Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

If I go any lower I can't drive it. Already damn near ride the upper inner fender if I have more than one other person in the truck. LOL

I'm at 4.5 in my rc right now my front end sits so low because I have small tires. You might want to get a smaller tire. Which will give you mkre room in the fender but also lower the truck.

 

My front valance hates me though but I'm ok with that

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

DeepBlue17 Enthusiast

DeepBlue17

Posted
Posted

I'm at 4.5 in my rc right now my front end sits so low because I have small tires. You might want to get a smaller tire. Which will give you mkre room in the fender but also lower the truck.

 

My front valance hates me though but I'm ok with that

Yeah. These are 29 inch tires in the front right now. Still have the stock 31 on the back. Doing 24s all the way around so I'm gonna end up clearancing the inner fenders some. I just ordered a 2 piece drive shaft conversion yesterday because I'm rubbing on the cross member on large bumps and I still want to go down another inch in back.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Yeah. These are 29 inch tires in the front right now. Still have the stock 31 on the back. Doing 24s all the way around so I'm gonna end up clearancing the inner fenders some. I just ordered a 2 piece drive shaft conversion yesterday because I'm rubbing on the cross member on large bumps and I still want to go down another inch in back.

You either need to tub the front fenders of run a 25 series tire in maybe. Maybe squeeze a 30 series

 

I'm running 17s 28"tire front and 30 rear

  • Like 1
UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted

Remember I told you about the tire getting pushed back into the fender well? Take a look at the inez k2 kits. They didn't even correct for that. That kit set at 4" is worse then your teuck set at 5. Ill pass on that inez kit. Most people don't look at things like that

I don't see that problem based on the pictures posted on the Inez Hotrods facebook page (see example picture below). I purchased their 3-5 kit (which I have not yet had installed). The main thing I liked about their system of replacing the control arms is that the alignment of the wheels stays true unlike using drop spindles.

 

20882393_166750353872579_856074399418406

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I don't see that problem based on the pictures posted on the Inez Hotrods facebook page (see example picture below). I purchased their 3-5 kit (which I have not yet had installed). The main thing I liked about their system of replacing the control arms is that the alignment of the wheels stays true unlike using drop spindles.

 

20882393_166750353872579_856074399418406

When you lower using springs and or struts it changes the horizontal geonomtry. Look at the space between the front of the front wheel well and the rear of the front wheel well. It already started pushing it back

JRoyPDX Enthusiast

JRoyPDX

Posted
Posted

Even my 1" drop from a belltech strut moved my wheel back. Crappy side effect.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

The upper arm is angled back some so as the suspension compresses, the wheel moves back. I think it makes for a better ride but it just looks like shit in my opinion

JRoyPDX Enthusiast

JRoyPDX

Posted
Posted

The upper arm is angled back some so as the suspension compresses, the wheel moves back. I think it makes for a better ride but it just looks like shit in my opinion

I'm limited on ways to lower a 4x4. There's no spindle that works on a 17 4x4 otherwise I would've done that with the djm arm
jlcjr5 Enthusiast

jlcjr5

Posted
Posted

2015 Crew cab LT 4x4 with Mcgaughys 2/4 kit(34100). Just traded it for a 2wd so I could go as low as i want. This was my last pic, I'm gonna miss this one. post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

2015 Crew cab LT 4x4 with Mcgaughys 2/4 kit(34100). Just traded it for a 2wd so I could go as low as i want. This was my last pic, I'm gonna miss this one. Screenshot_2017-10-06-00-27-04-1.png

You could have gone just as low with the 4wd but I prefer 2wd anyway

jlcjr5 Enthusiast

jlcjr5

Posted
Posted

You could have gone just as low with the 4wd but I prefer 2wd anyway

Not without way more work, money and wear.
  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Well not really. Only thing that's really different is the front cv shafts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,533 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...