Jump to content

2014+ Power Tailgate Lock installed

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

Not sure, but it comes in the kit, so why not.

Yes, it is. As I recall, the plunger on the solenoid pushes on the new cam arm and allows you to manually unlock with your key. Stock cam arm will not eggage the solenoid.

  • Replies 259
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock Part #: PL8140 http://www.popandlock.net/Power_Tailgate_Lock/Power_GM_Tailgate_Lock/Power_Sierra?product_id=141     1) Unlock & lower tailgate.   2) Remov

fondupot
fondupot

Here is my video tutorial, enjoy.    

black-n-gold
black-n-gold

Just finished installation. Took me a little longer due to being very meticulous about routing the wiring harness. I used a different method of connecting the wires though. I routed my wires all the w

Posted Images

kc61 New Member

kc61

Posted
Posted

Yes, it is. As I recall, the plunger on the solenoid pushes on the new cam arm and allows you to manually unlock with your key. Stock cam arm will not eggage the solenoid.

Correct, mine just takes a little click to the left or right to lock or unlock.

Bonker Enthusiast

Bonker

Posted
Posted

Correct, mine just takes a little click to the left or right to lock or unlock.

That is correct

  • 2 weeks later...
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I

 

When I was finished, I found that I couldn't lock the tailgate with the key. After investigating, I found the new C-clip was moving with the key, causing the locking mechanism to flip to unlock when I returned the key to 12 o'clock to remove it.

 

The fix: I had to remove the C-clip and re-install it so that the mouth of the C-clip was facing "down" towards the hinge point of the tailgate. Originally I had the mouth of the C-clip facing "up." Hope that helps someone on their install.

 

Thanks again to a great thread.

 

 

Im installing mine right now and was having this exact issue. Glad I came to this thread to read through it again.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Alright so what the hell. Im so annoyed right now.

 

I've tried the biggest brown/yellow with the biggest solid grey.

 

I've tried the biggest brown/yellow with the biggest grey/green

 

I've tried a slightly smaller brown/yellow with the biggest solid grey.

 

I've tried the slightly smaller brown/yellow with the biggest grey/green.

 

I cannot get this thing to work. the actuator does absolutely squat. NOTHING. What am I doing wrong?

 

 

EDIT:

Finally got it working. Screw those little scotchlocks things. No good. I just did a similar connection as Crf450r420 in post #81. I stripped a bit of the wire off and then connected the blue and greens directly. Works like a charm.

Edited by fondupot
  • Like 1
Dunc Enthusiast

Dunc

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is this possible if there is the linex spray in liner already installed from the factory? I haven't looked yet, but I would think the linex is sprayed over the bolts and I wouldn't be able to remove that tailgate panel.

 

EDIT: Nevermind, the factory doesn't go over the bolts.

Edited by Dunc
szalkerous Enthusiast

szalkerous

Posted
Posted

Is this possible if there is the linex spray in liner already installed from the factory? I haven't looked yet, but I would think the linex is sprayed over the bolts and I wouldn't be able to remove that tailgate panel.

 

EDIT: Nevermind, the factory doesn't go over the bolts.

No decent body shop doing bed spray (Line-X, Rhino Liner, etc.) should cover access panel bolts. If they do, refuse the job and make them fix it.

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
kc61 New Member

kc61

Posted
Posted

Installed my pop & lock today on my new 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab standard box SLT and it went great. Thank you to Motomedic and all who contributed to this thread. It helped a lot!

 

I decided to go with pressing the unlock on the keyfob twice to unlock the tailgate. Here's the wiring that worked:

- vehicle's fat brown with yellow stripe attached to the green pop & lock wire

- vehicle's fat gray with green stripe attached to the blue pop & lock wire

 

When I was finished, I found that I couldn't lock the tailgate with the key. After investigating, I found the new C-clip was moving with the key, causing the locking mechanism to flip to unlock when I returned the key to 12 o'clock to remove it.

 

The fix: I had to remove the C-clip and re-install it so that the mouth of the C-clip was facing "down" towards the hinge point of the tailgate. Originally I had the mouth of the C-clip facing "up." Hope that helps someone on their install.

 

Thanks again to a great thread.

I rewired mine Saturday to this method, works great. I think the lock will last longer using this method.

 

Thanks

f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted

Here is my video tutorial, enjoy.

 

 

Thank you sir and for all the great people here who share their stories with such details. Greatly appreciated.

  • Like 1
sugarjohnson Enthusiast

sugarjohnson

Posted
Posted

Got mine installed tonight 1 hour total. Thanks to all who posted made wiring very easy.

 

Now for the bad. I snapped the black cover that covers the wire bundle. Yeah the pain in the ass one! I have gone through every part diagram on GM Parts direct and can't find the darn thing anywhere. Not the end of the world still snaps on and holds the sill plate fine.

 

Any help is appreciated to locate this part #

  • Like 1
sharper Enthusiast

sharper

Posted
Posted

In case this can help someone I'll post some pics from my install. The wires are the thicker ones if there are some the same color. I used my girl's sewing pins to poke into the wire and test before making my final install. I then pull back the insulation and wrap the wires onto the factory wire. Then solder them up before wrapping them with silicone tape and zip ties to make sure it never comes loose.

Thank you - the pics and info were invaluable.

  • Like 1
sharper Enthusiast

sharper

Posted
Posted

Mine rattles in there like a son of a gun

Is that bolt secured tightly? Both pieces of that cam thingy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • asilverblazer
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
    • Atlas
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Atlas · Posted

      The use of absolutes like "always" to describe gear selection, and giving free advice at a boat ramp sounds like a recipe for disaster. It's a boat ramp, not a farm, for starters.   IMO gear selection should depend on the obstacle. If low range is working and this is a slower speed, controlled ordeal, I'd keep using that.
    • diyer2
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I had a boat for many years, never had a problem even with a 2 wheel drive 93 Silvy for 20 years. Good tires, proper use of the gas pedal worked.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...