Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Can't measure them now, I'll be working out of state for another month(truck stays home). I do know that these tires brought the truck up alittle over an inch compared to the stock 275/55. They do look more narrow than most 34x11 because of the tread design. The sidewall kinda tapers in towards the center tread. They don't rub at all, forward or reverse which is nice.

Here's a different angle

0306151720_zps4d4cad1h.jpg

Edited by Nolasaintz
Posted

It's not mine, I wouldn't mind if it were.

 

Wheels are method mesh matte black. Looks to be leveled with 35 trail graps.

Pretty sure thats a 2wd with a knuckle lift. It's more than a level.
Posted

What's a knuckle lift? Does look more than leveled looking at the room in the wheel well.

Posted (edited)

What's a knuckle lift? Does look more than leveled looking at the room in the wheel well.

A knuckle or spindle lift is just a new knuckle that keeps the tie rod and ball joint angles in correct geometry but drops the hub. It only works on 2wd trucks because there is no axle to cause issue.

 

Edit: The reason I say its a knuckle lift is because I remember looking for the source of that picture because I loved the stance of that truck. And I'm 99% sure that is the info I found.

Edited by 14x4
Posted

Anyone have some pics of a truck running RC 2.5 leveled on Toyo Open Country MT or Cooper Discoverer STT on

285/65/17 or

285/65/18 or

Very close to that size, any opinions y'all have let me know, thanks in advance!!

Posted

20x10 Method MR301

35x13.5r20 Toyo R/T

 

3e204950aac6bb30961ea0ab0ddab223.jpg

 

f5b8be7e0b7e98706417f164d1721e03.jpg

What level/lift are you running and any rub or trimming needed? Love this setup.
Posted

What level/lift are you running and any rub or trimming needed? Love this setup.

Thanks Adam, I am running a 6" BDS kit with coilovers. I had to do a decent amount of trimming because of the -24 offset and the 13.5" wide tire. But now that it's all setup it was well worth it.
  • Like 1
Posted

Question for those of you who are like me and still hesitant to tune your truck...

I'm getting my wheels and tires tomorrow and was thinking about the computer programming for the stock wheels and tires being different than what will be on it.

What parameters can the dealer change?

I'll be like most everyone else 20x9 with a 33x12.5. I know it won't change the speedometer much more than any other vehicle I have put larger wheels and tires on but was just curious how to keep it close without a tune and changing everything from that point.

I know I have read something about being able to change for the different wheel packages but don't remember where that was.

Posted

Question for those of you who are like me and still hesitant to tune your truck...

I'm getting my wheels and tires tomorrow and was thinking about the computer programming for the stock wheels and tires being different than what will be on it.

What parameters can the dealer change?

I'll be like most everyone else 20x9 with a 33x12.5. I know it won't change the speedometer much more than any other vehicle I have put larger wheels and tires on but was just curious how to keep it close without a tune and changing everything from that point.

I know I have read something about being able to change for the different wheel packages but don't remember where that was.

 

 

I don't think the dealer can change the tire size at all. Also I believe that i remember reading that it didn't matter whether your truck came with 18" rims or 22s, the overall tire size was the same so GM programs that into the computers and not the dealers. A custom tune would certainly be able to fix the tire size though which will also fix speedometer, odometer, and DIC's MPG.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...