Jump to content

Center console swap?

quickvert1

By quickvert1
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted

Did the old part number for the Synthesis With 110 change from 22995086 to the above shown 23467113?

 

I am needing the Synthesis W/110

 

Seems the numbers aren't the same from what I've read throughout this thread.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

darkfox1
darkfox1

OK.. mine's in.   Here's a writeup, cos I haven't seen one so far.   1. remove the "ash tray" and cig. ligther in your dash with 3 t-10 torx screws, and 2 clips. 2. Remove the radio trim, clips i

dla
dla

I always wanted a RCSB with buckets and a center console...   Received and installed mine yesterday. Very straight forward, thanks for all who posted instructions and part numbers.   Possibly to h

o7bodybagged
o7bodybagged

Finally the console is complete now ready for the install and see what other problems I run into

Posted Images

MWZotti Enthusiast

MWZotti

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did the old part number for the Synthesis With 110 change from 22995086 to the above shown 23467113?

 

I am needing the Synthesis W/110

 

Seems the numbers aren't the same from what I've read throughout this thread.

 

22995086 does not pull up any parts from the GM Parts Direct website. Could be an old part that has since been updated. I do recall some of the original console part numbers being updated since the beginning of this thread. Best thing to do, as others have said, is to go to the dealer and find a truck with the console you want and have the parts person pull all the numbers for you.

 

The picture of the upper trim was snippet from the website today. You can do the same search at any of these sites and then click on the part to see if it is still a valid number.

 

post-151487-0-10925600-1458496813_thumb.png

post-151487-0-10925600-1458496813_thumb.png

post-151487-0-10925600-1458496813_thumb.png

post-151487-0-10925600-1458496813_thumb.png

Edited by MWZotti
falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is the info I found on the 2 different part numbers. There is nothing specific in the details provided by GM parts direct. So without having them side by side it is hard to say what the differences are.

 

Have you ordered the console yet? I am thinking maybe the difference is a lot of the newer center console I have seen on the lot do not have the SD Card port on that cluster .... still has the 2 USB's and AUX port but no SD slot anymore. Just a guess. That would be better for me if so cause my jumpseat does not have the SD card slot.

 

Sure wish I knew the difference between them so I can make sure I am getting exactly the one I should use based on my current jumpseats configuration.

 

 

On the other parts I Found this .......

 

* Part Number was superceded! Quick Order Old Part Number 22995086 New Part Number 23467113 .......So this is the new Part# for the Top plate (synthesis w/110)

 

I also found this about the part number for the right side panel .... I was aware that it was 22817349 ... but it has now changed as well .....

 

* Part Number was superceded! Quick Order Old Part Number 22817349 New Part Number 23467516

 

(But the left side is still the same #22817347)

 

This all shows when entering in parts #'s at GM Parts Online.net

Edited by falconman515
falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted (edited)

One thing I would really like to get clarification on more then anything is the wiring.

From what I gather from reading the front 12V and 110V plugs just transfer over to the from top plate ports and you end up with one 12V and the 3 USB's not working right? This is fine for me.

But the harness end piece is different from the old jumps seat to this new full console right? So from what I gather is you must cut of the old harness end about a foot back (to help keep some wiring for splicing) and then also cut the end of the new one (that is a different shape of course is the reason why) and now splice together the new consoles wiring into the old harness end piece right?

And if this is correct my question is are all the wiring colors and stripes the same for both? Do you just match em up, splice em together based on solid and strip color on wire and your good to go? And now all the inner console connections and single rear 12v will work???

Any left over wiring? From what I see on the diagram there should only be one wire left and he is saying I should connect that wire somewhere to get the LED lid light working? I just add extra wir to this and run it the front 12V and put on a wire tap there? Is that how I do this?

Just don't want to cut if both harness end and not know what wire is what when splicing it all back together on the new console wiring harness with the old end piece.

 

And can I just use wire butts for all of this or do I have to solder? (no good with that but I can learn) .... if so do I use like a heat shrink tube around each wire after I solder them together?

 

And from what I can see the USB wire just needs to be swapped right? no splicing needed there?

 

Hope this makes sense as this is the thing I'm very unsure of ... I am VERY bad at electrical so this is the one thing I need and extra hand hold on if possible.

Thanks for all the help guys! :)

 

post-137340-0-93682900-1419293381.jpg

Edited by falconman515
falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted (edited)

Seems the 2016's have all new part numbers I found out ... At least for the full console and top trim kit. Console I think is due to all the new 16's have the built in phone pad on the top lid now, every single LTZ on the lot had it so I assume that is just a stock accessory in all new higher end GM's

 

New Center console with charging lid Part# 84017232

So of course the console is a new part number and the synthesis top trim kit etc. as well is a new part number ... Not sure about the rest.

 

New top plate Synthesis part# 84024929

I'm wondering if ordering these older parts if there will be a combatibilty issue with my 16'??? But my 16 doesn't have the charging lid in the jumpseat (none of them do in fact).

 

I think my best bet here is to just got with the standard older parts#'s stated here. Hell i dunno!!! :(

Edited by falconman515
falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted

One thing I have noticed that in my jumpseat my under the lid tiny media block only has 2 USB's and the AUX port and it has No SD card slot like many other 14 and 15's I have seen.

And I noticed all the 16' LTZ's in the lot no longer have it either on the full size consoles. I think 16' did away with that.

 

Soo ... If I buy the older console and hook it all up with there be an issue with wiring since the full size console I buy has the SD slot but my current jumpseat does not?

 

Anyone did this swap that didn't have an SD slot in their old jumpseat console? But wiring was not issue I. The new full console that had it? (I know the SD will not work on the new full size console, my worry is wiring issues is all, not looking to actually have it work)

 

Thank so much if anyone can help with my question here along with one above about wiring, the harnesses etc.

falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted

can someone tell me if this is the correct GM USB data cable part #? ACDelco 20953897

 

If my information is correct the GM Data USB cable you are referring to is Part# 19303328

falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted

One thing I would really like to get clarification on more then anything is the wiring.

 

From what I gather from reading the front 12V and 110V plugs just transfer over to the from top plate ports and you end up with one 12V and the 3 USB's not working right? This is fine for me.

 

But the harness end piece is different from the old jumps seat to this new full console right? So from what I gather is you must cut of the old harness end about a foot back (to help keep some wiring for splicing) and then also cut the end of the new one (that is a different shape of course is the reason why) and now splice together the new consoles wiring into the old harness end piece right?

 

And if this is correct my question is are all the wiring colors and stripes the same for both? Do you just match em up, splice em together based on solid and strip color on wire and your good to go? And now all the inner console connections and single rear 12v will work???

 

Any left over wiring? From what I see on the diagram there should only be one wire left and he is saying I should connect that wire somewhere to get the LED lid light working? I just add extra wir to this and run it the front 12V and put on a wire tap there? Is that how I do this?

 

Just don't want to cut if both harness end and not know what wire is what when splicing it all back together on the new console wiring harness with the old end piece.

 

And can I just use wire butts for all of this or do I have to solder? (no good with that but I can learn) .... if so do I use like a heat shrink tube around each wire after I solder them together?

 

And from what I can see the USB wire just needs to be swapped right? no splicing needed there?

 

Hope this makes sense as this is the thing I'm very unsure of ... I am VERY bad at electrical so this is the one thing I need and extra hand hold on if possible.

 

Thanks for all the help guys! :)

 

post-137340-0-93682900-1419293381.jpg

 

 

One thing I have noticed that in my jumpseat my under the lid tiny media block only has 2 USB's and the AUX port and it has No SD card slot like many other 14 and 15's I have seen.

And I noticed all the 16' LTZ's in the lot no longer have it either on the full size consoles. I think 16' did away with that.

 

Soo ... If I buy the older console and hook it all up with there be an issue with wiring since the full size console I buy has the SD slot but my current jumpseat does not?

 

Anyone did this swap that didn't have an SD slot in their old jumpseat console? But wiring was not issue I. The new full console that had it? (I know the SD will not work on the new full size console, my worry is wiring issues is all, not looking to actually have it work)

 

Thank so much if anyone can help with my question here along with one above about wiring, the harnesses etc.

 

 

Anyone have any thoughts on my recent questions quoted above?

 

Still unsure on wiring for the most part and not sure if I should be buying the newest version console for my 16' or not ... then how wiring will work after that.

 

Once I get a better grasp on this wiring stuff I will be more apt to pull the trigger and order one once I also figure out if I should just spend the extra $175 on the newest version console with the charging pad in the lid and also the inside media block not having the SD anymore like my current jumpseat.

 

Still just unsure on what I want to do there and also unsure about this wiring situation and exactly how it all works.

 

Thanks again for any and all help you can provide here or via PM. ;)

vettecowboy78 Enthusiast

vettecowboy78

Posted
Posted

For anyone interested. I'm selling the black cloth jump seat that came in my 2015 Sierra SLE. $100 plus $30 shipping. Was only in the truck for three months before I swapped it out using all the help provided in this thread. Thank you guys!!! Below are some pictures. Comes with jump seat, dash panel and dash support leg cover.

 

2fcf1d44603e4f5dbd72cdd295d6d78e.jpgfb3a74b244a6ea685307479598b54065.jpg04ad493a12d76ac71b6f1e9882b0f756.jpg1df8f673a445f8c9c9842b02cb0caf67.jpg855d4ec84851f8cc79057179e294dfd6.jpg035e85947300ea7636d8745b1ba54b3a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

post-153849-145936767439_thumb.jpg

post-153849-145936767439_thumb.jpg

post-153849-145936767439_thumb.jpg

post-153849-145936767439_thumb.jpg

keywest New Member

keywest

Posted
Posted (edited)

ok first post i read this whole thread and now i think i have made a horrible mistake. I ordered a 2015 oem sierra console off of Ebay and a upper trim assembly and they do not fit together?

post-156556-0-49122300-1459556531_thumb.jpg

post-156556-0-49122300-1459556531_thumb.jpg

post-156556-0-49122300-1459556531_thumb.jpg

post-156556-0-49122300-1459556531_thumb.jpg

Edited by keywest

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • asilverblazer
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
    • Atlas
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Atlas · Posted

      The use of absolutes like "always" to describe gear selection, and giving free advice at a boat ramp sounds like a recipe for disaster. It's a boat ramp, not a farm, for starters.   IMO gear selection should depend on the obstacle. If low range is working and this is a slower speed, controlled ordeal, I'd keep using that.
    • diyer2
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I had a boat for many years, never had a problem even with a 2 wheel drive 93 Silvy for 20 years. Good tires, proper use of the gas pedal worked.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I read through that and I won't lie, my eyes rolled at some of the quirks about how it can turn off the trailer braking for example but I can see how it could help control or even up the torque applied to the ground with each wheel in a boat ramp scenario. But of course what it can't do is increase the torque to the wheels if the need is there as it ends up being like driving the four wheel drive version of a two wheel drive ( high range that is ). So far the neighbor that ended up with the 3.0 duramax with the max tow package which meant the 3.73 gears and high range only, I think its been doing ok for what he has been towing but doubt he ventures off into the soft stuff with his holiday trailer. He may have towed his dads river boat locally with it ( he always used his 6.6 duramax before ), I'll have to ask him sometime if he got into a lack of power to the wheels situation as after all that engine produces a lot of torque at low speed once the turbo winds out a bit and I think it has the 10 speed and if so they have a pretty good first gear ratio at 4.70 I see which is vastly better than the 3 or four speed overdrive models of years ago. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...