Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Whew boys, I spent he whole morning reading all the posts! Me old haid is spinning. Here's my conclusion, correct me if I'm wrong. I thought I was one time...

 

Which truck maker does not use direct injection? If none, I'll keep my 13 year old truck and keep fixing what breaks as needed.

 

I have come to loathe direct injection engines. What a stupid engineering system! Valves getting that gunked up because of it?!? Somebody mentioned Toyota developed a system to send some fuel over the valves to keep them clean. So, makers know this is a serious problem.

 

I'm wanting a new truck, but have decided to try my best to not get direct injection.

 

Ok boys, tell me wha' I'm missing.

 

Yeah that was me I think that said Toyota had developed a system that sprays fuel on the backside of the valves every so often to clean them. The problem is I'm having a hard time identifying which engines/models have this system. If the Tundra has it, I would definitely keep my eye on it to see how the reliability is over the next few years. Other than that, I don't know of any manufacturer that has addressed the problem with valve buildup. Any consumer with a direct injection engine should consider the BG induction service every 15,000 miles at a minimum. If you can throw a catch can into the mix, even better.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

chevy2tuff2006 Enthusiast

chevy2tuff2006

Posted
Posted

If you had a vac leak big enough to hear, you'd more than likely have a check engine light on, along with some very poor running.

Ya no engine light is on and it runs fine and still maintain good gas mileage so I thinks it's fine just was wondering

kzinge1 Enthusiast

kzinge1

Posted
Posted

I do not hear any kind of vacuum noise from my setup. Might want to double check your clamps and make sure they are in position and tight. I know the one coming out of the valley was kinda tough to get tight with where it was positioned.

hotrodz37 Senior Enthusiast

hotrodz37

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got my Elite Engineering can installed today. Thinking about a different way to route the top hose as it goes down right around the oil fill cap. Was originally going to put it in the spare battery tray but didn't want hoses that long running over there and think mounting it to the brake booster cleaned it up a little. Also, the throttle body was a mess after only 8k miles and the shroud that mounts to the throttle body was full of oil. Definitely a good investment here!

af205749257b62f75979b1a01c323c7c.jpg

235e5ed634a3bb1c71753e2d47300727.jpg

f672c4b1e7296c25d38113a1dec31988.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by hotrodz37
Bonker Enthusiast

Bonker

Posted
Posted

That's not good the hose running over the oil filler cap to the intake, why don't you try routing it alongside the hose coming from the throttle body and then route it up the valley it would look much cleaner, off course you will need a new hose. Just my 2 cents.

25silveradoHD Enthusiast

25silveradoHD

Posted
Posted

does anyone know of a warranty issue with this modification?

i know its not a very in depth mod but will GM give you a hard time for this mod when coming in for service

wurgs Senior Enthusiast

wurgs

Posted
Posted

Just from the nature of what a catch can does, I can't see it causing any issues. It's just a little longer path from the pcv to the intake

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)

What my car has caught in 3400 miles

 

c3e845611025f6b98f53b632762c09e9.jpg

 

Mostly moisture

 

 

Ryan

Edited by RyanbabZ71
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Wow and I though I had alot of moisture! So much water it didn't even turn white there.

Oldjock Enthusiast

Oldjock

Posted
Posted

The amount of fluid being trapped in the can is being greatly reduced by the rising temperatures. During winter, I must drain the can every 1000 km but during the summer 8,000 km.

mjj Enthusiast

mjj

Posted
Posted (edited)

The amount of fluid being trapped in the can is being greatly reduced by the rising temperatures. During winter, I must drain the can every 1000 km but during the summer 8,000 km.

Can anyone explain why this is? Summers are more humid, the warmer air can hold more moisture, and people complain about dry skin and use humidifiers in the winter. So it seems it'd be the opposite but it's obviously not.?????

Edited by mjj
bladz1454 Enthusiast

bladz1454

Posted
Posted

Can anyone explain why this is? Summers are more humid, the warmer air can hold more moisture, and people complain about dry skin and use humidifiers in the winter. So it seems it'd be the opposite but it's obviously not.?????

Condensation holds MUCH more liquid than humidity. When its cold and your engine is much warmer than the air around it, condensation forms.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Condensation holds MUCH more liquid than humidity. When its cold and your engine is much warmer than the air around it, condensation forms.

 

:dunno: Condensation IS liquid.

 

As the temperature of air rises, it can hold more water vapor before it becomes 100% saturated (dew point). The table below shows a dramatic difference in the amount of water air can hold, based on temperature. (1 kg of air is about 27 cu ft and about 28 grams to 1 ounce)

 

water%20vapor_zpsbkvnujhy.jpg

 

When the air in a crankcase is heated, it can hold more water vapor (humidity) than cooler air and it absorbs water vapor out of the air coming into the crankcase. When the air in the crankcase and the crankcase itself cool down, the water vapor forms into droplets or condensation. When you heat the crankcase again, the condensation goes back into the air in the crankcase and is pumped thru the PCV.

Edited by spurshot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...