Jump to content

Post Pics of Your 2014+

jomuehlbauer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Shakeydeal Enthusiast

Shakeydeal

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, mastec1970 said:

2014 GMC Sierra SLE Crew, 6" Fabtech lift w/ Dirt Logic coilovers, Fuel 2 piece Rims and 35x12.50x20 Mickey Thompson ATZ radials, AMP Research Powersteps, Magnaflow 409 Stainless catback, Diablosport Trinity power tuner.

20161107_184613.jpg

20170208_140433.jpg

2161104_174455.jpg

20161009_144137.jpg

That is very nice! Looks like more than 6" though......

  • Replies 11.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr
midwestdave33
midwestdave33

2014 6.2L LTZ Silverado SVM Mobility wheelchair conversion Aviet electronic hand control conversion 20" Black wheels/wide tires Cowl induction hood Borla Atak Exhaust. Racing harness for my whee

wikidbwoy
wikidbwoy

SLT Texas Edition bagged on 26" Intro wheels

Posted Images

Sean006 Enthusiast

Sean006

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Kurtj29 said:

You may be right. I guess we could ask @sean006 to measure the distance from ground to top of the wheel wells front and back?  That should settle it.

I’m no expert when it comes to lifts or level kits so what’s your input on this:

 

front is 40”

rear is 41.5

 

Let me know 

ftwhite Enthusiast

ftwhite

Posted
Posted (edited)

For my 2018 1500, the stock measure from center hub to fender was 21.5", and after Fox 2.0 coilovers, it came out to be 23.5". So 6" lift should be 27.5"...from hub.

From ground, tire size changes will add to lift. My 275/70 18 measure in at 38 5/8" from ground to fender.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Edited by ftwhite
cheyenne383 Enthusiast

cheyenne383

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, Kurtj29 said:

Happy New Year!  This is about as close as I can get to mud around my area. Every road is gated off. Anyone in the Redmond Washington area know of some good back roads to take?

 

 

I lived in Seattle 2010-2011 and took my 2003 Z71 up in the Snowqualmie area a bunch and had a bunch of fun on trials. Drive out I90 up past Issiquah... Tiger Mountain, Rattlesnake Mountain, and the area opposite I90 Keechelus Lake had a bunch of fun forestry roads that didn't beat my truck up too bad.

  • Like 1
2015gmc1500 New Member

2015gmc1500

Posted
Posted

The OEM chrome chipped and I wanted a cheaper replacement. I had my doubts, but I liked the end result!

411B2E4B-3441-4EF3-B634-7A13D7D77342.jpeg

2536F77C-006F-45E0-B4C2-E8C2E3849B8B.jpeg

  • Like 5
Kurtj29 Enthusiast

Kurtj29

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Sean006 said:

I’m no expert when it comes to lifts or level kits so what’s your input on this:

 

front is 40”

rear is 41.5

 

Let me know 

 

OK this is what I got compared to my stock 2018 Denali - you have a 3.5" lift on the front and 1.25" on the rear.

 

Calculations:

 

You have 33/12.5r20 tires, that puts your hub at 16.5". 

        Front=  hub to fender is 40-16.5 = 23.5"

        Rear = hub to fender is 41.5-16.5 = 25"

 

My Stock Denali measures Front = 36 and Rear = 39 13/16 on 285/45 r22 - hub is at 16.05"

       Front = hub to fender is 36-16.05 = 19.95" - let's call it 20"

       Rear = hub to fender is 39 13/16 - 16.05 = 23.75"

 

So you can see that your front is about 3.5" higher than my stock Denali and your rear is about 1.25" higher.

 

So is that a Level or a 4" lift?   What does everyone think?  Comments?

 

Edited by Kurtj29
Kurtj29 Enthusiast

Kurtj29

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, cheyenne383 said:

I lived in Seattle 2010-2011 and took my 2003 Z71 up in the Snowqualmie area a bunch and had a bunch of fun on trials. Drive out I90 up past Issiquah... Tiger Mountain, Rattlesnake Mountain, and the area opposite I90 Keechelus Lake had a bunch of fun forestry roads that didn't beat my truck up too bad.

Thanks for the advice, I will have to try that. I have to get my front raised up - my front air damn practically scraps the ground it is so dang low. Level or 4" lift is the question right now and removal of said front air damn.

  • Like 1
Sean006 Enthusiast

Sean006

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Kurtj29 said:

 

OK this is what I got compared to my stock 2018 Denali - you have a 3.5" lift on the front and 1.25" on the rear.

 

Calculations:

 

You have 33/12.5r20 tires, that puts your hub at 16.5". 

        Front=  hub to fender is 40-16.5 = 23.5"

        Rear = hub to fender is 41.5-16.5 = 25"

 

My Stock Denali measures Front = 36 and Rear = 39 13/16 on 285/45 r22 - hub is at 16.05"

       Front = hub to fender is 36-16.05 = 19.95" - let's call it 20"

       Rear = hub to fender is 39 13/16 - 16.05 = 23.75"

 

So you can see that your front is about 3.5" higher than my stock Denali and your rear is about 1.25" higher.

 

So is that a Level or a 4" lift?   What does everyone think?  Comments?

 

Does the rear difference have anything to do with the tire size ?

(Compared to your stock height)

 

and if they just added a front level kit they did a terrible job making it “level” lol 

1.5 off 

Edited by Sean006
Sean006 Enthusiast

Sean006

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, 2015gmc1500 said:

The OEM chrome chipped and I wanted a cheaper replacement. I had my doubts, but I liked the end result!

411B2E4B-3441-4EF3-B634-7A13D7D77342.jpeg

2536F77C-006F-45E0-B4C2-E8C2E3849B8B.jpeg

 

Looks great 

Which headlights ?

Did you vinyl wrap the GMC ?

2015gmc1500 New Member

2015gmc1500

Posted
Posted (edited)

Retrofit D2S swap with the 2stroke led bulbs and diode dynamics switchback led swap with klearz lenses. No vinyl, just the shells. They have been on for about 4 months, have held up great. If I keep the truck I’ll get them painted in addition to the sensors. 

Edited by 2015gmc1500
Information about lenses
Kurtj29 Enthusiast

Kurtj29

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Sean006 said:

Does the rear difference have anything to do with the tire size ?

(Compared to your stock height)

 

and if they just added a front level kit they did a terrible job making it “level” lol 

1.5 off 

I believe I took tire size into account. Remember, my truck is a Denali with the magnetic ride control suspension. That could be a difference - maybe it rides an inch lower? If so then you would have a level.

Edited by Kurtj29
14SierraAT Enthusiast

14SierraAT

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, mitchely03 said:

Lurker for a while on this forum, but now made an account. Here is my 15 Silverado 1500

 

k.thumb.jpg.6bf762ee0f3d427d9254e61a615ce5ce.jpg

Great looking truck man. Love seeing fellow de-badged tailgate folks seeing as it looks 20x better imo. 

mitchely03 Enthusiast

mitchely03

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, 14SierraAT said:

Great looking truck man. Love seeing fellow de-badged tailgate folks seeing as it looks 20x better imo. 

  Thank you!, I will say the debadged look on my truck looks 100% time better having the chrome vinyl wrapped over. Just seems like is all unison now.

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
Lurker for a while on this forum, but now made an account. Here is my 15 Silverado 1500
 
k.thumb.jpg.6bf762ee0f3d427d9254e61a615ce5ce.jpg


Let me guess: 2wd, spindle lift, 285/70r17 falkens with methods?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...