AUX switch install

[electricks]

I just went directly off the cigarette lighter wires. Constant positive (with tapped inline fuse) and negative right below the upfitter switch location. Installed my relay above the little compartment that is right next to cigarette lighter.

[uestorm]

For most of you you don't want to put holes in your new truck. I have a solution for you. If you haven't seen it already.

 

On some of these trucks (ie work models) you can get upfitter switches that go where your traction control and cargo light switches go.

 

Trucks with only "traction control" & "cargo lights" can use this. ( if your truck has bed lights or a park assist it won't work.)

 

Looks like this the empty switch is just a blank. (Does nothing)

This switches are ground controlling. So you can hook them up to the negative of a relay. Mine are on the way and I'll take/show how it works.

 

another option if you have a console is this

[Ryan698]

For anyone that this doesn't work for these wireless remote kits can be keyed to you garage door opener home link buttons.

 

http://www.infiniteoffroad.com/#!product/prd1/3268312841/wiring-harness

 

How do you get these to connect mine never worked for when I got it

 

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[WesternMike]

Ok so I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 WT2, got the 4 aux bottoms as well now. I've heard the Fleet tucks(which mine was) can use these.

 

Can anyone give me direction of how to hook light bars up to these in the Fleets?

 

 

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[Static]

So here is a question. I just bought one of those aftermarket park assist, I changed the rear bumper out to body color and got one that had the holes already so I figured why not. Anyways I am going to buy the switch bank with the park assist, TC, and Cargo lights. My question is this, I have no idea about that kinda wiring is installed in the truck at the moment but either way is the latching relay part of the switch bank for this switch or do I need to buy one separate? I plan on just intercepting the speaker itself for the beeping and not then entire unit.

[smcgillis10]

I'm seeing a lot of guys that want to add these switches are having some trouble.

 

To the guys with ONLY the dome light and traction control switches from the factory be interested in my building a kit for them that they only have to install it into there trucks?

 

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[amore93]

So I bought the 7 switch bank (previously had only Traction Control and Bed Light switches. I also bought one of the wires that goes in the connector.

 

I installed that wire on one of the AUX pins and verified that I have continuity between it and Pin 14 (GND), when the switch is turned on.

 

HOWEVER, I DO NOT have continuity between Pin 14 (GND) and the frame of the truck!! How am I ever going to energize the coil of a relay if the GND isn't truly the trucks ground?!

 

Any thoughts? Does anyone know where that ground on Pin 14 is sourced from?

Edited August 5, 2017 by amore93

[amore93]

So I bought the 7 switch bank (previously had only Traction Control and Bed Light switches. I also bought one of the wires that goes in the connector.

 

I installed that wire on one of the AUX pins and verified that I have continuity between it and Pin 14 (GND), when the switch is turned on.

 

HOWEVER, I DO NOT have continuity between Pin 14 (GND) and the frame of the truck!! How am I ever going to energize the coil of a relay if the GND isn't truly the trucks ground?!

 

Any thoughts? Does anyone know where that ground on Pin 14 is sourced from?

[smcgillis10]

So I bought the 7 switch bank (previously had only Traction Control and Bed Light switches. I also bought one of the wires that goes in the connector.

 

I installed that wire on one of the AUX pins and verified that I have continuity between it and Pin 14 (GND), when the switch is turned on.

 

HOWEVER, I DO NOT have continuity between Pin 14 (GND) and the frame of the truck!! How am I ever going to energize the coil of a relay if the GND isn't truly the trucks ground?!

 

Any thoughts? Does anyone know where that ground on Pin 14 is sourced from?

It's probably a common ground for the ECM. Alot of these switches are originally ECM controlled. They do not carry high amperage. Just milliamps.

 

Also the coil side of a relay uses only milliamps to activate. Takes almost nothing to turn them on.

 

Maybe the way you're testing is slightly wrong. I would try wiring up a relay and see if it will actuate the relay. And if it works move one to wiring it up permanently.

 

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[amore93]

I ending up figuring it out.

1) the door hinge is NOT a good ground.

2) after testing the relay I was using (brand new), ends up it had a direct short from power side to coil side. It fried my Aux 1 switch unfortunately.

Replaced the relay with a bench tested relay and moved over to Aux 2 and all was good!

[Crazyjoker77]

So if everybody is wondering on how to install these auxiliary switches (GM Oem P# 23145158) without the GM upfitter diagram. I purchased the Bussmann 15303 - 5 it is a weather tight fused and relay box, took the wiring diagram that GM up fitter provides and did my own diagram. I also purchased the Pre- crimp wires to go into the back of the harness (GM OEM P#13575783). Made it much easier than trying to figure out what size connector it was. Purchased all parts needed from Delcity.com. Wire I purchased at my local Automotive Store 12 gauge for 20 amp, 14 gauge for 15 amp, 18 gauge from relay (pin 86) to switches. Works Fanstastic.

QTY

1 - 60 Amp Manual Reset circuit breaker Item# 76505

1 - Sealed Fused & Relay Panel 10 mini fuse & 5 Micro Relays Item# 15303543

2 - Mounting Brackets for 15303543 Item# 15303001

10 -15 mini fuses Item# 77155

10 - 20 amp mini fuses Item# 77205

8 - SPNO Ultra Micro ISO Relay 20 A, 12 V DC Item# 74981

10 - Green Cavity Plugs Item# 75042

20 - 12 Gauge Blue Cavity Seals Item# 75006

20 - 16-14 Gauge Grey Cavity Seals Item# 75004

20 - 20-18 Gauge Green Cavity Seals Item# 75002

20 - 14-12 Gauge Metri-Pack 280 Female Tangless Item# 12110845

20 - 16-14 Gauge Metri Pack 280 Female Tangless Item# 12129409

20 - 16-18 Gauge Metri Pack 280 Female Tangless Item# 12110847

 

I've read this thread twice now and one thing that is not completely clear to me is the operation of the 4 aux switches. In your diagram you have both the power for the coils and the contacts just coming off your battery(constant +12v through the 50A breaker). With it setup like this can you push the button and activate the relays with the truck off and key out and therefore have to manually shut the switch off everytime?

 

Obviously you could wire switched power(RPO) to the coils of the relays to have it switch off when the truck is turned off(which I don't think is an option with the particular fuse/relay block you went with, since it seems to share one rail).

 

 

IF the switches turn off with the truck even with constant power to the relays do the switches retain their position? (ie. if your lightbar is on when you turn the truck off will it be on the next time you start the truck or will you have to press the switch every time you get in?)

[Crstfr]

 

How do you connect your wiring harness to the garage door openers to work as the switch for the LED bar?

 

 

hey... you know what that on/off button is for?.. i have my led wired and i have it set to off.. but i'm still able to turn it on/off by the homelink buttons....

 

just curious to what that should be set on..

[Crstfr]

sorry maybe wrong person to ask Akkrezz.... anyone know what the on/off button does on the wireless harness?

 

 

i guess its just an on/off .. for manual.. ?..

 

 

edit : also i just emailed I-offroad about the wiring harness... my light came on in the parking garage... not sure if its on the same frequency as maybe someone's remote to unlock their car... but i couldn't turn it off via the homelink.. i had to use the remote... just fyi... i pulled the fuse so i can at least make it home today... and will try and reprogram the homelink back to factory as not to use it, but use the remote the harness came with.. keep ya'll posted.

Edited August 28, 2017 by Crstfr

[smcgillis10]

Just a couple be pictures of non oem install. Could have spent way more $$$ and make it look like it should be there. But if it works it works.

 

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[smcgillis10]

4 wire bundle. Was put through the firewall above the interior wire block (looks like a fuse block)

a

 

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Edited October 9, 2017 by smcgillis10