Oil catch can?

[GDI Tech]

You had the rare opportunity to have a truly knowledgeable tech to work on yours. Please share the dealer name so others in that area can use them. Wish all techs were as smart, but most are just part swappers, and the service managers/writers are the ones that really don;t understand any of this.

 

Great story!!!

[Glava2876]

You had the rare opportunity to have a truly knowledgeable tech to work on yours. Please share the dealer name so others in that area can use them. Wish all techs were as smart, but most are just part swappers, and the service managers/writers are the ones that really don;t understand any of this.

 

Great story!!!

 

As much as I'd like to, I didn't ask permission from him and don't want to have it come back on him.

The difference may be that Chevrolet dealers that sell Corvettes are required to have a Corvette salesman and tech that get factory training on the car -so the rest of the techs would be working on anything that Chevrolet sells including the trucks and may not be as up to date on the DI engine concerns.

[Silverado-Hareek]

I've asked this before and I'm not sure if anyone responded. Searching from my phone is a bit difficult but is anyone with an RX can getting oil buildup on the top of the can? It seems to be coming from the inlet hose to the can....seeping past where the hose is attached to the hose barb. It's just enough that after about 600-700 miles there's a thin coating of oil on top of the can and a couple drips down the side. There are no codes or lights in the dash indicating a problem and I'm still draining oil like usual from the can so its working.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited May 29, 2016 by Silverado-Hareek

[amfr]

I've asked this before and I'm not sure if anyone responded. Searching from my phone is a bit difficult but is anyone with an RX can getting oil buildup on the top of the can? It seems to be coming from the inlet hose to the can....seeping past where the hose is attached to the hose barb. It's just enough that after about 600-700 miles there's a thin coating of oil on top of the can and a couple drips down the side. There are no codes or lights in the dash indicating a problem and I'm still draining oil like usual from the can so its working.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are your connections wrapped with tape? I know I have heard they leak if not sealed properly

 

sent from Florida beech

[Silverado-Hareek]

Are your connections wrapped with tape? I know I have heard they leak if not sealed properly

 

sent from Florida beech

The original RX design doesn't have connections that need to be wrapped in tape. And the specific connection that is leaking is just a hose barb so there's nothing really to wrap. I do have a hose clamp around it for extra support and I wonder if over time that pressure has messed up the seal maybe. Because it never leaked at first. The only other thing I can think of is that since I switched to synthetic oil, it's properties allow it to seep past it a bit more easily than synthetic blend.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[amfr]

The original RX design doesn't have connections that need to be wrapped in tape. And the specific connection that is leaking is just a hose barb so there's nothing really to wrap. I do have a hose clamp around it for extra support and I wonder if over time that pressure has messed up the seal maybe. Because it never leaked at first. The only other thing I can think of is that since I switched to synthetic oil, it's properties allow it to seep past it a bit more easily than synthetic blend.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still would wrap the barb connection. Any bit helps. And you are correct synthetic is a less mineral based oil making its viscosity lower

 

sent from Florida beech

[Jsdirt]

I'd snip the end of the hose, and make the connection tighter, by whichever means used to fasten the hose to the barb.

 

I've been running Amsoil since long before I installed my can, and it doesn't leak a drop. I don't even have any clamps on a couple connections.

 

[Joe@UPRproducts]

Just wanted to share this picture of a brand new install on my first GM Truck as I have always driven Ford and Dodge. My son has a 2010 Camaro and we have been kicking around a CTS-V for his 21st birthday. After owning all the Ford and Dodge vehicles that absolutely capture a ton of oil every oil change. Ton = 3-5 ounces at every dump in the hot months and 7-8 ounces or more in the winter months.

 

I've just completed this full bolt-on system and wanted to see how everyone likes it. ( This is a Plug n Play Setup )

 

 

Here is an installed shot from the manufacturer website.

 

I am looking forward to becoming a vendor and to be a part of the community.

Cheers everyone.

Email: [email protected]

If any moderators are on please contact me about becoming a vendor and getting our own forum. We

would like to get signed up right away if possible.

Thank you, Joe

Edited July 21, 2016 by JoeCCS

[GDI Tech]

Where did you get the idea to use a WOT suction and a cleanside separator?

[Terp84Alum]

Just wanted to share this picture of a brand new install on my first GM Truck as I have always driven Ford and Dodge. My son has a 2010 Camaro and we have been kicking around a CTS-V for his 21st birthday. After owning all the Ford and Dodge vehicles that absolutely capture a ton of oil every oil change. Ton = 3-5 ounces at every dump in the hot months and 7-8 ounces or more in the winter months.

 

I've just completed this full bolt-on system and wanted to see how everyone likes it. ( This is a Plug n Play Setup )

 

 

Here is an installed shot from the manufacturer website.

 

I am looking forward to becoming a vendor and to be a part of the community.

Cheers everyone.

Email: [email protected]

If any moderators are on please contact me about becoming a vendor and getting our own forum. We

would like to get signed up right away if possible.

Thank you, Joe

Nice job, Joe. Why are there couplings in some of the hoses?

Edited July 22, 2016 by Terp84Alum

[HondaHawkGT]

Where did you get the idea to use a WOT suction and a cleanside separator?

There are few ways to deal with the problem of pressure differentials at WOT. A basic understanding of physics could lead most people to the obvious solution for manging gas flow at WOT. Most plumbers could look at a PCV system and know where check valves need to be and how the sysem works for a given throttle position.

 

It's nice to see competitors in the air-oil sep market. Don't get me wrong, my Elite CC is great, but the pricing is absurd. The price tag is out of control for the E2-X system. Ridiculous (sickening) mark-up for such a product.

[GDI Tech]

There are few ways to deal with the problem of pressure differentials at WOT. A basic understanding of physics could lead most people to the obvious solution for manging gas flow at WOT. Most plumbers could look at a PCV system and know where check valves need to be and how the sysem works for a given throttle position.

 

It's nice to see competitors in the air-oil sep market. Don't get me wrong, my Elite CC is great, but the pricing is absurd. The price tag is out of control for the E2-X system. Ridiculous (sickening) mark-up for such a product.

The question was for Joe from UPR as before a customer of his did the "catchcan test" and they failed miserably, he always promoted his (made by Billet Prototypes like the Moroso) was the best. He then copied the RX dual valve and also copied the explanations of RX on how all of this worked. (the RX is priced less I believe than the UPR) after sending RX this nasty message: " If you continue to use and show my products as being faulty or not as good as yours I will have your can manufactured in billet to be a quality item ! Them proceed to sell all your dealers with my endless source of supplies." So, before that, RX was the ONLY can that understood this and shared this information. Using someone else years of hard work and research to copy is less than ethical. Same with the "cleanside separator" that RX was the first and only to use, then UPR copied it as well:

 

Read the entire test here:

 

http://www.f150forum.com/f70/5-0-upr-vs-rx-catch-can-effectiveness-test-254381/

 

And, here is a challenge. Perform that same test but with the E2-X against the can in the pictures Joe posted here, and the E2-X comes out on top.

 

That was the only point of my post.

 

Most ethical companies will work with an inventor/designer to have them license the design, or have them private labeled from the inventor. Comapnies that just copy others to short cut all the expense and years of R&D are what is wrong with business today.

 

 

These were out for months before he copied it. And after you read the nasty letter (he had his customer take the challenge, not RX) this is what is wrong with business today IMHO.

 

 

[Elite Engineering]

I don't want to turn this into a price war or Catch Can bashing thread. I always stand behind our pricing. I feel our prices are very competitive with the type of engineering, design, and in-house manufacturing we put into all our products. I also feel we go the extra step in quality and finish of our products. There's a lot of cost in our Catch Cans, and as any successful business knows, there's a lot of costs behind the scenes (forum sponsorship, advertising, marketing, overhead, burden, etc.). We try to price all our items so that we can, on occasion, offer specials, and also support our great dealers. It doesn't benefit any successful business to to have grossly elevated margins.

 

 

 

 

[mookdoc6]

My vote goes to Elite! They answered my questions and sent me a well built product. All the parts and pieces were quality and I still have not seen a catch can that can match it! Thanks Elite!

[Elite Engineering]

My vote goes to Elite! They answered my questions and sent me a well built product. All the parts and pieces were quality and I still have not seen a catch can that can match it! Thanks Elite!

 

 

We thank you!