Jump to content

Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up

BlueWrapper
 Share

Recommended Posts

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

So I wanted to give it a few days for everything to settle after installing the lift and wheels. Front fenders measure right at 40" and the rears are 40.5". The tires are pretty true to spec size wise, about 32.5" tall and 11.5" wide.

 

How do you like the ride and the noise? My Nitto G2s are horrible on a wet road...have you driven on wet streets yet?

 

When you are at full lock and hold it, what kind of clearance do you have around the liner, swaybar, and UCA?

 

Thanks....and nice truck, btw!!

  • Replies 5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Full Lock
Full Lock

I'm in... Man I need some new pics if rain would stop messing up my truck ha   305/65 18x9.-12  

DLS-001
DLS-001

Mounted!     18-inch Method Mesh wheels, 275/70/18 BFG All Terrain tires, and a 2.5-inch RC level (front only). Zero rubbing, zero road noise, nice traction on and off road, and no wobbly street

daowens
daowens

Fuel Maverick 20x9 +20 Nitto Trail Grappler 295/55R20 Rough Country 2.5" Leveling Kit No rubbing or trimming        

Posted Images

Thats a nice truck Enthusiast

Thats a nice truck

Posted
Posted

Love the setup, and the look of the RT's! How bad is the rubbing?

not to horribly. My tires are 33x12.5 and they slightly rub sometimes while going foward at 26 degree turns. And in reverse they rub at 33 degrees but don't rub at full turn in either direction.
rawalters117 Enthusiast

rawalters117

Posted
Posted

not to horribly. My tires are 33x12.5 and they slightly rub sometimes while going foward at 26 degree turns. And in reverse they rub at 33 degrees but don't rub at full turn in either direction.

 

Nice man. Im trying to avoid rubbing, but geez those 20x10's look great. Going from an nnbs with a 9" lift, 35s and 20x12s to a leveled 2016 is really bugging me. Really hard not to just lift this one too.....

Sdfd504 Enthusiast

Sdfd504

Posted
Posted

I'm looking to purchase a set of XD Heist rims in either a 20x10 or 20x9 size with 275/65/20 or 305/55/20. My biggest question is the offset selection is very limited for those rims. I am looking to have slightly outside the fenders stance. Which offset would be best for this look?

 

http://www.kmcwheels.com/wheelSpecs/4378/1675/20320/xd818-heist

grapedrinkesha Enthusiast

grapedrinkesha

Posted
Posted

I'm looking to purchase a set of XD Heist rims in either a 20x10 or 20x9 size with 275/65/20 or 305/55/20. My biggest question is the offset selection is very limited for those rims. I am looking to have slightly outside the fenders stance. Which offset would be best for this look?

 

http://www.kmcwheels.com/wheelSpecs/4378/1675/20320/xd818-heist

 

Just as a frame of reference, my rims are 20x10 with a -19 offset. I have 305/55/20's as well, and as you can see they stick out but in my opinion just the right amount.

 

GaPzses.jpg

  • Like 2
arkenzo Enthusiast

arkenzo

Posted
Posted

22" replica wheels on 37s

 

Where are you buying replicas from and do they have those wheels in 20's? also what offset are they? same as stock wheels or different? thanks bro.

250motorsportz Enthusiast

250motorsportz

Posted
Posted (edited)

22" GMC Accessory Wheels - Factory setup, probably my favourite 22" design!!

 

CK160.jpg

 

CK160-.jpg

Edited by icecrm
  • Like 1
Abearclaw Enthusiast

Abearclaw

Posted
Posted (edited)

Where are you buying replicas from and do they have those wheels in 20's? also what offset are they? same as stock wheels or different? thanks bro.

Look on eBay, they are all over eBay. I forget the exact name of the company but they are legit and have outstanding replicas and definitely 20's as well

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Abearclaw
FiveOH Enthusiast

FiveOH

Posted
Posted

Where are you buying replicas from and do they have those wheels in 20's? also what offset are they? same as stock wheels or different? thanks bro.

I got them from a local shop but check out customoffset.com. They had the best prices I found on the Internet and free shipping. They make them in 20,22,24,26. With different offsets

Robert99M New Member

Robert99M

Posted
Posted

Best setup for the Silverado 1500 leveled is Nitto TG 33x12.50r20 with 20x9 +1 offset Fuel Nutz check my last post for more

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...