Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking to get the same kit from Belltech 6401 and from what I've read you'll need to:

  • Remove the tow hitch.
  • Bend the pinch weld on the bed to get the top shackle bolt out Or raise the bed.
  • If you want 3" you'll need to remove the 1" spacer between the leaf spring and axle.
  • If you only want 2" no need to remove spacer.
  • If removing the spacer be sure to line up the reference pin on the axle back into the leaf spring pack.
  • If you want to make things a little easier, removing the spare is optional.

 

Be sure the jack stands and jack are position correctly for optimum safety.

Posted

It would be stupid to remove the hitch but leave the spare tire in place 

Posted
29 minutes ago, qwank said:

It would be stupid to remove the hitch but leave the spare tire in place 

What is a hitch and a spare tire?

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone, new to the forum and new to this body style. Just recently upgraded to 2015 Sierra from a 2006. I love the truck but I am ready to be low again. I have read over almost this entire thread and still have questions. I want to go 4/6-4/7. Does that require a 2 pc driveshaft and notch? I believe I am going to go with the Mcgaughys 3/5-4/6-4/7 kit so I can have options. Any personal pros and cons with Mcgaughys?

truck.jpg

Edited by SlowCole
Posted
1 hour ago, SlowCole said:

Hey everyone, new to the forum and new to this body style. Just recently upgraded to 2015 Sierra from a 2006. I love the truck but I am ready to be low again. I have read over almost this entire thread and still have questions. I want to go 4/6-4/7. Does that require a 2 pc driveshaft and notch? I believe I am going to go with the Mcgaughys 3/5-4/6-4/7 kit so I can have options. Any personal pros and cons with Mcgaughys?

truck.jpg

Best for crewcab is 4/6.  Mcg is my favorite and i run it on my regular cab    you should be ok without yhr 2 peice but id look into it for future.  Reklez makes that conversion for a pretty good price

Posted
23 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Best for crewcab is 4/6.  Mcg is my favorite and i run it on my regular cab    you should be ok without yhr 2 peice but id look into it for future.  Reklez makes that conversion for a pretty good price

Awesome! I wanted to go 4/6 but I read a lot about needing a 2 pc driveshaft and notch. If they aren't required, but recommeneded, then I can go ahead and pull the trigger on the kit and work on the notch and 2 pc after that.

Posted
9 minutes ago, SlowCole said:

Awesome! I wanted to go 4/6 but I read a lot about needing a 2 pc driveshaft and notch. If they aren't required, but recommeneded, then I can go ahead and pull the trigger on the kit and work on the notch and 2 pc after that.

A notch would be nice but not needed.   Also dont use thr mcg bump stops. Get the belltech yellow sponge ones

Posted

Well got the belltech “2/4” drop on my 2018 reg cab z71. Followed directions on lowering the front which was the struts with spacers and new springs. Used only the bigger single spacer per directions and let’s just say it’s not a 2” inch drop ?‍♂️ more like 3-4”. I cant even pull over a parking spot curb without hitting front valance. Did the rear the same time as well. So I wasn’t aware of how low the front was yet. So flipped the axle on top of the spring. Knocked factory rear hangers off put belltechs hangers on in bottom 4 holes with their shackle which should be a 4” drop. Which I think really was a 4” drop it’s just the front was so low it made the rake look ridiculous. So put factory shackles on it to give it a 5” drop which helped out with the stupid rake. Also I had to cut tailpipe off because leaf springs would be right in the way of its factory exit location. Any else have to do that to the exhaust?

 

 

Factory ride height

94dc205133f90ccb174b3ccff996cb39.jpg

 

“2”/4”” drop

de039acb8da39329c209bedda2480c2a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Breedsrt said:

Well got the belltech “2/4” drop on my 2018 reg cab z71. Followed directions on lowering the front which was the struts with spacers and new springs. Used only the bigger single spacer per directions and let’s just say it’s not a 2” inch drop ?‍♂️ more like 3-4”. I cant even pull over a parking spot curb without hitting front valance. Did the rear the same time as well. So I wasn’t aware of how low the front was yet. So flipped the axle on top of the spring. Knocked factory rear hangers off put belltechs hangers on in bottom 4 holes with their shackle which should be a 4” drop. Which I think really was a 4” drop it’s just the front was so low it made the rake look ridiculous. So put factory shackles on it to give it a 5” drop which helped out with the stupid rake. Also I had to cut tailpipe off because leaf springs would be right in the way of its factory exit location. Any else have to do that to the exhaust?

 

 

Factory ride height

94dc205133f90ccb174b3ccff996cb39.jpg

 

“2”/4”” drop

de039acb8da39329c209bedda2480c2a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Explain what you did in front please. And give me a .measurement fron center of hub to bottom of fender lip 

Posted
Explain what you did in front please. And give me a .measurement fron center of hub to bottom of fender lip 


18” from center of hub to lip of fender on front and 20.5” on rear.

So the kit that got sent to me was the 987SP
Which contained individual parts kits. P# 25004 Which is the lift/lowering struts, also in the big box was a pair of belltech coil springs. So I put together the new struts with the single 10mm spacer ring “see picture below on instructions for 2inch drop so you don’t have to search for it” and the new coil spring provided with factory spring isolator assembly up top. I wish they had one big instruction manual for the 987sp kit.

86160c3591ac5aa1f3de1afb347f8ce9.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
3 minutes ago, Breedsrt said:

 


18” from center of hub to lip of fender on front and 20.5” on rear.

So the kit that got sent to me was the 987SP
Which contained individual parts kits. P# 25004 Which is the lift/lowering struts, also in the big box was a pair of belltech coil springs. So I put together the new struts with the single 10mm spacer ring “see picture below on instructions for 2inch drop so you don’t have to search for it” and the new coil spring provided with factory spring isolator assembly up top. I wish they had one big instruction manual for the 987sp kit.

86160c3591ac5aa1f3de1afb347f8ce9.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

All you have is 1 ring in each strut? And youre using thr spring as well?

Posted
Just now, Breedsrt said:

 


That is correct


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ya you messed up.  1 big ring only is 2" of drop. And the spring ot came with is another 2" 

Posted
Ya you messed up.  1 big ring only is 2" of drop. And the spring ot came with is another 2" 

 

Sheet!!! I guess I shoulda looked at it more. Probably would have seen the springs were shorter than factory one. I was kinda in a hurry. How would you go about bringing it back up? Just add 4 rings on top of the single ring on them now that would make it a “factory ride height” and use the belltech coil? Or take that coil off and put factory on?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, Breedsrt said:

 

Sheet!!! I guess I shoulda looked at it more. Probably would have seen the springs were shorter than factory one. I was kinda in a hurry. How would you go about bringing it back up? Just add 4 rings on top of the single ring on them now that would make it a “factory ride height” and use the belltech coil? Or take that coil off and put factory on?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How i would do it is put 2 rings in front bringing it up to 3" drop.  And then drop the ass end 1 more inch making it a 3/5 drop but thats just me

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...