Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

I didn't use any of the clips. There is a barb on the hose nipples, if you push hard enough the hose will go over the barb and all the way down the nipple. At that point the hose is not coming off, I tugged pretty hard and it takes a fair amount of effort to pull the hose off of the barb on the nipple once the hose is seated fully.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

I didn't use any of the clips. There is a barb on the hose nipples, if you push hard enough the hose will go over the barb and all the way down the nipple. At that point the hose is not coming off, I tugged pretty hard and it takes a fair amount of effort to pull the hose off of the barb on the nipple once the hose is seated fully.

I ended up calling RX. I asked about pushing it this far down and he said you don't need to do this. He confirmed all you have to do is push the hose until it hits that ring/barb that the clip usually goes over. He said we could use the factory clips or hose clamps if we wanted to but it wasn't necessary because the hose is tight enough as it is on the barb/nozzle being that it's all vacuum and not high pressure. So I'm going to skip trying to use the factory clips and just ensure tomorrow that my hose clamps are sufficiently tight one last time. The only thing he said we need to worry about is a vacuum leak caused by the hose not being pushed all the way on so I'm just going to double check everything one last time.

 

The gentlemen on the phone also advised against induction cleaning services like BG because of the potential for carbon deposits to get stuck between the ring seals and the cylinder walls causing scoring on the cylinder walls. He said I could do it once to clean what's already built up as I didn't install my can until about 12k miles but advised not to do it too much and if I do to also get an oil change at the same time. I think I'm going to hold off with the mentality that if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

To answer the question about the condition of the valves, I do plan to get my mechanic to bore scope my engine to see what's built up. The gentlemen with RX said at 12k miles I probably have a good amount of build up on the valves already.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

if you are worried about a vacuum loss then push the hose down the barb. It will be sealed at that point and wont come off. My hoses were really loose installed the way the kit suggested, that is why I pushed them down on the barbs.

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

It would be really tough to get a bore scope the intake valve through the intake as you have to go in to the other side of the intake to get into the runner that curves up and over to the other side where it leads into the head.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

if you are worried about a vacuum loss then push the hose down the barb. It will be sealed at that point and wont come off. My hoses were really loose installed the way the kit suggested, that is why I pushed them down on the barbs.

Yeah mine were loose too which is why I hose clamped them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ToesonTheNose Enthusiast

ToesonTheNose

Posted
Posted

RX posted an install video for the 5.3L engine a few days ago. I'm watching it now. Should help some guys out there that haven't installed theirs yet.

 

 

I was just about to post this up, this was done on my truck

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was just about to post this up, this was done on my truck

Oh yeah that's right you said they were making one. Awesome!

 

Well I did my work today. My goal was to use smaller diameter hose clamps since the old ones I used were big and had to be tightened so much they weren't a perfect circle and that bothered me. However I think they were fine though. After loosening them up I had to pull with a little force to get the hose off as the heat must've made the hose adhere a little to the nozzle. However when I reinstalled the hose it's definitely loose and in my opinion hose clamps are required despite what that install video says but I don't think you need the factory clips so I decided not to use them. Overall I'm satisfied with my install now and definitely satisfied with the function of the Rx can. I will post some additional pictures I took today of the hose clamps and my drain tube hopefully tomorrow or Monday.

 

EDIT: I forgot to mention I decided to leave the drain tube alone for now. I'm going to try to rig up some kind of contraption or a larger hose that can connect or wrap around the end of the drain tube and run down to whatever container I'm capturing the oil in. At the end of the day I like the hose running to below the truck as an extra precaution for cleanliness so if I can maintain that setup I'd like to. But if I can't make something work plan B is to remove it completely and do like you guys have said and just wipe the bottom of the can after I'm done draining it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

Drained mine today. Good amount of condensation before the nasty stuff

 

4ce16faf10896a1f596d5880d5bf6c38.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oh yeah that's right you said they were making one. Awesome!

 

Well I did my work today. My goal was to use smaller diameter hose clamps since the old ones I used were big and had to be tightened so much they weren't a perfect circle and that bothered me. However I think they were fine though. After loosening them up I had to pull with a little force to get the hose off as the heat must've made the hose adhere a little to the nozzle. However when I reinstalled the hose it's definitely loose and in my opinion hose clamps are required despite what that install video says but I don't think you need the factory clips so I decided not to use them. Overall I'm satisfied with my install now and definitely satisfied with the function of the Rx can. I will post some additional pictures I took today of the hose clamps and my drain tube hopefully tomorrow or Monday.

 

EDIT: I forgot to mention I decided to leave the drain tube alone for now. I'm going to try to rig up some kind of contraption or a larger hose that can connect or wrap around the end of the drain tube and run down to whatever container I'm capturing the oil in. At the end of the day I like the hose running to below the truck as an extra precaution for cleanliness so if I can maintain that setup I'd like to. But if I can't make something work plan B is to remove it completely and do like you guys have said and just wipe the bottom of the can after I'm done draining it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Photos from my hose clamp swap this past saturday:

 

IMG_0990_zpsa6b3e243.jpg

 

Where my drain tube currently runs.

 

IMG_0987_zps64d8253f.jpg

 

Hose connection at the crank case vent nozzle (under the throttle body)

 

IMG_0985_zpsd14fc4b8.jpg

 

Hose connection at the top driver's side of the engine.

 

My old hose clamps at these nozzles were sized for 3/8" up to some high number I forgot so I had to tighten them a lot and they weren't perfectly round. These new clamps are rated for 1/4" to 5/8" diameter and the hose is 3/8" so much less tightening and the clamp is nearly perfectly round putting even pressure around the entire hose.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • 2 weeks later...
ndkid Enthusiast

ndkid

Posted
Posted

Drained my RX can today after 333 miles and got 5oz or 2/3 cup of junk out. I am impresses and what the RX can takes out and surprised how much junk could be ingested.

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

Drained my RX can today after 333 miles and got 5oz or 2/3 cup of junk out. I am impresses and what the RX can takes out and surprised how much junk could be ingested.

Are you guys buying the RX directly from RX Performance

 

RT

ndkid Enthusiast

ndkid

Posted
Posted

Are you guys buying the RX directly from RX Performance

 

RT

I ordered mine through Amazon. They were just getting their store set up I think. It still comes with everything you need to install. It might be quicker to call and order especially if you want a custom color if they still do that. I just ordered black and it took a week or two to ship but it was over the holidays.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Are you guys buying the RX directly from RX Performance

 

RT

That's what I did. Took a few weeks but the can is top quality and has been working great so far. If you call them with any questions they're very helpful.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

haider320 Enthusiast

haider320

Posted
Posted

Anybody install a catch can from Autozone or find one cheaper? I have a baby girl on the way in the next 3 weeks and I wanted to see what my finances are going to be like before I drop 200.00 plus on the RX.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...