Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Actually its a noticable difference. Going from 19-20 mpg to 15-16 mpg is pretty big

 

what was the difference in tire size and tread patterns? Outside conditions such as air temp or elevation changes? Driving habit? That significant of a drop shouldn't come just from changing a 20" rim to a 18" rim. I have 20s on mine and with all I have in my truck I still get 18-20MPG as long as its 60+ degrees outside

  • Like 1
Posted

Man that's what I was thinking. It shouldn't be that big of a difference. I just got my truck back from dealership and told them to look at the drop in mileage. They told me it had to be the rims and tires. Said they prolly weighed 80lbs combined. I had the exact same truck (with stock 18's) for a rental while they were working on it and it got high 19mpg. Who knows ha

Posted

Yea it's hard to understand that one. On my '10 Silverado I went from 17's to 22's with no noticeable difference and went from 20's to 22's on my '14 with no difference as well.

Posted

2.5 Rough Country Lift with stock 1" rear blocks. Still trying to decide what brand and size tires I want to go with. I want to get all terrains because of the amount of highway miles I drive. Any body have any suggestions on a brand and size?? The stock tires are 265/65/R18.

 

attachicon.gifLeveled truck.jpg

 

Anyone anyone..Buehler?

Posted

 

Anyone anyone..Buehler?

 

Have you tried searching? That will answer your question...

 

 

what was the difference in tire size and tread patterns? Outside conditions such as air temp or elevation changes? Driving habit? That significant of a drop shouldn't come just from changing a 20" rim to a 18" rim. I have 20s on mine and with all I have in my truck I still get 18-20MPG as long as its 60+ degrees outside

 

20-18 shouldn't be a drop but a small increase as a 18" rim is lighter than a 20 in most cases. But if you go larger tires, more aggressive or a large load range such as an E, then they will for sure decrease from the 20's with a street oriented stock tire.

 

Tyler

Posted (edited)

2.5 Rough Country Lift with stock 1" rear blocks. Still trying to decide what brand and size tires I want to go with. I want to get all terrains because of the amount of highway miles I drive. Any body have any suggestions on a brand and size?? The stock tires are 265/65/R18.

 

attachicon.gifLeveled truck.jpg

 

depends on what size you want and price. I am sure you already got tires but if not Toyos are expensive but they have a all terrain tire with a 60-65 thousand mile warranty and they don't look bad either. If you were looking for rugged /dependable I hear great things about the duratracs. However toyo is also putting out a tire that is somewhere between all terrain and mud tire that sounds pretty awesome. However if your going with a medium size and want a long lasting good tire. I would go with firestones AT tire. I had them on my Tahoe, and I sold it to my parents and the tires still look great that was four years ago and a lot of miles. I also had them on my 2004 Silverado and they looked brand new when I traded it in two years later. I went with bigger mud tires this time and will probly go with the toyos next time for sure. I have nitto trail grapplers and love they looks and they are not nearly as loud as most mud terrain tires.

 

I also have 295 70 r18 and they fit snug. with minor rub at full crank. Nothing I would trim out. and slight rub in the rear when 4x4ing hard.

Edited by travalan21
Posted

 

depends on what size you want and price. I am sure you already got tires but if not Toyos are expensive but they have a all terrain tire with a 60-65 thousand mile warranty and they don't look bad either. If you were looking for rugged /dependable I hear great things about the duratracs. However toyo is also putting out a tire that is somewhere between all terrain and mud tire that sounds pretty awesome. However if your going with a medium size and want a long lasting good tire. I would go with firestones AT tire. I had them on my Tahoe, and I sold it to my parents and the tires still look great that was four years ago and a lot of miles. I also had them on my 2004 Silverado and they looked brand new when I traded it in two years later. I went with bigger mud tires this time and will probly go with the toyos next time for sure. I have nitto trail grapplers and love they looks and they are not nearly as loud as most mud terrain tires.

 

I also have 295 70 r18 and they fit snug. with minor rub at full crank. Nothing I would trim out. and slight rub in the rear when 4x4ing hard.

 

Thanks for the input travalan21! I really wanted to go with the 295/70/18s but wasn't sure about the rubbing, now I know. What kind of gas mileage do you get? Also, you have a 2.5" lift?

Posted

 

depends on what size you want and price. I am sure you already got tires but if not Toyos are expensive but they have a all terrain tire with a 60-65 thousand mile warranty and they don't look bad either. If you were looking for rugged /dependable I hear great things about the duratracs. However toyo is also putting out a tire that is somewhere between all terrain and mud tire that sounds pretty awesome. However if your going with a medium size and want a long lasting good tire. I would go with firestones AT tire. I had them on my Tahoe, and I sold it to my parents and the tires still look great that was four years ago and a lot of miles. I also had them on my 2004 Silverado and they looked brand new when I traded it in two years later. I went with bigger mud tires this time and will probly go with the toyos next time for sure. I have nitto trail grapplers and love they looks and they are not nearly as loud as most mud terrain tires.

 

I also have 295 70 r18 and they fit snug. with minor rub at full crank. Nothing I would trim out. and slight rub in the rear when 4x4ing hard.

 

I just found your post on page 85. Truck looks great. Can you post more pics of it? Really curious about the gas mileage difference between my stock tires and the 295/70/18. Not gonna stop me from putting them on or anything, just curious.

Posted

 

First pic

 

 

Posted

Must havea lot of snow? All I see is white.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,993 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...