What have you done to your K2 today?

Skelly · June 6, 2016

Doesn't your truck have projectors? Not ideal ones, but still projectors.

No it doesn't. I believe the LTZ and up come with projectors. I have an LT with standard reflector headlights

bakerrr · June 6, 2016

Installed a 12" billet antenna, added another JL 10" sub, and changed my pioneer 6x9's to infinity kappas

amxguy1970 · June 6, 2016

Yeah, but thats a whole other purchase. Plus I prefer the look of the reflector housing opposed to the projectors. Idk just like the square look. Are there halogen bulbs in 5000K? I may eventually just get a light bar to help with actually lighting up the road but I want all the lights to be the same color

Don't be that guy (which is also illegal). 5000k bulbs are called HID. Either do it right or buy color match bulbs in hyper white, just don't throw HID's in a reflector housing like all the ricers you see running around...

Tyler

c.schill · June 7, 2016

looks good. Any information on license bracket ???

Thanks! Here's a link to the one I got from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Vision-Lighting-4000308-License-Bracket/dp/B0054SG8YK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage. It should support any light bar up to 20". I have a 20" on there now, and it was tough to get it to line up with the outermost holes. So definitely wouldn't want to go any larger.

Edited June 7, 2016 by c.schill

c.schill · June 7, 2016

Don't be that guy (which is also illegal). 5000k bulbs are called HID. Either do it right or buy color match bulbs in hyper white, just don't throw HID's in a reflector housing like all the ricers you see running around...

Tyler

Agreed. I've done HIDs in reflector housings quite a few times in the past on multiple vehicles. Aside from being a nuisance to other drivers on the road, you're not getting any better light from the HID than you would from a good halogen bulb and better wiring harness. The light from HID bulbs in reflector housings is similar to the difference between a flashlight and a lantern. It may be brighter, but it's scattered and generally useless at distance. My suggestion is to look into some Philips Xtreme Power bulbs and a relay harness. You'll be amazed at what those 2 things can do for halogen lights.

Edited June 7, 2016 by c.schill

jsb159 · June 7, 2016

new Spyder headlights

HoosierZ · June 7, 2016

Over the weekend, I changed the oil, debadged the doors, mounted my oil catch can (needs plumbed), and started building a storage bin under the rear passenger seat. I wanted the underseat storage but I didn't want to loose all of the floor space on the driver side. These are mock-up pics of the cardboard pattern. The real bin is going to be 1/4" plywood coated with spray-can bedliner coating. It should match the texture of the mats pretty close. If it doesn't turn out to my liking, I'm only out my time.

Edited June 7, 2016 by HoosierZ

HoosierZ · June 8, 2016

My storage bin is almost done. Need to round the corners and fill a few spots and make brackets to anchor it to the seat bolts before I spray it.

Put on the traction bars I built for my '08 that I traded in. I couldn't believe how loose the U-bolts were when I took off the nuts to install the brackets. I could have easily used a 3/8" ratchet to remove them. They are much tighter now.

20feetup · June 8, 2016

Put on some color matched mirror caps and got rid of one aspect of chrome on my truck. Looks like the original owner hit something as the passenger mirror was only held on with silicone and missing the factory black housing that is on the back of the mirror.

Deanjo · June 8, 2016

Installed a 12" billet antenna, added another JL 10" sub, and changed my pioneer 6x9's to infinity kappas

Are you still able to move your seat all the way back with those subs in place?

DanY · June 8, 2016

My storage bin is almost done. Need to round the corners and fill a few spots and make brackets to anchor it to the seat bolts before I spray it.

Put on the traction bars I built for my '08 that I traded in. I couldn't believe how loose the U-bolts were when I took off the nuts to install the brackets. I could have easily used a 3/8" ratchet to remove them. They are much tighter now.

Not sure if you are aware or not, but GM doesn't want you re-using the axle U-bolts and nuts. Something about deforming the threads to help lock the nuts on. I had mine in for the dreaded rear clunk and the TSB says to replace the U-bolts and nuts once removed.

LongrangeLauber · June 8, 2016

Not sure if you are aware or not, but GM doesn't want you re-using the axle U-bolts and nuts. Something about deforming the threads to help lock the nuts on. I had mine in for the dreaded rear clunk and the TSB says to replace the U-bolts and nuts once removed.

You're supposed to always replace u bolts because they stretch and the amount of torque they are under, I've personally reused my u bolts up to 3 times with no ill effects

Zachlovesfood · June 8, 2016

Not sure if you are aware or not, but GM doesn't want you re-using the axle U-bolts and nuts. Something about deforming the threads to help lock the nuts on. I had mine in for the dreaded rear clunk and the TSB says to replace the U-bolts and nuts once removed.

I can understand the need for replacement when the u-bolts are overstretched, and the tensile strength is worn out...

But if threads are getting messed up from one use on a bolt that's supposed to withstand that much pressure, there's definitely issues with those nuts and bolts!

You're supposed to always replace u bolts because they stretch and the amount of torque they are under, I've personally reused my u bolts up to 3 times with no ill effects

He said he could've removed his u-bolts with a rachet... Sounds like they weren't even stretched until he reapplied them.

It was the same with my bolts, they were extremely loose from factory and gave me a vibration. Nothing a big torque wrench couldn't fix though!

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