Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I to am not to sure about its consistency but think I need to reserve judgment till the weather warms up. Sometimes when at operating temp it's in v4 mode most of the time. Next day at the same temp I can't see any v4 at all. Maybe it knows something I don't.

Posted

I too have noticed a definate pattern between outside temp and V4 mode. When its -20F it won't go into V4 even at 55MPH. The warmer it gets the more V4 mode operation I see (along with better MPG).

Posted (edited)

I think if they did away with the indicator most of the problems would be gone.

Just drive the truck and let the computer decide what gear to be in and how many cyclinders are

active. I know this is not easy I am anal about my vehicles and worry about everything.

If it doesnt make a difference in MPG I wonder why they would put it in there. It has to

cost them money to build it in there and definately makes some people unhappy so if it doesnt

increase MPG why are they doing it?

Government MPG regulations maybe?

Edited by seamonster
Posted

I did read someplace that when coasting the injectors cut off completely and the engine is turned by the drive train. This might explain some of what people are experiencing.

  • Like 1
Posted

On my 4.3 I feel a quick vibration throughout the entire truck when switching from V4 to V6 mode driving in the city, although I never feel it while on the highway or interstate. It only happens when I am driving between 30-40 mph at about 1000-1500 RPM.

 

Is there a way to just deactivate AFM completely?

Posted

Im surprised how long it stays in at slow speeds foot off gas. Then it feels like a downshift then the trans downshifts, sometimes jerky. I just put it m5 in town smooth as glass no change in fuel mileage. After 45mph I go to m6 or drive. I wonder if the mile or two per gallon you get with it is worth some of the oil problems some people have had with it. I get no change in town.

Posted

Mine will vary from completely seamless to feeling like the truck is shifting down (still pretty smooth), just depends on the load required.

 

I have also noticed the amount of time in V4 changes with the weather. Got up in the 50's for a day last week, and the truck spent alot more time in V4 than it does in single digit temps. Brought my average mpg up nearly two miles that day.

Posted

We have a 2013 crew cab 4x4 Silverado with the 5.3 engine and 6 speed auto transmission at work. It does not have the DIC display as it is an LS model. I cannot tell when the AFM is activating/deactivating when driving the truck.

Posted

I got one for you, my sister in law was driving her Hemi car thru Dallas and it quit. They haul it to the dealer, timing chain at 40,000 miles. They told my brother to put a tune in so it wouldnt go to v4 that's why the chain broke. He told to put that in writing. See where that goes. The are fixing it under warranty.

Posted

I've driven two trucks with t and they both act noticeably different and I drive the same.... Not going I worry about it on my current one it's a truck and every little bit helps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

With a few more miles on peoples truck, I wanted to see if anyone else can feel the transition for V8 to V4 or the other way around. I assume that this is what I am feeling, if I have my cruise set for 60, I can feel the truck and watch the tac and know when the transition is taking place. No matter if it goes from 4 to 8 or 8 to 4, my RPM's increase slightly, I mean slightly, makes the needle jump and there is a slight "jerk" I would call it. Do others have a slight increase in there RPM's, again it does not jump 500, I would say maybe 100 RPM's but enough to notice the needle jump. I know its not a transmission shift, because it can be on a flat road, and I can watch the indicator light switch. Didn't know if anyone else's truck acted this way?

Posted (edited)

On my 4.3 I feel a quick vibration throughout the entire truck when switching from V4 to V6 mode driving in the city, although I never feel it while on the highway or interstate. It only happens when I am driving between 30-40 mph at about 1000-1500 RPM.

 

Is there a way to just deactivate AFM completely?

I hope a V6 switches to the V3 mode, not V4 mode. Gm installed the AFM system on a 2007 V6 3.9 liter engine used in Impalas but after one year they removed the system. I wonder why.

Edited by pm26
  • Like 1
Posted

^ no. that is not your AFM. Let us know what dealer says.

Thanks, you are a bearer of good news! :) My seat is popping also, so when I get my oil changed I will tell them, At first I thought it was something with my cruise because when I don't use it, it is not as pronounced, but the good thing I guess I can reproduce over and over so the dealer doesn't think I am bat $hit crazy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...