Jump to content

Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up

BlueWrapper
 Share

Recommended Posts

MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted (edited)

So... the 305/55 would be wider of a tire (sticking out a bit more) compared to a 275/65 tire which would fill "up" the wheel well more. Is that correct?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Correct, but 305/55 is still a decently tall tire. A 275/65 kinda has the pizza cutter look, narrow and tall

 

 

Sent from my treestand using Tapatalk

Edited by MOhunter92
  • Like 1
  • Replies 5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Full Lock
Full Lock

I'm in... Man I need some new pics if rain would stop messing up my truck ha   305/65 18x9.-12  

DLS-001
DLS-001

Mounted!     18-inch Method Mesh wheels, 275/70/18 BFG All Terrain tires, and a 2.5-inch RC level (front only). Zero rubbing, zero road noise, nice traction on and off road, and no wobbly street

daowens
daowens

Fuel Maverick 20x9 +20 Nitto Trail Grappler 295/55R20 Rough Country 2.5" Leveling Kit No rubbing or trimming        

Posted Images

spencerbureau New Member

spencerbureau

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looking at going with terra grappler 305/60R18 with 18x9 fuels with either -12 or +1 offset. I have a 2" level, anyone running something similar? I'd rather -12 but concerned about rub.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by spencerbureau
abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

Looking at going with terra grappler 305/60R18 with 18x9 fuels with either -12 or +1 offset. I have a 2" level, anyone running something similar? I'd rather -12 but concerned about rub.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will likely rub on a -12 but probably could get away with the zip tie method. 285 65 18 on -12 fuels has minor rub full lock in reverse with a 2.5" level. -6 offset racelines cleared with same tire same level. tires are Toyo AT II .

  • Like 1
bakerrr Enthusiast

bakerrr

Posted
Posted

Recently got the opportunity to hook up with MRR Wheels and got a chance to try out their newest wheel. Been waiting since July to get them,definitely worth the wait [emoji1417]

MRR T228

22x10 ET30

305/40/22

4/7 Drop

 

430718eeeb744224ba03c61c08da1bae.jpg

c911e326a8bda10fe2b3c5933f4f1553.jpg

  • Like 9
tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

Recently got the opportunity to hook up with MRR Wheels and got a chance to try out their newest wheel. Been waiting since July to get them,definitely worth the wait [emoji1417]

MRR T228

22x10 ET30

305/40/22

4/7 Drop

 

430718eeeb744224ba03c61c08da1bae.jpg

c911e326a8bda10fe2b3c5933f4f1553.jpg

Those are SWEEEET

  • Like 1
Danny_Rosa_Z71 Enthusiast

Danny_Rosa_Z71

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know when discount tire does their $100 off with $400 over purchase? Ive noticed a few of you guys have done it. And im so ready to buy wheels and tires but id like to wait on that sale.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Silver space ship Enthusiast

Silver space ship

Posted
Posted

I did all the common stuff, road force balance and even new wheels and tire but still never got it to go away. Even had a engineer look at it and tell me it was normal. I went to the dealer to trade it in on a 13 f150 but ended up getting another 14 but a Sierra this time. The Sierra is much better but at times a vibration for the first few miles but it always goes away, some days it's worse than others and some days it's like it's not even there. I would swear it's the tires from sitting but doesn't explain why some days are different than others and some days it's gone in a mile and some days it takes 4 miles. I could swear it's getting better with more miles on the truck and seems like I don't notice it more often than I do lately. Overall much, much better than the Silverado was.

I'm do for new tires before winter so I'm almost nervous about it because of how nice it rides now.

 

Funny looking back when I posted that, I was afraid I was going to get jump on for posting that thread being so new to the forum. I didn't think people would believe me! I still get updates emailed to me daily on that topic but I only read them from time to time, still seems like no fix for most.

  • Like 1
Juan_ID Enthusiast

Juan_ID

Posted
Posted

Here's my new setup, moto metal 0970 +18 with my old 275/70r18 bfg ko2's

1BE25331-E5ED-42A8-B115-D8819061A442-149

I really wish they made these in a 0 offset, anyone have any info on some good spacers that may push these out to about what a 0 offset would be?

  • Like 1
Wazbe Enthusiast

Wazbe

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I installed the RBP Glock wheels today, and I think I am in love! 20x10 (-12 Offset) with 305/55R/20 Toyo AT on a 2.5" RC level (stock rear blocks). I did rub on some plastic a bit but I trimmed it and now I only rub on the liner ever so slightly.

Before Level:


ff20461364873fefd89da19680ac93e0.jpg




Tires / Level:

99ae778432280124a80530e9f959edcd.jpg2da76380377181048619a78dfab2a4ae.jpg1c9621f02fd1d880f5f978595b1a7e23.jpg8761402e4d1b974bd48bfce230ac1ec2.jpgf2205778fba173e6336664f95247189f.jpg

 

 

Edited by Wazbe
  • Like 4
ankratz Enthusiast

ankratz

Posted
Posted

18x10 -24mm Moto Metal Link MO977 "Blackout"
BFG K02 35x12.5r18
McGauphy's SS 7-9" lift
Deaver Rear Springs (plus a 1" block for forward rake)

Measures 47" in the back, 46" up front. Rides excellent.

MPG's about 15 highway, 10'ish in town. (5.3 v8, 3.42 gears)

Trimmed the valance 1/2" at the bottom, diagonally up to where it meets the bumper as it rubbed slightly.

 

20161002_122948_zpsmvr5crql.jpg

20160924_144505_zpsiowd7kg1.jpg

20160924_144522_zpsbgnboy3i.jpg

  • Like 6
Abearclaw Enthusiast

Abearclaw

Posted
Posted

def066ccb1a8d0cd2a4a5b42ec2c93d3.gif

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Toxicgoober Enthusiast

Toxicgoober

Posted
Posted

18x10 -24mm Moto Metal Link MO977 "Blackout"

BFG K02 35x12.5r18

McGauphy's SS 7-9" lift

Deaver Rear Springs (plus a 1" block for forward rake)

 

Measures 47" in the back, 46" up front. Rides excellent.

 

MPG's about 15 highway, 10'ish in town. (5.3 v8, 3.42 gears)

 

Trimmed the valance 1/2" at the bottom, diagonally up to where it meets the bumper as it rubbed slightly.

 

20161002_122948_zpsmvr5crql.jpg

20160924_144505_zpsiowd7kg1.jpg

20160924_144522_zpsbgnboy3i.jpg

Looks mean man!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

siguy76 Enthusiast

siguy76

Posted
Posted

i have a 3" motofab kit with 2" bora wheel spacers and 34" toyo open country's, on my 2015 elevation edition. been 7500 ish miles on all of it and my driver side ball joint has a ton of play !!!! anyone run into this yet ? also any opinions on a budget friendly upper control arm to fix the ball joint angle ???

 

14593598_1045223108930399_225991850_n_zp

 

14502977_1043467605772616_54720992600565

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • silveradosid
      Replacing 2.7L on 2021 Silverado with 2023 2.7L

      By silveradosid · Posted

      same here , i have a 2020 first gen and the cost to repair these engines far excedes replacement
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      But Grumpy I did show several subdivisions that had homes starting in the 170K range. If you bought a Townhouse or Condo you could go cheaper. Same with a car 3000 dollars in the 70s translates to around 20K today. There are several models at that price. You actually get more for the money. In the 70s I drove a 3000$ car bought a 28K home and made 4.50 per hour. Thank goodness for overtime. Today I could buy a 170K house drive a 20K car and make 25 dollars an hour operating the same machine today. The difference the house, car, machine would be better and have AC. And I wouldn’t be taxed on overtime. And statistically your wife works too. Easing the burden. I thought we agreed to disagree. I brought receipts earlier, showing examples. I think you’re more stubborn than me. I was done with this debate. 
    • Coastie05
      Replacing 2.7L on 2021 Silverado with 2023 2.7L

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...