Should be able to drive this thing by the end of the day. If not for work, I'd have had this thing done SIX weeks ago.   Got the jetting sorted out last week. Had a real bad tip-in bog that I couldn't seem to correct. Friggin float height was over 11mm too HIGH! eBay purchase, so no wonder everything is screwed up right out of the box! I ended up with a larger dual-squirt accelerator pump jet anyway instead of the single. Also moved the 70 primary idle jet (4 sizes too big out of the box) to the secondary idle circuit, and installed a 57 in the primary. Runs great on the fuel bottle!    Still using the computer for ignition. Going to drive it first and see if I want to go through the project of installing an intermediate shaft with a distributor drive gear, so I can install a block-mounted distributor and run points, 100% computer free. I should do that anyway just from a simplicity / reliability / tunability standpoint. The electronics left me stranded last year a couple times! I can't tweak the timing to my liking right now because of the computer. Tried twisting the cam-driven distributor already ... and the damned thing just reverts back to where it was! That's infuriating. But if it runs well enough I might save that for next season.   Just driving it in and out of the shop to work on other projects, it feels 1,000% more responsive with the carburetor. Also fires MUCH faster when cranking. Can't wait to drive it and see if I got more than 114 ponies, lolol.   Hopefully these don't go 404 like the last post ... https://postimg.cc/gallery/MjhrmZS   Seems like that site went back to dial-up internet! Maybe they'll fix that some day ...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...