Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I knew there were several 2wd turbo trucks out there, I hadn't seen any lowered 4wd trucks. This is good to know, lower it is!

I’m have a supercharged 4WD currently sitting at 5/7... Probably going up to 4/6 b/c of my wheels but there are a few out there running 5/7 with 295/30/26 so I may stay but we will see in a few weeks...c98bf7a55926f7c045c6f7503e8f8999.jpg
  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, at least it's just labor... If you were paying a shop to do it, it would be a bit much for 1/2". Doing it yourself makes it much easier to swallow.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

I’m have a supercharged 4WD currently sitting at 5/7... Probably going up to 4/6 b/c of my wheels but there are a few out there running 5/7 with 295/30/26 so I may stay but we will see in a few weeks...c98bf7a55926f7c045c6f7503e8f8999.jpg
That's a slick truck.

I know some guys in the diesel crowd have problems if their cv axles are at weird angles, good to know we don't have the same problem. Makes life so much easier.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
That's a slick truck.

I know some guys in the diesel crowd have problems if their cv axles are at weird angles, good to know we don't have the same problem. Makes life so much easier.


Thx Lovelessjl... With my truck being 4WD, it has been some challenges over this past year to get lowered to what I wanted but finally here. She’s going back in next week to get the 2” lowering springs so that should raise her back up a inch. I relocated the strut w/ 2” drop spindles on the front to get the 5” drop but 4 should be what I need for the 6s...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
21 minutes ago, Xpensive Chevy said:


Thx Lovelessjl... With my truck being 4WD, it has been some challenges over this past year to get lowered to what I wanted but finally here. She’s going back in next week to get the 2” lowering springs so that should raise her back up a inch. I relocated the strut w/ 2” drop spindles on the front to get the 5” drop but 4 should be what I need for the 6s...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So what spindles are you using in the front?  also what else did you do to get it down the rest of the way? 

Posted
56 minutes ago, Cardinals11 said:

9a74e93de5dbd41a1d57bd0b2d171693.jpgc6058da3f7a24e5196c42dc87cfd8375.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great!! what did you use in the front? 

Posted
So what spindles are you using in the front?  also what else did you do to get it down the rest of the way? 

MaxTrac spindles along with what I said in the post u quoted... Use a MaxTrac flip kit for the rear... Order adjustable kit form he Suspension Superstore... They coil cups that came for the front did not work so they sent me the lowering springs...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
Looks great!! what did you use in the front? 

Thanks man. New to the forum. Still figuring things out. Front has spindles and the rear is shackles but I may end up lowering the back more. Ride great though but it can rub up front if the wheel travels up too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

So I just went down to 8 in the back...and apparently had nowhere near the clearance that I thought I did, even with the c-notch. It bangs way hard. May I recommend an underbed notch to anyone who wants to go down that far? Lol.

 

Gonna give it a few weeks to decide if I'll keep it there or come back up just a little. First impression is that I can deal with it.

 

The pinion angle still needs to be adjusted, but otherwise the driveshaft should be fine. I only had a 3/4" gap before contacting the output seal after going down 6 1/2, but any change here was pretty minor.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Stressin said:

So I just went down to 8 in the back...and apparently had nowhere near the clearance that I thought I did, even with the c-notch. It bangs way hard. May I recommend an underbed notch to anyone who wants to go down that far? Lol.

 

Gonna give it a few weeks to decide if I'll keep it there or come back up just a little. First impression is that I can deal with it.

 

The pinion angle still needs to be adjusted, but otherwise the driveshaft should be fine. I only had a 3/4" gap before contacting the output seal after going down 6 1/2, but any change here was pretty minor.

What shocks do you have. Change the shocks to some adjustables and you might be ok.  Because you should be fine at 8" with a c notch.   Hoping you're a regular cab though 

Posted

So, for guys wondering about turning radius on a 4x4 lowered with spindles. Here is a demonstration with my 2016 RCSB lowered 4/6 with spindles and springs up front and a flip kit in the rear.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
57 minutes ago, Nasty said:

What shocks do you have. Change the shocks to some adjustables and you might be ok.  Because you should be fine at 8" with a c notch.   Hoping you're a regular cab though 

Belltech Street Perfomance on a double cab. That extra 500 pounds makes a bigger difference than I thought it would.

 

I forget...did you end up with Vikings or QA1's?

Posted
33 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

So, for guys wondering about turning radius on a 4x4 lowered with spindles. Here is a demonstration with my 2016 RCSB lowered 4/6 with spindles and springs up front and a flip kit in the rear.
 

 


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Tighter radius than a lot of cars. Lol.

 

Nice video.

Posted
40 minutes ago, Stressin said:

Belltech Street Perfomance on a double cab. That extra 500 pounds makes a bigger difference than I thought it would.

 

I forget...did you end up with Vikings or QA1's?

Qa1 in the rear. Which made a huge difference. And Vikings are being installed in the front after the rain stops

20180306_183906.thumb.jpg.d8bbdcc1d49485ad81ce1b0152418f48.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,537 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...