Jump to content

All Terrain Painted Bumper Chips


robsieb

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone used, or considered using Plasti Dip on their front bumper? This my plan. With the "glossifier" it's rather hard to distinguish from nothing at all.

I thought about trying this as well. I'm hoping the black pasti dip with the glossifier will closely match the clear coat black paint. Did you ever do it?

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Painted carbon steel bumper. What did they expect, wish I knew it was steel upon purchase I would of opted for the xpel or 3m film. So disappointed

Posted

I thought about trying this as well. I'm hoping the black pasti dip with the glossifier will closely match the clear coat black paint. Did you ever do it?

I did. Going to wash it shortly, will try and get pics and report on effectiveness. I'm probably not the world's greatest rattle can painter, but it didn't look bad at all. Can u tell it's in there? Most certainly. Does NOT look as good as xpel by any stretch of the imagination. It definitely knocked down the gloss a couple of notches. That said, it doesn't look bad to me at all. And if it protects, well then it looks fantastic and the price makes me like it even that much more!

Posted

I did. Going to wash it shortly, will try and get pics and report on effectiveness. I'm probably not the world's greatest rattle can painter, but it didn't look bad at all. Can u tell it's in there? Most certainly. Does NOT look as good as xpel by any stretch of the imagination. It definitely knocked down the gloss a couple of notches. That said, it doesn't look bad to me at all. And if it protects, well then it looks fantastic and the price makes me like it even that much more!

ok great! I look forward to the pics and the review. I was going to buy some if it worked for you. thanks!

Posted

CAnt really blame GM, EPA mandated water borne paint several years ago. It is not as durable as the old stuff and chips a lot easier.

I can tell you with 100% certainty that there is no such mandate from the EPA and GM does not paint these bumpers.
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I chose to avoid the headaches, Xpel Ultimate it was! I had to take many pics at different angles and lighting for the film to show. Full front $615, not cheap but well worth it!!

 

Xplel4

Xpel6

Xpel5

  • 3 months later...
Posted

You guys complaining that the whole front end is covered up with chips... your tailgating too close to other cars.. plan and simple.

 

I'm at 12K miles... and mostly major highway driving. I think I have 2 very small chips that I touched up. Stop tailgating and keep the front end waxed every few months... you wont have a bad problem.

Posted

You guys complaining that the whole front end is covered up with chips... your tailgating too close to other cars.. plan and simple.

 

I'm at 12K miles... and mostly major highway driving. I think I have 2 very small chips that I touched up. Stop tailgating and keep the front end waxed every few months... you wont have a bad problem.

 

I'm not tailgating, I'm drafting... BIG difference. Haha all joking aside, you're definitely right. I try to not follow too close to vehicles without flaps especially.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

 

I chose to avoid the headaches, Xpel Ultimate it was! I had to take many pics at different angles and lighting for the film to show. Full front $615, not cheap but well worth it!!

 

 

how do you like your toyo mt ?

Posted

I just purchased a 2014 Sierra yesterday. I traded in my 2009 Toyota Tacoma on it. I had a 3M clear bra installed on the Tacoma by the dealer and after 4.5 years it started to look absolutely terrible! It started to deteriorate and present with a hazy appearance so I decided I wanted it off. It took me and a friend (who is a detailer) the better part of two days to remove the film and the residue it left behind. We tried every kind of technique we could find on google but nothing worked well besides elbow grease and adhesive remover.

 

After finally getting it off, I was not happy with result, it was obvious the paint underneath did not match the rest of the truck. I guess that's what 4 years of sun shielding will do. I told myself I would never get another clear bra.

I'd rather spend 20 mins washing and waxing the front end once a month than have to go through the agony of trying to remove that clear bra again.

I don't know if there's a life span, on them, but if you get one, I'd recommend taking it off around the 3 year mark before the film becomes weaker than the adhesive, anything longer and you're in for real trouble later.

Posted

+1 ...another reason why I won't get it. Wax once a month.. been all good for 14 months. Maybe have 2-3 little chips....not an issue in my area... I guess it does matter where you live. Certainly not enough to justify the $800 + these guys want to install in my area...

Posted

any update on the plasti dip? i was just thinking about that when i headed over here to see if anyone else had done it. black bumper looks like hell after 5k miles. dealer says nope never heard of it, probably following someone too closely.

 

i have 5k city driving miles in almost 8 months. no way i'm going fast enough to tailgate and tear up paint like this.

Posted

You guys complaining that the whole front end is covered up with chips... your tailgating too close to other cars.. plan and simple.

 

I'm at 12K miles... and mostly major highway driving. I think I have 2 very small chips that I touched up. Stop tailgating and keep the front end waxed every few months... you wont have a bad problem.

 

 

I am super anal about my driving habits and don't drive behind people at all, I will slow down to avoid them. I can tell you no amount of wax will protect the front bumper on these new trucks. I only had 3000 miles on mine and had touched up about 10 spots on it. It is probably worse in states where the state uses tons of sand/gravel for snow like they do here in OK. We don't use the chemical, so even the slightest hint of snow and the city is dropping tons of sand on the road. My windshield and front end take a beating each season.

 

only two options you have are a repaint with better paint or clear bra, otherwise be prepared to get some experience in touching up rock chips.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

GMC-AT ... I had 3 Mercedes in the past year & a BMW (which was 10 years old) & NONE of them chipped like my 2014 GMC All Terrain (with the painted bumpers) I live in FL, don't tailgate trucks, dump trucks, cement trucks, trucks shooting BB's etc. I emailed GM direct, no response whatsoever. This is BS! theres 7,500 iles on my truck now & at least 20 chips. Have they ever heard of flex agent in the paint ???????

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...