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Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up


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db9f874184461c6356af2b5a819aba32.jpg

 

 

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Man I really like that color. What is it brownstone I think??? I've seen several trucks recently on here in that color that just look awesome

 

 

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I have seen 325 65 18 KO2's (35x13) on a truck in a parking lot, Factory wheels with a level. Factory wheels are also a +27. I never saw the owner to ask about rubbing issues or if he had to make any mods to the fenders. On a side note I've posted this a few time but from my own experience 285 65 18 with 2.5" level and -6 BS clears with no mods. -12 BS rubs in reverse at full lock but can be cleared by Zip tying the wheel well liner back. That being said, If you crunch the numbers... A 325 60 18 is 12.8" wide 33.35" tall and a 285 65 18 is 11.5" wide and 32.6" tall. With 0 BS a 325 sticks out 6.4" from the hub face while a 285 with -12 BS sticks out 6.1". So the 325 on a +0 BS plus the additional 3/8" from the bigger diameter will certainly rub whether it's just the liner or it gets into the fender I couldn't tell you. The other things that play a role are tire manufacture and rim width. When the manufacture specifies a section width like 13" you typically see an approved rim width range like 9-(10)-12 the number in paranthesis is the width they used when making the measurements using a narrower rim will result in a narrower section measurement so the 325 might measure 13" on a 10" wide wheel but only 12.5" on a 9 inch, it may seem small but could be the difference between a slight rub and hitting the sheet metal. Offset is always the biggest factor in whether a wheel and tire combo will clear. One other thing to note is a lot of positive offset with really wide tires you start to run into rubbing on suspension parts namely the sway bar. I've heard of this happening with 305's on factory wheels.

Good to know! Thanks for the awesome response! very informative.

I have 275/70/18 not and i believe they should fit fine on a 0 offset, but the width is my main concern. I will be fine for a while, until these tires wear out, but after that I will be looking to go wider on the tires.

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so you guys are sayin that that guys 3" level kit is way worse than a 2.5" level kit? why wouldn't you need all that extra stuff for a 2.5" level?

 

More than 2 1/2" just seems to put more stress angle wise than 2 1/2" and below. 2 1/2" still puts extra stress on it, but it just seems like once you go 3" that's when the ball joints go out way quicker than 2 1/2" or lower. This is all just from what I can tell by the comments I've read. Just seems like once you go over 2 1/2" that's when you need to start lowering the front diff (if 4x4) and the rack & pinion. Even a cheap lift kit that just has spacers for the front struts on a 4" lift will do the same. It's one of those things that you have to basically draw the line somewhere. I mean would you put a 6" spacer on the struts or would you lower the diff and rack & pinion 6"?

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
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Exactly what he said ⬆️ a 2.5" does cause stress on components but not nearly as bad as a 3". So really you do gotta draw the line somewhere

 

 

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2016 Crew Cab LTZ Z71 with 2.5" RC lift with rear block...

 

285/65/18 Nitto Ridge Grappler with 18x9 Gear Big Block 18mm offset.

 

No rubbing whatsoever. Thinking of changing to a 33x12.50 while I still can. Thoughts?

Nice lookin truck! You like the ridge grapplers? They look killer

 

 

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Nice lookin truck! You like the ridge grapplers? They look killer

 

 

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Thanks! Honestly I just got them put on about 2 hours ago but I do love the look of them and for the short ride home they seemed to be just fine!

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Has anyone has issues with the dealership not being able to recalibrate speedo.

 

My dealer wouldn't do it because GM said they wouldn't let them access the computer because the wheels I put on aren't GM brand wheels. Seems stupid to me. But it's what the dealer told me. If this is the case, would a shop that has a "tuner" be able to do it? I would hate to have to buy a tuner just for this one reason.

 

Is it even worth it? my stock wheels were 31.6 and new wheels are 31.9

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Has anyone has issues with the dealership not being able to recalibrate speedo.

 

My dealer wouldn't do it because GM said they wouldn't let them access the computer because the wheels I put on aren't GM brand wheels. Seems stupid to me. But it's what the dealer told me. If this is the case, would a shop that has a "tuner" be able to do it? I would hate to have to buy a tuner just for this one reason.

 

Is it even worth it? my stock wheels were 31.6 and new wheels are 31.9

What does the GPS speedometer app on your phone tell you?

 

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