What have you done to your K2 today?

SWOYER · May 29, 2020

1 hour ago, doubeleive said:

I'm about to be doing the same, is that long metal part factory? or is that something you added, I have most of parts needed but I need to make a bracket and get a power wire made up, which way are you running the amp wire and how long of a cable did you use?

The black panel in front of the sound deadening is a Blown PVC sheet that I ordered off ebay. It came 24"x48" but I ripped it down to 13"x48" on a table saw. I plan to use double sided 3M VHB tape on the high parts of the back wall and i'm also going to make some brackets out of an HDPE sheet i ordered. If your taping directly to the wall you'd probably be fine but because so much noise comes through I sound deadened the rear wall and the tape is just to provide some attachment, since its relying on the butyl glue from the deadener. The plastic brackets I cut down to 2" strips that I'll heat with a torch and bend, then drill to grab a seat belt bracket. On the top i'm going to put some nutserts into a portion of the back wall that has a void behind it. I've read of people using 3M 5200 caulk to attach the board, but I would stick with the VHB tape and if you want to make brackets go for it. I don't know that you need the brackets but it makes me feel better.

I bought a stinger kit for the cables since their cable is good and very flexible. From the battery it's 6'wide, 3' down to the floor, 7' back to the amp along the drivers side and about a 1' to get to the distribution block i'm using. That's for a double cab. if your in a crew you might need a little more. I came up with a need for roughly 15' and the cable in the kit is 18'. I'm only using a 4ga wire so I plan to run it up the drivers side wire channel under the plastics going through the firewall at the main harness grommet, which is a pain only because you have to remove the interior fuse block which is located in a really dumb spot. It's only 3 bolts, but it's annoying. I couldn't find anywhere else to come in that didn't require drilling a hole.

PAPER · May 30, 2020

17 hours ago, BigBlue2014 said:

You can get the info from this thread:

The file is free and you can print them up yourself if you have a 3D printer or pretty cheap if you have connections to a printer/friend with one.

Th

Thank You for the link , unfortunately I don't know anyone with a printer

VanguardK2 · May 30, 2020

Thank You for the link , unfortunately I don't know anyone with a printer [emoji23]

Checkout treatstock.com . I got a few things printed off there. Its a contracted style website. Upload the STL file for the cad design, and it will automatically give you quotes from everybody on there offering to print things. You can pick plastic type, color, all that. But you have instant quotes you can pick from so you can go with a cheaper one if you like, or a really high rated one that costs more if you want to go that route. Great site, if anybody wants to get one of these made

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PAPER · May 30, 2020

2 hours ago, VanguardK2 said:

Checkout treatstock.com . I got a few things printed off there. Its a contracted style website. Upload the STL file for the cad design, and it will automatically give you quotes from everybody on there offering to print things. You can pick plastic type, color, all that. But you have instant quotes you can pick from so you can go with a cheaper one if you like, or a really high rated one that costs more if you want to go that route. Great site, if anybody wants to get one of these made

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Thanks a lot , Really appreciate it

snowtop57 · May 30, 2020

Actually did this on Thursday, but I finally mounted my 20 inch GMC wheels on my LTZ. Glad I got the oem polished wheel instead of a reproduction chrome. Of course it had to start pouring down rain as soon as I finished. Guess I should be glad that the rain did wait until I was finished.

xSHIFTxNASTYx · May 31, 2020

New speakers all around. [emoji41] Man, these babies sound crystal clear. It's a huge step up from the stock paper cones.

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Frankielozano214 · May 31, 2020

13 minutes ago, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

New speakers all around. Man, these babies sound crystal clear. It's a huge step up from the stock paper cones.

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Think ima buy this then door speakers, don’t wanna use underneath the backseat. I like to have that empty https://www.ebay.com/itm/362061319612

slide187 · May 31, 2020

New speakers all around. [emoji41] Man, these babies sound crystal clear. It's a huge step up from the stock paper cones.

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So were those direct fit/plug n play with the existing system? Or are you running them off a new amp?

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xSHIFTxNASTYx · May 31, 2020

So were those direct fit/plug n play with the existing system? Or are you running them off a new amp?

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Plug and play for sure. However, since they're 6.5's, I got adapters for the doors. The front door is a 6x9 so obviously one is needed there. The rear door is a 6.5 but I didn't feel like wrestling the old speakers out of the adapter so I bought new ones.

The adapters needed a little bit of modification since the speaker frame between the magnet and cone was interfering with a couple of tabs. They weren't needed so I cut them off for a flush mount.

I didn't get an amp, I don't even know if I even have an amp. They get plenty loud but now I'm thinking about the next steps of maybe getting an amp to give these babies the proper amount of juice. [emoji23]

Oh, and I bought wiring harnesses that clip into the existing wiring to get two leads that can be stripped to bare wire. I didn't feel like cutting out the harness yet. The front dash, eh, not so lucky. Those got cut off and crimped with new ends.

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doubeleive · May 31, 2020

49 minutes ago, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

Plug and play for sure. However, since they're 6.5's, I got adapters for the doors. The front door is a 6x9 so obviously one is needed there. The rear door is a 6.5 but I didn't feel like wrestling the old speakers out of the adapter so I bought new ones.

The adapters needed a little bit of modification since the speaker frame between the magnet and cone was interfering with a couple of tabs. They weren't needed so I cut them off for a flush mount.

I didn't get an amp, I don't even know if I even have an amp. They get plenty loud but now I'm thinking about the next steps of maybe getting an amp to give these babies the proper amount of juice.

Oh, and I bought wiring harnesses that clip into the existing wiring to get two leads that can be stripped to bare wire. I didn't feel like cutting out the harness yet. The front dash, eh, not so lucky. Those got cut off and crimped with new ends.

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what brand/model number did you use for the dash speakers?

Chev-mekanik · May 31, 2020

Transmission service. Had to go AC Delco cause Blue!

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SWOYER · June 1, 2020

Well... I removed my morimoto XB fog lights and installed my ss3 setup. While the lights are definitely superior to the morimotos the fitment is lackluster. About an inch of excess from the brackets. There’s room to slide the light further into the bracket but because the light is so big it won’t clear the oem mounting locations unfortunately. So now I need to decide how I’m gonna make this look better. I think diode dynamics should have made up a new trim ring especially for the $350 price tag, that’s the quickest solution.

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Edited June 1, 2020 by SWOYER

SWOYER · June 1, 2020

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Frankielozano214 · June 1, 2020

Swapped the rear bow tie to a black bow tie I bought a while back, definitely glad I bought that ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel removed that double sided tape pretty quick. Also got a unlimited carwash membership at Fuel City with hand dry and tire shine for 30$ a month (first month is 1$)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZ4ABKS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share