Jump to content

Made in Mexico?

Tom's LTZ

Recommended Posts

Tom's LTZ Enthusiast

Tom's LTZ

Posted
Posted

Just found out today that my LTZ was made in Mexico! I looked at the window sticker and it reads, assembled in Mexico. Thought they are made in Flint Michigan? Still love the truck, but come on GM, really?

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Tom's LTZ Enthusiast

Tom's LTZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

New to Chevy for trucks. Its no surprise to me, since Clinton did the NAFTA more and more things are coming from South of the boarder. What is made at the Flint assembly, double cabs?

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted
New to Chevy for trucks. Its no surprise to me, since Clinton did the NAFTA more and more things are coming from South of the boarder. What is made at the Flint assembly, double cabs?

 

Flint Assembly does HD trucks. Mexico builds most 1500 crew cabs and Fort Wayne does double cabs and regular cabs.

LS 1st Gen Enthusiast

LS 1st Gen

Posted
Posted

You can find the Silao Plant on Google maps at :

GM Silao Plant
Guanajuato, Mexico
20° 56.914', -101° 23.057'

Looks pretty massive.

 

Here is a streetview of the location:

Silao_zps8aac7bf5.jpg

lovemytruck Enthusiast

lovemytruck

Posted
Posted

There was an article about a month ago in the Wall Street Journal about the Mexican auto industry. Article stated that the average wage of a Mexican auto worker was $100 U.S. a week.

2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

I have had zero complaints of the build quality on my '13 Sierra built in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. When I was looking for a truck, I avoided anything that the VIN started with a "3".

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

There was an article about a month ago in the Wall Street Journal about the Mexican auto industry. Article stated that the average wage of a Mexican auto worker was $100 U.S. a week.

Then why aren't Mexican made truck sticker prices 1/2 of what US or Canadian made trucks have?

Everybody knows that the biggest expense in automobile and truck manufacturing are labor costs.

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted
There was an article about a month ago in the Wall Street Journal about the Mexican auto industry. Article stated that the average wage of a Mexican auto worker was $100 U.S. a week.

Then why aren't Mexican made truck sticker prices 1/2 of what US or Canadian made trucks have?

Everybody knows that the biggest expense in automobile and truck manufacturing are labor costs.

 

We've already answered that. GM has no obligation to pass that savings on, they probably use it to offset the absurd costs incurred due to the UAW plants here in the US.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...