Oil catch can?

Crf450r420 · January 4, 2015

Hey Guys, Just a thought on the carbon buildup conversation. First question is what causes carbon buildup? I have searched and never did find that oil causes carbon buildup but is the unused fuel during combustion. If that is the case on our DI engines how can carbon buildup on the back on the valves? Not saying it does not. I do agree that oil in the air intake is not good and will be adding a CC. I'm no engine expert so if this is not the case please advise. If anyone has pictures of carbon buildup on our engines please share.

Reversion is how un-burnt fuel gets up there. It is from the over lap in the cam when the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time. Carbon come from the fuel in same way it comes from oil. Oil comes from the ground as crude oil. It is refined and different things come from different levels. Asphalt is more of the bottom of the mix. Diesel is above that Fuel octane ratings go from regular and up to premium and up further to jet fuel. They all come from the same thing, dead carbon based life forms (plants and animals) from the passed. They all have carbon. If you have 10,000 miles on your truck you can see it on your own, maybe even with less miles. Just take off your throttle body. The carbon on the back of the it is carbon from reversion.

Guess I had some of that out of order. Just going from memory. http://www.elmhurst.edu/~chm/vchembook/images/513refine.JPEG

Edited January 4, 2015 by Crf450r420

JHowie · January 5, 2015

Thanks Shawn, for the fossil lesson. The GM engineers (Ha Ha) should have known this would become a problem and I think somewhere I read that, maybe it was Toyota or Nissan, actually added another fuel spray behind the valve to aide in cleaning. An Audi owner was complaining about an $800 valve cleaning service every 15,000 miles or so. So, why haven't we heard of a valve cleaning service recommendation needed at XXXX miles? Does GM not think this will be a problem? I might just be a little worried about the $50K truck in my driveway. Right now I have just under 7K miles but I plan on adding a Airraid tube so I will take a peek inside then. Thanks again.

Silverado-Hareek · January 5, 2015

Thanks Shawn, for the fossil lesson. The GM engineers (Ha Ha) should have known this would become a problem and I think somewhere I read that, maybe it was Toyota or Nissan, actually added another fuel spray behind the valve to aide in cleaning. An Audi owner was complaining about an $800 valve cleaning service every 15,000 miles or so. So, why haven't we heard of a valve cleaning service recommendation needed at XXXX miles? Does GM not think this will be a problem? I might just be a little worried about the $50K truck in my driveway. Right now I have just under 7K miles but I plan on adding a Airraid tube so I will take a peek inside then. Thanks again.

My guess is because DI engines are so new to the general population that valve cleaning services are being offered as a solution to a problem rather than a maintenance item. The public simply isn't aware yet. Once more people realize they're getting scammed on repairs with DI engines, either catch cans will come stock or valve cleaning will be a maintenance item listed in the manual. I'd also guess manufacturers have figured out how to slow the problem enough that they can escape the warranty period before noticeable problems arise.

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Crf450r420 · January 5, 2015

You will find more about it in forums with the earlier I4 and V6 models offered with it by GM. Ford is just releasing warnings about the chemical cleanings because of the turbos, so they are just getting their hands on it. Chevy has been racing with it for years, but when you rebuild the motor every race it's not so something you would notice. Your truck will be okay and it can be fixed for way less that $500. A catch can won't stop it but almost certainly will slow it. You will still need to do a cleaning of some sort either way, so you have to chose. I can tell you this for $2000 you can likely get new heads installed where the Audi is way more difficult to work on and the heads are probably $2000 each, so they are looking at more like $5k to $6k for new heads installed.

ToesonTheNose · January 5, 2015

When I was at the shop getting my can put in, he showed me the head on a 140K port injection motor, the valves where nice and clean no build up, he showed a DI injection head with 30K miles and it looked like a bbq girl after a heave bbq session

brokesilverado · January 6, 2015

Just wondering if someone with a homemade catch can can post how much oil is being caught in say 2,000 miles or so vs a rx or Norris can owners in the same mileage?

DanMan_S · January 6, 2015

Just wondering if someone with a homemade catch can can post how much oil is being caught in say 2,000 miles or so vs a rx or Norris can owners in the same mileage?

I'm building myself a dual chamber one for my truck and can update once it's ready to go.

brokesilverado · January 6, 2015

My Catch Can install:

(1) Harbor Freight 1/2" Air Compressor Filter - $14.99

(2)HF brass 1/2" to 3/8" bushing - $.99ea

(1) HF brass 3/8" Male to 3/8" hose barb pair - $1.27

(1) HF 100 Pack of black 11" zip ties $2.99

ebay 3/8" Silicon High Perf Vac Hose 10ft - $21 shipped

(1) 3 pack of copper pot scrubbers Dollar Tree $1

(1) Ace Hardware bolt to plug the HF Air Compressor drain $.69

How about this catch can & how much it catches in 2000 miles against a rx & any other cans? Just to see which is more effective for the money invested.

Silverado-Hareek · January 6, 2015

How about this catch can & how much it catches in 2000 miles against a rx & any other cans? Just to see which is more effective for the money invested.

This will be tough to compare as people live in different areas of the country and weather affects humidity in your system. Also the type of fuel used, driving habits, etc. all can play a role in engine performance. The only way to truly measure this is for someone to install and try different cans on the same truck and drive it in similar weather conditions with the same driving habits.

There is a link somewhere in this thread that takes you to an article that compares a lot of the brand name cans. The testers created a set-up to measure the amount of oil being caught in different brand cans and found the RX can to be the most effective of the bunch, although they said the other cans worked great and would recommend them as well.

bladz1454 · January 6, 2015

This will be tough to compare as people live in different areas of the country and weather affects humidity in your system. Also the type of fuel used, driving habits, etc. all can play a role in engine performance. The only way to truly measure this is for someone to install and try different cans on the same truck and drive it in similar weather conditions with the same driving habits.

There is a link somewhere in this thread that takes you to an article that compares a lot of the brand name cans. The testers created a set-up to measure the amount of oil being caught in different brand cans and found the RX can to be the most effective of the bunch, although they said the other cans worked great and would recommend them as well.

+1, this referred too thread is actually why I decided to go with a duel catch can. In the test, people were taking the top name brands and putting second cans after the first can - ALL cans let some oil through but as stated above, RX was the most efficient. However, the company I am testing right now was not tested but only referred to as "as good as RX" and that brand was Saikou Michi.

Silverado-Hareek · January 6, 2015

That hose should be like $12-16 depending on engine model, I was pricing them out when designing my current can (to cut the hose and keep the clips).

Do you know what this hose is called? I'm thinking of picking one up to get the clips off of it and use the clips to secure the hoses to the engine rather than the hose clamps. Maybe it's me being paranoid but I like the idea of the clip holding it on there rather than the hose clamp pinching the hose on the smooth nozzle. I'm worried it may work itself loose over time.

bladz1454 · January 6, 2015

Do you know what this hose is called? I'm thinking of picking one up to get the clips off of it and use the clips to secure the hoses to the engine rather than the hose clamps. Maybe it's me being paranoid but I like the idea of the clip holding it on there rather than the hose clamp pinching the hose on the smooth nozzle. I'm worried it may work itself loose over time.

part # 12619985 tube assembly - actually was given this info from another member on here not too far back

Silverado-Hareek · January 6, 2015

part # 12619985 tube assembly - actually was given this info from another member on here not too far back

You rock! Thanks man.

EDIT: Just called in the order to the dealer. The part should be in tomorrow. I will try to install the clips this weekend. That will give me more peace of mind. FYI I think that part number you gave me is for the 6.2L. I have a 5.3. No big deal I told the guy over the phone I needed the "PCV Tube." He said there's a dirty tube and then 2 clean side tubes and I told him the dirty one and he confirmed that it attaches below the throttle body to be sure. I will report back tomorrow with the part # for the 5.3 for those interested. Thanks again for your help.

Edited January 6, 2015 by Silverado-Hareek

TJay74 · January 6, 2015

Well for giggle I emptied my RX can today, pulled about 2oz of a milky white fluid out of it.

Silverado-Hareek · January 7, 2015

Where did you guys run your drain tube for the RX can? I thought I had mine in a good spot but it splattered and got all over my driveway draining it today.

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