Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

6ftdwn57 Enthusiast

6ftdwn57

Posted
Posted

great pictures billg72340. truck looks great. Who did you order from? Wondering how long it took to get out to you. I ordered mine from switchsuspension. They said it could be 10 days. I'm hoping that isnt the case. I'm from PA so not that far off from Ohio.

billg72340 Enthusiast

billg72340

Posted
Posted

great pictures billg72340. truck looks great. Who did you order from? Wondering how long it took to get out to you. I ordered mine from switchsuspension. They said it could be 10 days. I'm hoping that isnt the case. I'm from PA so not that far off from Ohio.

Thanks. Ordered mine from Summit but they had drop shipped from factory in CA. Took 5 days UPS.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

NoLand Enthusiast

NoLand

Posted
Posted

Originally I used 4 rings without the spindles and dropped 1.5" then installed the spindles and added a ring back on which gave me 3" total.

Did you do the install yourself? I've got the drop struts in the garage but am a bit worried about replacing them on my own. Heard a few horror stories about getting the right spring compressors to get the job done.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I didn't need to use a spring compressor. My weight was enough while someone screwed the top bolt on to hold it in place.

slee3247 Enthusiast

slee3247

Posted
Posted

Only thing about lowering these trucks with struts and springs in the mix, is the lower you go the front wheel moves back in the wheel well and isn't centered.

 

My front wheels are perfectly centered. However, camber is a bit of an issue after the springs have fully settled over a few thousand miles.

billg72340 Enthusiast

billg72340

Posted
Posted

Front struts are fairly easy with the right tools. I had problems getting the lower ball joints popped with a hammer and ended up borrowing a puller. Most auto parts have loaners.351c39721b0fc0da229661bbd4a2bf58.jpg01dc7d930e1384b5e7e23a5605bfbcde.jpgc2867390d33dc5748660c01458aed498.jpg7a73752ee1b5f2d5985bfa76f30005c1.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

 

My front wheels are perfectly centered. However, camber is a bit of an issue after the springs have fully settled over a few thousand miles.

Send me a side pictire

Derek66lsx Enthusiast

Derek66lsx

Posted
Posted

After reading through all 90+ pages my head hurts and I still can't make a decision.

First off I have a 14 Sierra RCSB Z71 4x4, with 285/45/22 and currently have the back leveled out with 2" shackles and the factory blocks removed, after owning it for 2 weeks and having the shackles in for 1 week it needs to go lower already haha

 

I am thinking I want to for about a 2/4 or 2/5 drop, now figuring out the best way to do that...

I was considering going with Beltech 25004 2" shocks in the front and either DJM or McGaughys 4 or 5" flip kit in the back. I might even try just the shocks first and see how it looks with my current rear setup, will have a couple inches of time but that's better then the 4+ it had before..

 

My other option is flip kit, was looking at DJM, I believe I would use RK2507-6 and since I already have 2" shackles I think that would give me a 4 or 5 inch drop correct?

Or would you recommend McGaughys flip kit over DJM? I was having a hard time finding the right part number on their site tho.

And for the back I haven't decided on a shock, I see rcsb guys saying the beltech is too stiff on our short trucks.

Other question do all flip kits require cutting off the bump stop mount? Cutting on my new truck with 9k miles makes me cringe a little but I'm sure I could get over it haha

So basically just looking for recommendations, I have been reading for days and I just want to order stuff so I can get to work on it!

Sorry for the Wall of text! Haha

Luda_chris Enthusiast

Luda_chris

Posted
Posted

What's up guys - been following y'all for years. Just got done lowering my 15 with RC 2/4.

Derek66lsx Enthusiast

Derek66lsx

Posted
Posted

Pics or it didn't happen! :P haha

 

 

I think i have a plan of attack for my truck unless someone can tell me a better alternative

 

I see lots of complaints about turning radius with drop spindles so my plan is Belltech 25004 2" drop shocks, and that way if i ever do want to go lower i could add spindles.

the only issue i have read about with those is getting proper alignment but from what i can tell a set of Belltech 4955 bushings should get it where it needs to be.

 

and for the back i think i am going to leave it with shackles and blocks removed for now, I have seen a few pics in this thread with guys with that setup and it looked good, then i think ill go with some Belltech 2212FF rear shocks, anything has got to be better the the stock rancho's

 

Thoughts on going this route? anything im missing?

 

 

Top pic is how it sits now, bottom is stock

post-173448-0-01461800-1498487014_thumb.jpg

post-173448-0-01461800-1498487014_thumb.jpg

post-173448-0-01461800-1498487014_thumb.jpg

post-173448-0-01461800-1498487014_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

If you.only have a spindle in front. Your camber won't change

Luda_chris Enthusiast

Luda_chris

Posted
Posted

I tried posting pics but it said they were too large. Tried looking all over to figure out how to do it and got nowhere..

Derek66lsx Enthusiast

Derek66lsx

Posted
Posted

If you.only have a spindle in front. Your camber won't change

 

I was leaning more towards the Belltech 2" shocks, since i want to change shocks anyway. unless there is a significant down side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...