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2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
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KEEPS808 Enthusiast

KEEPS808

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Maiden69 said:

Well, I was on the fence on the Belltech coilover kit for a while now... but the design for me has the same flaws as their struts. They use the filler spring to take up the space of the extra shock travel, which to me is not ideal for a truck. I have installed some of those on cars (KW brand mostly, as KW is the maker of the new Belltech coilover) with good results. Also, they are non adjustable, their old set of adjustable was sold for over $900. For that price I would go for Viking or QA1 anyday. Now they did had single coil coilovers, I wonder why they changed the design to the KW one. 

 

What setting are you running yours? I'm doing 10/15, and I am still rubbing the stupid fender inserts on some occasions, and I am not as low as you are right now. I'm at a 3/5 drop. I wish Viking made the 12" springs in 650 or 700lb. I just downloaded their catalog and they go up to 600. 

I have mine at 10/10 I used to eat up my fender inserts and bottom out on dips n such if I didn’t slow down. Since I’ve had the vikings on I don’t bottom out at all. Yea my truck is pretty slammed.  My fender inserts are torn up from when I had the belltechs. It’s seriously a night and day difference between the belltechs and Vikings. 

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Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

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Maiden69 Enthusiast

Maiden69

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, KEEPS808 said:

I have mine at 10/10 I used to eat up my fender inserts and bottom out on dips n such if I didn’t slow down. Since I’ve had the vikings on I don’t bottom out at all. Yea my truck is pretty slammed.  My fender inserts are torn up from when I had the belltechs. It’s seriously a night and day difference between the belltechs and Vikings. 

I agree. Night and day difference. Which shocks they sent you? I got the C209 with the 12” 600lb coils. If I’m by myself in the truck I rub on big dips on the road, but with the wife and daughter it rubs quite often. I saw some pics on that Atomic website and the red springs they show there look a lot thicker than the ones I have on. I’m going to shop around on QA1 site to see if I can find some 700lb springs to try out. Viking recommend offsetting the compression/rebound at least 4 clicks more on the rebound. I’ll try bringing it down and see how it behaves. 

KEEPS808 Enthusiast

KEEPS808

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Maiden69 said:

I agree. Night and day difference. Which shocks they sent you? I got the C209 with the 12” 600lb coils. If I’m by myself in the truck I rub on big dips on the road, but with the wife and daughter it rubs quite often. I saw some pics on that Atomic website and the red springs they show there look a lot thicker than the ones I have on. I’m going to shop around on QA1 site to see if I can find some 700lb springs to try out. Viking recommend offsetting the compression/rebound at least 4 clicks more on the rebound. I’ll try bringing it down and see how it behaves. 

I have Viking c217 shocks and Viking 10" 850lb Springs. I’ll try upping my rebound to 14 then. But the 10/10 has been good. 

Maiden69 Enthusiast

Maiden69

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, KEEPS808 said:

I have Viking c217 shocks and Viking 10" 850lb Springs. I’ll try upping my rebound to 14 then. But the 10/10 has been good. 

I think that’s why you don’t bottom down. You’re running 250lb more in your springs. I think I’m going to get the 750lb that Eibach sells and run those. 

KEEPS808 Enthusiast

KEEPS808

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, Maiden69 said:

I think that’s why you don’t bottom down. You’re running 250lb more in your springs. I think I’m going to get the 750lb that Eibach sells and run those. 

Yea when you order from atomic he asks you to measure the distance between the center of your rim to the bottom of your fender and he determines what parts he’ll send. That’s why I went with him instead of twisted. 

  • Like 1
_lowlife_ Enthusiast

_lowlife_

Posted
Posted

Just lowered my truck and I have a few questions.. With the Rough Country 2/4 kit, it comes with a flip kit and lift hangers.. I opted to not install the hangers and go with the full drop of a flip kit. Will my pinion angles be off since the kit is advertised as a 4” rear drop and I went 7”?

 

Also the front drop consisted of a strut relocation bracket. Also included were camber plates. My question is, are these necessary for alignment? I didn’t have time to put them on and I am wondering if my truck will hold an alignment without those plates. 
I attached before and after pics. Better pictures to come and also 2” spindles coming soon!

It sits 1 3/8” higher in the front now

2A50DD1B-C871-41E4-9D03-68A9133CE607.thumb.jpeg.d7f63a1cbae636961fe646357c9e7e93.jpegThis is with the factory block removedE5E18269-70A6-4A5F-AAEA-B4FFF24DB0B5.thumb.jpeg.1cfb5b8d0c2ab58e6b33c131203689ff.jpegThis is after I did the strut relocation and 7” flip kit

Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted

If the front can't be aligned, then yes they are required. If it can be, then no.

As for the pinion alignment, as soon as you take it for a drive you know if it needs shims. It'll have a vibration, if it doesn't, then you are probably fine. 

At 7" you'll probably bottom out, you'll likely need a notch. And check your tail shaft to drive shaft engagement, you may need to shorten the driveshaft. Or everytime you hit a bump the suspension could be shoving the driveshaft into the tail housing, eventually this will break something. 

And does rough countrys lowing kit, still mount the front strut under the lower control arm? If so, I'd get belltech drop struts and get rid of that garbage. 

KEEPS808 Enthusiast

KEEPS808

Posted
Posted

My alignment was off once and the alignment shops told me the camber plates won’t do anything. They said to get the offset camber bushings or some companies sell upper control arms to get your alignment to spec. 

_lowlife_ Enthusiast

_lowlife_

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, KEEPS808 said:

My alignment was off once and the alignment shops told me the camber plates won’t do anything. They said to get the offset camber bushings or some companies sell upper control arms to get your alignment to spec. 

I have been looking at some camber correction uppers. Will probably get some when I get my 2” spindles

_lowlife_ Enthusiast

_lowlife_

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 1/28/2020 at 4:12 AM, Daly said:

If the front can't be aligned, then yes they are required. If it can be, then no.

As for the pinion alignment, as soon as you take it for a drive you know if it needs shims. It'll have a vibration, if it doesn't, then you are probably fine. 

At 7" you'll probably bottom out, you'll likely need a notch. And check your tail shaft to drive shaft engagement, you may need to shorten the driveshaft. Or everytime you hit a bump the suspension could be shoving the driveshaft into the tail housing, eventually this will break something. 

And does rough countrys lowing kit, still mount the front strut under the lower control arm? If so, I'd get belltech drop struts and get rid of that garbage. 

I haven’t taken it to get an alignment yet. When I drove it after I was done, it drove just as straight as from the factory, it just has negative camber.

And if I’m not mistaken, these trucks can handle 7” of drop in the rear without requiring a notch. I will say that it hasn’t bottomed out and I haven’t felt any hard jarring or slamming as if the rear end was trying to get shoved back. 
 

And yes, this is the rough country kit with strut relocation. 

Edited by _lowlife_
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WHITESSTOWPIG Enthusiast

WHITESSTOWPIG

Posted
Posted

Wanted to share some tips for guys on here with lowered Regular Cabs looking for a smoother ride.After trying the typical things like more weight in the bed and lower tire pressures I decided the ride was still too stiff so I tried going from stock front shocks with 3" drop spacers to full Belltech coilovers and it was expensive but did nothing at all for ride quality.The biggest improvements were all in the rear going from the Belltech SP Street Performance shocks everyone on here runs to Belltechs Nitro 2 shocks instead.This made a big difference in my RCSB and if you want it even softer rear shock extenders with the Nitro 2s are even better

  • 3 weeks later...
grav898 Enthusiast

grav898

Posted
Posted (edited)

Before and After install of Belltech 2" drop shackles (leaf spring spacer block NOT removed) Bilstein 5100 rear shocks installed in both pictures. Thought some of you may be interested in as close of an identical side by side shot as I could get. 

 

btw...LOVE how it looks now compared to before. Left the block in because i tow things from time to time and didn't want too much squat. Also, best part about doing this mod is that the tailgate is now a much better height for me, at 6'3". I can't imagine how it must be loading one of these trucks, modded or not, for anyone shorter.

Before.jpg

After.jpg

Edited by grav898
Nucdancer01 New Member

Nucdancer01

Posted
Posted

First post, after a lot of searching...

Planning on picking up a RCSB Silverado, 2016, Z71.

Need to tow up to about 6klbs. Not opposed to helper air bags, but want truck dead level unloaded, with enough drop to be recognized, but still enough room for 22x10, -24ish offset, preferably a 12.50 mud terrain. Doesn’t have to be 12.50, but I want wide without stretch.. and with a strong shoulder of a mud terrain.

I think it’s on the outskirts of possible, with a little trimming, and think a 2/4 or 2/5 would be best option.

Problem is that I see some kits at 2/4 level, and some kits with 5” rear drop still with a ton of rake. I know there are tolerances and all, but on average-what rear drop gives dead level rear on a 2” front drop?

Or do you think this is unreasonable, and I should just drop the rear level and run 33x12.50s on 22x10 with stock front end?


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