Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Using lowering shocks throws the camber and toe way out. My camber was at -1.9 degrees on both side and the wheels toed out big time with the drop shocks.

I misunderstood. I thought you just lowered the back because you said shocks. The front are struts. You meant struts

Posted

I misunderstood. I thought you just lowered the back because you said shocks. The front are struts. You meant struts

 

Yes.

Posted (edited)

Just finished up installing McGaughy's 2" drop shackles. Easy enough to do. One thing I learned that may be of some use to the next person doing the shackle installation and it may have been mentioned. Loosen the two rear bolts where the bed it mounted to the frame. Then when you are jacking the diff up it will lift the bed and allow you to remove the bolt WITHOUT having to bend the rib that is above the leaf springs. My son came over and helped me button things up and that made it go real quick. At this point I am happy with things.

 

Rear As found measurements from ground to center of wheel well.

Drivers side 39 3/8"

Passengers 39 1/2"

 

Rear As left

Drivers side 38"

Passengers 37 15/16"

 

Front As Found, no changes made here

Drivers side 36 1/2"

Passengers 36 5/8"

 

It may settle some more not sure. But I just snugged the bolts in the shackles. I wanted to put a few miles on it before torquing.

 

I saw earlier in this thread that the torque is 85 ft.lbs. with an additional 90 degrees. Can anyone confirm this?

Edited by Eddie 70
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've gone through this whole thread, has anyone lowered the back of their truck by just removing the block. Specifically a crew cab. Everything I find is with the block removed and drop shackles. I think that will be far to much drop on my truck and would like to see if anyone has only puller the block.

Posted

First thing I did was just remove the block. Lowers it a little, but not much.

Posted

Is there a rear shackle drop that can give me around 1/2" of drop. I have a 4.5" lift with fox coils up front and rear bds leafs with no rear blocks and fox shocks. My rear end is about 1/4" higher out back. I want to be a little higher up front and would rather use a drop shackle in the rear as long as it doesn't affect rear travel.

Posted

Is there a rear shackle drop that can give me around 1/2" of drop. I have a 4.5" lift with fox coils up front and rear bds leafs with no rear blocks and fox shocks. My rear end is about 1/4" higher out back. I want to be a little higher up front and would rather use a drop shackle in the rear as long as it doesn't affect rear travel.

Most shackles are in one inch increments. You could always remove one of the overload leafs to get the 1/2 inch thickness they are.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

First thing I did was just remove the block. Lowers it a little, but not much.

I don't want a lot of drop just a little. Being a crew cab, I don't think mine looks like it sits up as high as a regular cab does from factory. The length of the truck makes the factory rake less noticeable.

 

My next question is which OEM u bolts will work with the block out. I thought I read somewhere the 99-02 or something 2wd u bolts are the right length for a leaf and axle with out the block.

Posted

One u bolts work. But you sit just as high as a regular cab. Pull the block and do a shackle. But you'll want more

Posted

I don't want a lot of drop just a little. Being a crew cab, I don't think mine looks like it sits up as high as a regular cab does from factory. The length of the truck makes the factory rake less noticeable.

 

My next question is which OEM u bolts will work with the block out. I thought I read somewhere the 99-02 or something 2wd u bolts are the right length for a leaf and axle with out the block.

2017 Silverado CCSB with 2 inch shackles and moved the block from under the leaf Springs to the top for a total of 3 inches. add16e2c6b3d289b2801b0326dfccf89.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted

Why put the block on top of the leaf spring, it's not doing anything there. Why not just remove it.

Posted (edited)

One u bolts work. But you sit just as high as a regular cab. Pull the block and do a shackle. But you'll want more

Yes, it's the same 1.25" of lift, but the angle the truck sits at is different from a regular cab to a crew cab. It'll look a lot more extreme on a regular cab than a crew cab.

 

And what do you mean one u bolts work?

Edited by Daly
Posted

I ended up putting in a set of Belltech struts in the front of my truck,

so im sitting at 2" drop in the front and a little over 3" in the back with shackles and blocks removed from the back.

 

It still sits a bit high for my liking in the back, but it sounds like to go any lower I would need to go to a flip kit, havent decided yet if i want to do that, don't really like the idea of cutting on such a new vehicle, do any kits require less cutting then others?

I really only want to go down another inch or so..

 

And any recomendations on rear shocks for a regular cab? I hear a lot of people say everything is designed for the heavier crew cabs and ride rough on the regular cabs, the front belltech rides much better then the stock rancho's, was thinking of going with the belltech street performance 2212FF.

 

anyway hers a pic of how it sits now

post-173448-0-64954800-1503694129_thumb.jpg

post-173448-0-64954800-1503694129_thumb.jpg

post-173448-0-64954800-1503694129_thumb.jpg

post-173448-0-64954800-1503694129_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

I ended up putting in a set of Belltech struts in the front of my truck,

so im sitting at 2" drop in the front and a little over 3" in the back with shackles and blocks removed from the back.

 

It still sits a bit high for my liking in the back, but it sounds like to go any lower I would need to go to a flip kit, havent decided yet if i want to do that, don't really like the idea of cutting on such a new vehicle, do any kits require less cutting then others?

I really only want to go down another inch or so..

 

And any recomendations on rear shocks for a regular cab? I hear a lot of people say everything is designed for the heavier crew cabs and ride rough on the regular cabs, the front belltech rides much better then the stock rancho's, was thinking of going with the belltech street performance 2212FF.

 

anyway hers a pic of how it sits now

The only thing you cut off is the bump stop bracket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • These show the problem and symptoms, and I explain things too. to clarify again, I did not change over any computers or wiring (with the exception of the map sensor). All of the computers and wiring are original to the 2010 vehicle   video 1 - background info/explanation and part of the problem   video 2, idle misfire   I think the reason that the MAP sensor is reading High is because the engine is misfiring so there is less vacuum...   Additionally there's a p0102 for the MAF low frequency, and a p0108 for the map high voltage.        Again, apologies for the somewhat long-winded explanation, it's a rather difficult problem to explain without going into the details. 
    • You'd want the Pulsar to be safe.  That was the first product that worked for 10 speed trucks that they came out with.   Range Technology 22451 Pulsar LT for 2019-2022 GM Gas Trucks     That said, in the features description of the RA003B, it does list it working with 10 speeds.  However there are reports that the RA003B can cause some drivability issues on early 10 speeds.  So the Pulsar is the safest move IMO.      Range Technology RA003B AFM/DFM Disabler   Features: Range AFM/DFM Disabler keeps you in full power 100% of the time Simply plug into your onboard OBD-II port and it instantly begins working to eliminate the AFM system Disables Auto Start/Stop Blue LEDs The Range AFM/DFM Disabler does not reprogram factory ECU Works in hundreds of applications, 2007-2022, including 10-speed models. Leaves no trace, unplug it to return to factory settings Virtually no battery draw Fits all V6 and V8 General Motors (GM) active or dynamic fuel management vehicles, includes cars, trucks, and SUVs This device does not support the 2022.5+ Refresh model trucks or 2021+ SUVs To confirm your 2022 model truck is compatible with this unit, check your VIN. The 12th digit in an early model must be a '4' or lower Made in USA
    • I have a 2019 new body style high country with a 6.2l L87 and a 10 speed transmission code MQB. Looking for a disabler that is compatible. Most show it’s not. I watched a video on utube from Dons Life that says Ranges RA003B is compatible but when you go to Ranges website and check compatibility it only has a 8L90 trans listed which is an 8 speed.  I don’t want to buy the wrong one. Anyone have any experience with this situation?
    • This actually happened. Be careful where you get your information re: gas price trends.  
    • I understand the principle...you don't want to spend $150 for a $0.02 piece of plastic or a little screw and perch thingy.   But this is a problem that looks like it can be reliably solved with a zip tie.   That might hold you over until you can score one at a pick-a-parts yard.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...