Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful.

Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 

Rubs on full lock

 

5100s all around 

Tuck.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, JamesAT18 said:

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful.

Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 

Rubs on full lock

 

5100s all around 

Tuck.jpg

Your truck looks great.

 

When we removed the stock fronts and installed the 6112 on the highest setting on my '15 Sierra NHT, we only had to disconnect the swaybar on both sides. It was surprisingly easy. I wonder what the differences are?

Edited by Red_5
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

On my 14 4x4 WT I only disconnected the sway bar and lifted the strut in place with a jack.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, JamesAT18 said:

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful.

Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 

Rubs on full lock

 

5100s all around 

Tuck.jpg

Stock height or lifted?

Maybe get some wheel spacers either way to prevent the rubbin.

What part is it rubbing on, UCA or liner?

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 9/9/2019 at 6:39 PM, Slash L86 said:

Stock height or lifted?

Maybe get some wheel spacers either way to prevent the rubbin.

What part is it rubbing on, UCA or liner?

2018 GMC All Terrain

Bilstien 5100s all around (front at highest setting)

Stock blocks in back

Stock UCAs

295 55 20 Ridge Grapplers

No Spacers

Minimum Rubbing at FULL lock on UCA

No Trimming

 

Sorry, forgot to mention some of those specs. 

I would like to stay away from spacers as much as possible. 

Edited by JamesAT18
Arnj85 New Member

Arnj85

Posted
Posted

Ive been reading a few pages of replies and questions. But I my question is I have a 15 Silverado crew cab midnight edt. 6.2 ltz z71. And I'm going for the lower sport truck look. I removed the blocks out of the rear and stock up front. Will the 5100 still accept the lower height in the rear or should I use a drop shock in the rear and regular 5100 up front?? 

Thanks 

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Arnj85 said:

Ive been reading a few pages of replies and questions. But I my question is I have a 15 Silverado crew cab midnight edt. 6.2 ltz z71. And I'm going for the lower sport truck look. I removed the blocks out of the rear and stock up front. Will the 5100 still accept the lower height in the rear or should I use a drop shock in the rear and regular 5100 up front?? 

Thanks 

Should accept the removed block fine. The rears don't provide any additional lift. 

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
On 9/8/2019 at 2:03 PM, Red_5 said:

I haven't done anything else to figure out my odd measurements but after doing more driving, I think the ride is getting even better. I noticed that my body subconsciously tenses up when it knows I'm about to drive over bumps that I hit everyday and the hits just don't seem as bad as they once did. I still have less than 200 miles on the 6112/5160 setup and I'm more pleased everyday.

 

I think I read somewhere that the 6112 springs were softer than the OEM springs and I believe it. The truck does seem to lean slightly more in turns but it isn't bad. The truck now rides like I think a 4x4 truck that had a nearly $60k MSRP should ride. Money well spent. 

This is interesting to me. The 6112 uses a 750lb spring which, imo sounds pretty high. A lot of coilovers use 650-700. Someone posted before that own is 745. 

 

I have the 5100s and don't love them, it's pretty firm. You say the 6112s feel softer than OEM?  Do you have the NHT / max tow package?

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, Yondu said:

This is interesting to me. The 6112 uses a 750lb spring which, imo sounds pretty high. A lot of coilovers use 650-700. Someone posted before that own is 745. 

 

I have the 5100s and don't love them, it's pretty firm. You say the 6112s feel softer than OEM?  Do you have the NHT / max tow package?

I was talking to my friend about this after I posted the response you quoted and he pointed out that maybe the side to side roll that I think are softer front springs could be the result of higher ride height, I'm not sure. Another element that could be fooling me is that the spring and shock are matched better than OEM which achieves a better ride quality even if stiffer sprung. What I am sure of is that the ride is much better on our far from perfect roads, I've noticed that I drive a lot faster around town and now I need to be more conscious of it where before my truck would be uncomfortable and even unsafe in a few spots to drive even at the speed limit. I still only have a few hundred miles on it but the ride quality just seems to keep improving.

 

My truck does have the NHT package.

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's also possible your trucks original springs are firmer than typical 1500 GM trucks, so maybe they are softer.  I have a Z71 which has a firmer ride than regular but I don't believe as firm as a NHT truck. I know your front sway bar is thicker too. 

 

I just switched from a 275/60r20 to a 285/70r17.  It's supposed to be 32.8", but it's more like 32.3 and my 275/60r20 was about 32.8.  With 2.5" more rubber (same model tire) it got ride of the harshness I had. 

 

I was hoping for more change and at first it seemed very slight.  After putting a couple hundred miles on it, I'm good with the ride for now.  I went from a harsh riding truck to a firm riding truck. 

 

If positive reviews keep coming in on the 6112, especially in comparison to the 5100s I may consider them next year.  I just wish Bilstein went with a softer spring than 750lbs. 

 

Edited by Yondu
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted

Well, my 5100s have arrived and I was planning to tackle the install this weekend with a buddy.  He used to be an Infiniti tech so he's got access to a wall-mounted compressor.  My plan is to remove the existing 2.25" level kit, set the 5100s on the highest setting and re-use the 3/8" spacer under the 5100 to get back to 2.2" of level.

 

I'm doing this because my truck's had a suspension-related rattle for some time now and has recently started rattling and creaking very badly when the suspension flexes. When we rock the truck side to side, we feel the vibrations from the creak in the shock/spring assembly much more than anywhere else.  So, I am about 60% sure that the problem is in that assembly.  We can also see the top of the shock move in the mount ever so slightly (a few mm, nothing more) when viewed from above.  It's almost like a bushing is failing but I don't know if it's normal or not.  I can't get a clear view of the other side..  The motion I'm talking about is in the center section of part 8 in the diagram.  We'll check the ball joints as well just in case, but I thought 2.25" was supposed to be safe on those. 

 

Should I hold off on the replacement until I can get new top mounts in?  I'd hate to tear it all apart to have to wait a week for parts.  I daily the truck, but I do have alternate vehicles I can use.  If it is the ball joints, should I replace the UCAs with the RC ones or just change out the ball joints with OEM or MOOG units?

 

 

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, papageoff said:

Well, my 5100s have arrived and I was planning to tackle the install this weekend with a buddy.  He used to be an Infiniti tech so he's got access to a wall-mounted compressor.  My plan is to remove the existing 2.25" level kit, set the 5100s on the highest setting and re-use the 3/8" spacer under the 5100 to get back to 2.2" of level.

 

I'm doing this because my truck's had a suspension-related rattle for some time now and has recently started rattling and creaking very badly when the suspension flexes. When we rock the truck side to side, we feel the vibrations from the creak in the shock/spring assembly much more than anywhere else.  So, I am about 60% sure that the problem is in that assembly.  We can also see the top of the shock move in the mount ever so slightly (a few mm, nothing more) when viewed from above.  It's almost like a bushing is failing but I don't know if it's normal or not.  I can't get a clear view of the other side..  The motion I'm talking about is in the center section of part 8 in the diagram.  We'll check the ball joints as well just in case, but I thought 2.25" was supposed to be safe on those. 

 

Should I hold off on the replacement until I can get new top mounts in?  I'd hate to tear it all apart to have to wait a week for parts.  I daily the truck, but I do have alternate vehicles I can use.  If it is the ball joints, should I replace the UCAs with the RC ones or just change out the ball joints with OEM or MOOG units?

 

 

UCA replacement would come down to how bumpy the roads are you travel on. Your old ball joint could be messed up from the lift. Get an upgraded one with more travel or switch to uniball if you live where road salt and crap won't harm it.

I would personally leave out the 3/8 spacer. 5100 at max are as high as you should probably go w/o upgrading uca. Plus, it will effect the ride in a negative way.

Definitely get some new top hats(upper strut mounts) prior to assembly just in case. They're not that expensive and you could always return them if old ones are still good. Get oem ones.

Edited by Slash L86
papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, Slash L86 said:

UCA replacement would come down to how bumpy the roads are you travel on. Your old ball joint could be messed up from the lift. Get an upgraded one with more travel or switch to uniball if you live where road salt and crap won't harm it.

I would personally leave out the 3/8 spacer. 5100 at max are as high as you should probably go w/o upgrading uca. Plus, it will effect the ride in a negative way.

Well, I live on a dirt road, so yeah bumps are very common for me.

 

I thought I remembered reading that 2.25 was safe for the ball joints but I guess not.  I wasn't aware of upgraded ball joints other than the UCAs that rough country offers.  I don't think I need to go to a uniball.  That seems a bit extreme, but what do I know.

 

 

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, papageoff said:

Well, I live on a dirt road, so yeah bumps are very common for me.

 

I thought I remembered reading that 2.25 was safe for the ball joints but I guess not.  I wasn't aware of upgraded ball joints other than the UCAs that rough country offers.  I don't think I need to go to a uniball.  That seems a bit extreme, but what do I know.

 

 

Yeah, upgrading uca would give you better ball joint than factory. Think they also make ball joint upgrades for stock uca that allow more movement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • chris21
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By chris21 · Posted

      I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I apologize, I missed this post, at risk of going off CURRENT TOPIC.   I'm not saying it is BS, I'm questioning how much information is being held back. GM is NOT going to spell out exactly every parameter in the algorithm. Liability, intellectual property, etc.    I'm not naive enough to believe that it is as simple as revolutions, coolant temperature, miles, time; are you?    I don't do irrational either, and boiling the OLM down to four simple values that I could code in an afternoon (I'm not a coder) is irrational - unless it suits your agenda to ignore it. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...