Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up

5RWill · April 9, 2015

Edit mispost.

Edited April 9, 2015 by 5RWill

5RWill · April 9, 2015

You must not understand offset. While I love negative offset too, the reason guys are able to run 35s with a leveling kit with minor rubbing is because they are usually on stock wheels, or wheels that have a positive offset and a large amount of backspacing. This keeps the wheel in as you turn, keeping it away from the inner fender. With a -24, I'm guessing you'd be on a 20x10, 33x12.50 are probably going to rub a bit with just a leveling kit. to run 35s you'd probably have to go full 5"+ kit. Going to have to be more than a leveling kit though. I hope you understand what I'm saying, trying to make it as clear as I can.

Edit: I have a -12 on my truck and they only clear by about 3/4" with half tread 285/50/20.

Diameter is going to be largely based on the height of the truck. For these new Sierras/Silverados you'll likely have to have a 5-7" lift to accommodate 35" tires, and even then you might have to trim.

Fitting the width of the tire is largely controlled by offset. The higher the offset the more inward the tire will be in the wheel well. The lower the offset the further the wheel will stick out from the wheel well allowing larger width tires to be accommodated so you don't rub the UCA, Coil Spring, or the sway bar. If your planning on running 12-12.5" width tires your going to need 0 to -12 offset minimum.

I don't know anyone running 35x12.5x20 on stock rims without trimming or rub. It's why 295/55/20 rubs on stock rims and it's going to as the OEM stock 20s for these trucks are +27mm offset.

http://cocomponents.com/dealer/blog/wheel-offset-explained/

Evanski9 · April 9, 2015

You must not understand offset. While I love negative offset too, the reason guys are able to run 35s with a leveling kit with minor rubbing is because they are usually on stock wheels, or wheels that have a positive offset and a large amount of backspacing. This keeps the wheel in as you turn, keeping it away from the inner fender. With a -24, I'm guessing you'd be on a 20x10, 33x12.50 are probably going to rub a bit with just a leveling kit. to run 35s you'd probably have to go full 5"+ kit. Going to have to be more than a leveling kit though. I hope you understand what I'm saying, trying to make it as clear as I can.

Edit: I have a -12 on my truck and they only clear by about 3/4" with half tread 285/50/20.

I totally understand offset. Yes I get a very slight rub at full lock on the sway bar.

I have alot of room for turning, 3"+ between fenders on each side

Yamiryder · April 9, 2015

I totally understand offset. Yes I get a very slight rub at full lock on the sway bar.

I have alot of room for turning, 3"+ between fenders on each side

If you think you can do it then go for it. I don't think it'll work at all, but if you have tons of room snd measured, try it

Evanski9 · April 9, 2015

If you think you can do it then go for it. I don't think it'll work at all, but if you have tons of room snd measured, try it

I will have the test fit it and report back. I am running a procomp 2.5" Level . Just any one is following this

Rawyzf · April 10, 2015

Probably going to buy these tomorrow and throw them on this weekend.

crafferty · April 10, 2015

I will have the test fit it and report back. I am running a procomp 2.5" Level . Just any one is following this

2.5 level with -24 offset and a 35" tire...get ready to trim and trim heavily.

Evanski9 · April 10, 2015

2.5 level with -24 offset and a 35" tire...get ready to trim and trim heavily.

I think if I run the 35" tire. I am going to have to run the stock +31 offset.

If I stick with the 33" tire. I think I should be able to clear the -24. I am not sure.

crafferty · April 10, 2015

I think if I run the 35" tire. I am going to have to run the stock +31 offset.

If I stick with the 33" tire. I think I should be able to clear the -24. I am not sure.

With a 33"/-24 you may rub a little while turning or may clear. But you'll have to trim still because of rubbing when you turn going over bumps. On my truck for example I could have not trimmed nearly as much as I did. But with the way I trimmed I can be at full lock forward or reverse and go over and size bump and not rub on anything.

Evanski9 · April 10, 2015

With a 33"/-24 you may rub a little while turning or may clear. But you'll have to trim still because of rubbing when you turn going over bumps. On my truck for example I could have not trimmed nearly as much as I did. But with the way I trimmed I can be at full lock forward or reverse and go over and size bump and not rub on anything.

Could you post a picture of how you trimmed crafferty?

Mike1220 · April 10, 2015

With a 33"/-24 you may rub a little while turning or may clear. But you'll have to trim still because of rubbing when you turn going over bumps. On my truck for example I could have not trimmed nearly as much as I did. But with the way I trimmed I can be at full lock forward or reverse and go over and size bump and not rub on anything.

What's the difference between going forward or reverse? I understand how bumps would make a difference but never understood how someone can run at full lock in reverse and not at all in drive even at full lock.

I know a few ppl have mentioned that they only run at full lock in reverse and not in drive.

Rawyzf · April 10, 2015

Just put on some Sierra wheels that have the PVD Black Chrome finish.

Now, I need to change to an AT better looking tire.

Need opinions on what size and tire to get.

I plan to stay at stock height all around

Should I go with

275/60/20 33.0"

285/55/20 32.3"

305/50/20 32.0"

Edited April 10, 2015 by Rawyzf

crafferty · April 10, 2015

Could you post a picture of how you trimmed crafferty?

Here are the pictures. Let me know if you need any in particular.

What's the difference between going forward or reverse? I understand how bumps would make a difference but never understood how someone can run at full lock in reverse and not at all in drive even at full lock.

I know a few ppl have mentioned that they only run at full lock in reverse and not in drive.

The two big differences are the direction in which you turn the wheel. You can't know you don't rub until you go full lock in both drive and reverse and turn it both ways as well. It also helps to have someone watch the wheel and tire as you turn it. The other thing is sometimes in drive you can slightly rub but never hear it because its essentially rubbing with the grain. Where as in reverse you go against the grain and any part rubbing will make more noise when it hits the tread.

Edited April 10, 2015 by crafferty

Mike1220 · April 10, 2015

Here are the pictures. Let me know if you need any in particular.

The two big differences are the direction in which you turn the wheel. You can't know you don't rub until you go full lock in both drive and reverse and turn it both ways as well. It also helps to have someone watch the wheel and tire as you turn it. The other thing is sometimes in drive you can slightly rub but never hear it because its essentially rubbing with the grain. Where as in reverse you go against the grain and any part rubbing will make more noise when it hits the tread.

Good point on the going against the grain. Never thought of that part.

hotrodz37 · April 10, 2015

Just put on some Sierra wheels that have the PVD Black Chrome finish.

Now, I need to change to an AT better looking tire.

Need opinions on what size and tire to get.

I plan to stay at stock height all around

Should I go with

275/60/20 33.0"

285/55/20 32.3"

305/50/20 32.0"

Looks good! The actual sizes on the truck will be about 1" lower than the specs on the mfg's sites list. I have 275-60-20 Toyo AT2's and they are 32" tall maybe 31 7/8th's so the others will be even shorter once mounted.