Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Im in the industry (ex OEM dev guy) tuned many a prod vehicle over the years (mostly european)

My $0.02 worth ......

 

Personally Id go Bilstein everytime .. done plenty of work with Billy guys ... great product and they know their stuff

I have Bilsteins on my 993 Porsche (stock Monroes done at 20k) (I track it, so its worth the cash to do)

The wifeys Mazda 5, Monroes (rear ) failed at 11k .. (KYB's still running after 65k further )

Had plent of other experiences also ..

In short .. every experience with Teneco branded equip has been very poor .. both performance spec and longevity ..

Cheap is for a certain market ...

 

Nuff said .. Its my pers opinion - hope I dont offend ..

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2014 1500 Z71 and I thought the stock Ranchos were too harsh. I replaced the front and rear shocks with the 4600 series Bilsteins and didn't like the ride, again too harsh. I swapped out the rear Bilstein shocks with some stock shocks off of a regular 4x4 2014 1500 non-z71 and left the front Bilstein shocks on. Took it for a test drive and loved it. I don't do a lot of heavy hauling or towing otherwise I think the rear Bilsteins would have been fine. The front Bilstiens are absolutely perfect and the rear, non-rancho, regular 4x4 shocks (tenneco black tube) work great for the rear for what I use the truck for. I highly recommend the front Bilstein upgrade for a comfortable and controlled ride, the rear Bilstein shocks just were not for me.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I recently lifted my truck and upgraded to Fox Factory Series shocks, 2.5 coilovers up front and 2.0's in the back. The ride is way better than with the stock rancho's

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Posted

Rancho 9000XL's all the way around. Front set at 6, rear at 4. No more bouncy ride. The adjustable damping works decent tweaking the ride for when I fill the bed up with a lot of weight. Huge improvement over any of the factory shocks.

Posted (edited)

I have always found Bilsteins to ride like garbage honestly.... may as well have a chunk of 2x4 bolted from the frame to the control arm or rear end. That's my experience over the course of 3 different trucks with Bilstein 5100's now so I won't buy them anymore. The Ram half ton is okay with them but very stiff...... my 04 3/4 ton rode like crap either way so the shocks didn't improve it's ride or bounce control and now this old stock suspension 170000 mile 1500HD rides worse with new Bilsteins than it did with 80000 mile KYB's.

 

The best riding shocks I ever had wereKYB Monomaxes... and I regret replacing my 80000 mile kybs with these 5100 Bilsteins as even with 1200 lbs in the bed constantly 10000 miles later they are still stiff as a board. Conversely my 2015 Silverado I just bought rides like crap for an empty half ton and it's an non z71 LTZ... we will see if my tool box load improves it's ride at all. This is coming from someone who dailies a 2005 1500HD Sierra... so I know what a stiff ride is especially since it's the truck I have the Bilsteins on currently and will probably be taking them off and ordering more KYB's..... That 2015 half ton doesn't really ride any better than this 1500HD and I have a lot more suspension ( evident by towing with both) than this new half ton.... so there is no excuse for such a shitty ride quality beyond the shocks and struts. Bilstein shocks... Duratrac Tires and Detroit Trutracs are all things I find love for on forums and never in real life lol.

Edited by 1994Vmax
Posted

I have had many sets of Bilstein and currently have them in my truck. They were an improvement over the factory Ranchos, plus I needed extra length so the 5100 is what I went with.

 

I have not ran many others to compare other than 1 set of Pro Comps in the past on a different pickup.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Factory Rancho shocks are complete junk!

 

Bilsteins are a night and day difference!!!

 

Shocks and tires should be swapped before even taking delivery of the truck.

Edited by SMiller
Posted

Factory Rancho shocks are complete junk!

 

Bilsteins are a night and day difference!!!

 

Shocks and tires should be swapped before even taking delivery of the truck.

 

totally agree - Ranchos are not the best shocks to go with - replaced my stocks with Bistein 5100s when I leveled out the truck - even better ride than I had before....I agree with some of the other posters too, the Goodyears tires are not the best - wish I had Continentals on the truck instead!

Posted

I had icons on my last truck, and I just ordered them for this truck. The ride is amazing, night and day. I will report back after the install.

 

Mike

Posted

Think I'am going to try the fox 2.0 or 2.5 coil overs. I changed out the stock ranchos about 6,000 miles ago to the oem black shocks they don't jar quite as bad as the ranchos but still not the ride I'am looking for. I want to stop the banging of the front end on some potholes and other sharp drops. This is the only truck I have every had that does this. Going to talk with fox and see if I can send them back if their coil overs do not stop the banging out on the front. To much money to drop if they don't help the problem.

Posted

Can't remember if I have posted in this thread. So il add my 2 cents anyways.

 

I switched over to Bilstein 5100s several months ago from the OEM rancho shocks and could not be any happier. The bilsteins really tighten up the truck, but not to the point of being harsh. They handle bumps and dips a lot better. Overall the truck seems better planted on the road. As best as a lead sprung rear end can get. IMHO.

 

Anyone looking to make the plunge, I say it's worth the money.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Think I'am going to try the fox 2.0 or 2.5 coil overs. I changed out the stock ranchos about 6,000 miles ago to the oem black shocks they don't jar quite as bad as the ranchos but still not the ride I'am looking for. I want to stop the banging of the front end on some potholes and other sharp drops. This is the only truck I have every had that does this. Going to talk with fox and see if I can send them back if their coil overs do not stop the banging out on the front. To much money to drop if they don't help the problem.

While those are some awesome shocks and the 2.0's are a improvement over the Bilsteins I have to ask why on a stock 1500? The Bilsteins will do a perfect job on this application, seems you are throwing a lot of money away and will never get to take advantage of the better shocks in this case.

Posted

For me, having had bilsteins, and then changing over to Icons on my last truck. It was a no brainer. Same with fox or king. IMO, you get what you pay for. I don't have mine on my new truck yet, but I expect them to perform like my last truck. And it was money well spent.

 

Good luck,

Mike

Posted

For me, having had bilsteins, and then changing over to Icons on my last truck. It was a no brainer. Same with fox or king. IMO, you get what you pay for. I don't have mine on my new truck yet, but I expect them to perform like my last truck. And it was money well spent.

 

Good luck,

Mike

Yep I have read where some were not happy with the bilsteins because they were just as stiff or stiffer than the stock ranchos. I want to try the fox have not read anything on the icons but would try them if they would do the job. Which ever I try will talk with the company before I purchase to see if they can be returned if they don't deliver the ride I'am looking for. But I'am thinking your not going to change the ride to much on these trucks its sort of you got what you got but hope its possible . The highway ride is good to me its just off road I'am tired of the jarring and banging out in the front end. This is the only truck I have ever owned that does this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...