Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

brawls Enthusiast

brawls

Posted
Posted

I think each truck can be different. My 2WD RCSB with 2" drop shackles needed 2° pinion shims to eliminate a 20-30 mph vibration. With the shims, the vibration is gone and the truck drives very smoothly.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

DirtyMarcus Enthusiast

DirtyMarcus

Posted
Posted

I agree, plus if you have a CC standard bed like me, you have to deal with the two piece drive shaft. From what Ive read this configuration almost always need an adjustable carrier bearing installed.

CWilliams Enthusiast

CWilliams

Posted
Posted

Does anyone happen to have a picture of the stock shackles? I bought my truck used and I'm pretty sure the guy before me put some drop shackles on it. I only have about 1.25-1.5''" of rake, while most are around 3'' from factory. That would put it around 1.5'' drop shackle, and the only company I am aware of that makes that size is Rough Country. From what I remember when looking under the truck, it has the same design as the Rough Country shackles, but I am offshore and not able to look at them right now. I am going to take the factory block out when I get back home to finish leveling it out.

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted

Here's the stock shackle on a 2016 2wd:

 

100_6179.jpg

 

The mcgaughys I got are a fair bit larger than this, I'm actually concerned I ordered the wrong thing now.

 

My main concern right now is that my 2015 has been in the shop 4 days with a bad diff, and I'm worried that if I put this on, they will tell me my wrranty is void or that my shackles are causing the issues if the problem persists.

 

But at the same time.. I dont want to look at my "slamming on brakes ALL THE TIME" profile when I'm walking to it from a parking lot.

  • Like 1
CWilliams Enthusiast

CWilliams

Posted
Posted

Awesome thanks for the photo. I'm sure the 2015 and 2016 would have the same shackle. This confirms I do have something aftermarket because my shackles are different. And yes, the drop shackle will be longer than the factory shackle. I would document the issues you are having with just the stock shackle in place with time stamped photos or something. Then if you had the same issue down the road after swapping to the drop shackles you could make a case. Not saying that would save you, but it might help. I would get the diff issue fixed first and ride it for a week or so before dropping it. Thanks again

Rymack10 Enthusiast

Rymack10

Posted
Posted

What tire size would be the biggest you can get without scrubbing if you drop the back with 2 inch shackles? I plan on eventually upgrading to 20" rims and michelin ltx tires. Just need to know what size tires to get without rubbing.

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

What tire size would be the biggest you can get without scrubbing if you drop the back with 2 inch shackles? I plan on eventually upgrading to 20" rims and michelin ltx tires. Just need to know what size tires to get without rubbing.

You will be fine. pull a tape measure and subtract 2" from current stance. I have 305-45-22 with no scrubbing.

 

RT

polarisiq93 New Member

polarisiq93

Posted
Posted

hi there I am new to the forum. I have a 2015 denali. I have the rear 2" levelling kit from mcgaughy's. I am wondering if anyone who has done it before can shed some light on what I have to do with the sensor arms ? They told me they might not be building the correct length arms for a while. I have had some people tell me that it can't be done and others tell me it can but you have to cut the sensor arms. If anyone has any knowledge on this please let me know. Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
14 Silvy Enthusiast

14 Silvy

Posted
Posted

2d2c488249c41bcaef9e040af319fc7f.jpg

 

2014 4x4 with aluminum front suspension. I used DJM 4" control arms and made a spacer to bring it up to 3.5 in front then done a 5/6 flip kit set at 5" no rubbing binding or vibrations tires are 285/45/22.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
danielsilv2 New Member

danielsilv2

Posted
Posted

2d2c488249c41bcaef9e040af319fc7f.jpg

 

2014 4x4 with aluminum front suspension. I used DJM 4" control arms and made a spacer to bring it up to 3.5 in front then done a 5/6 flip kit set at 5" no rubbing binding or vibrations tires are 285/45/22.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

good looking truck. did u buy those headlights with the corners cleared or do it yourself?

wantavant Enthusiast

wantavant

Posted
Posted

I think each truck can be different. My 2WD RCSB with 2" drop shackles needed 2° pinion shims to eliminate a 20-30 mph vibration. With the shims, the vibration is gone and the truck drives very smoothly.

 

Got any pics of yours after dropping the rear? I plan on doing the same and curious how it looks with just the 2" shackles and blocks still in?

 

Thanks!

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

Got any pics of yours after dropping the rear? I plan on doing the same and curious how it looks with just the 2" shackles and blocks still in?

 

Thanks!

LOL.... It is still hiked up in the ass! If you want close to level remove the block and add shackles. Read the post's on this!!!

 

RT

brawls Enthusiast

brawls

Posted
Posted

Got any pics of yours after dropping the rear? I plan on doing the same and curious how it looks with just the 2" shackles and blocks still in?

 

Thanks!

Here's a quick pic taken at work. I like the look of the 2" drop: there is still a slight rake but nowhere near as noticeable as before.

 

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

wantavant Enthusiast

wantavant

Posted
Posted

Here's a quick pic taken at work. I like the look of the 2" drop: there is still a slight rake but nowhere near as noticeable as before.

 

attachicon.gif2014 Chevy Silverado.jpg

 

I am the same way, I still like the slight rake as well. Looks awesome man! Thanks for the pic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,533 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...