Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Amcguy1970 said:

 

Go ride in a new Full Size SUV from GM with adaptive suspension and air ride, you will probably think otherwise. They rode nice back in the day but were a little floaty over larger bumps which off set the nicer ride on the smaller stuff (don't forget cars back then creaked and rattled over bumps). Our 2021 Yukon Denali is amazing at how well it rides. We have had all the GM flavors over the years including a 1975 Pontiac Grandville (talk about a massive boat with a 455) to Bonnevilles and Le Sabres/Park Avenues until switching to vans/suvs and trucks the last few decades and this new SUV rides incredible compared to anything else. 

 

I would not be surprised if on the next gen the trucks adapted a IRS from the SUV's for the high end versions or the half tons as one of the engineers pointed out it was tough enough for truck stuff. With all these suburban dads buying the box checker trucks not to tow and haul but just drive to work and complain about the ride, well something like an air ride IRS with adaptive suspension will fix those complaints (until they start complaining about not having massaging seats or some other luxury car feature). 

 

Tyler

I seriously doubt the ride is as nice as that old tahoe….or buick roadmaster, or a host of other 90’s boats.

 

I mean it’s pretty damn easy to design a suspension to be good at one single thing and suck at everything else. Also, tahoe had air suspension too….courtesy of the 5” smaller wheels than your denali.

 

I suppose I can’t really be sure without driving a new denali, but I’d seriously doubt it.

 

I’m not knocking your denali, it’s better than an old tahoe in like 999/1000 categories.

 

me saying the tahoe rides better than your denali is kinda like saying a 25 year old civic with cement poured in the water jackets and a 350shot of nitrous can beat a lambo in a rolling drag race. While technically true it’s not really relevant.

 

 

Edited by truckguy82
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just noticed oil leaking from one of my 5160s. Less than 2 years old and only about 25k miles on them. Unfortunately, I think they only have a 90 day warranty.

Posted

I just got off the phone with Bilstein and found out the 5160s have a 2 year warranty. Unfortunately, I'm just over that from the time of purchase but they haven't been installed for 2 years. I'm hoping to hear from the dealer to see if they can help before pulling the trigger on a pair of 5100s that have a lifetime warranty.

Posted

What a disappointment. I ended up buying a pair of 5100s to replace these, hopefully they last longer.

IMG_0449.HEIC.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Looking at replacing my rear shocks and going back and forth between the 4600s and 5100s.

 

The 5100s seem more popular but several post on here describing a trampoline feeling with them. I do mostly highway driving with very little towing. Any advice or suggestions?

 

Not looking to ever lift the front or rear. I live in the south so not much issue with salt. Currently have the Z71 pink ranchos

 

 

Edited by Hogtiming
Posted (edited)

As I posted on your other post regarding this

:
"I'd go with the Bilstein 5100s.
Before I had them installed, on my lift, the stock shocks would bounce the truck over small speed bumps.
With them, it's been much, much better as I can over speed bumps with very little jounce and I watch trucks behind me jouncing as I used to.
That said, as @Grumpy Bear mentioned, there are many choices at many different price points. "

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 6/6/2021 at 9:07 AM, summitcounty99 said:

Hello,

 

Anyone think the Bilstein 6112 series shock would be to much for just a simple replacement over the original Rancho shocks? I do not plan on lifting the truck; just asking and researching what other people have done and are happy with.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

 

I had factory ranchos and was always happy with the ride.  Hit 100k and needed new tires so figured I'd get new shocks too since I'd heard that was about their lifetime and I could see the rears were rusted badly.  I've had 6112s (set on stock height) and 5100 rears for over a year now and am still super happy with them.  Them and the Blackbear tune are the best money I've ever spent on mods.  Roads around here are awful, and the 6112s eat up potholes and bumps like it's nothing.  I didn't measure before/after but I know for sure the front shocks lifted the front end of the truck after install, and it settled down a lot but fairly certain it's still higher than stock but a negligible difference.  I'd recommend them to anyone.  Can't speak for their longevity obviously. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I put 5100 shocks on my 2016 at 800 miles. It now has 4k miles. I have a metal clang sound on drivers side and deep thunk sound on drivers side when I turn. Is this normal for 5100 billsteins?

Screenshot_20210908-192812_Messages.jpg

Posted
59 minutes ago, stevejones said:

Not normal.  Best to get the front end in the air, then manipulate the control arms with a floor jack & see what's moving that shouldn't be.

It doesn't happen every turn. Im sure i won't be able to replicate it in the air. I cant make it do it when I want when driving.  The thunk sounds like my 06 Silverado that had the uca bushing pop out and in

Posted

Take your truck in to a repair shop if you do not think you can find the source. No need in risking it falling apart on you while driving. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/10/2021 at 4:22 AM, JRRIVERA34 said:

I put 5100 shocks on my 2016 at 800 miles. It now has 4k miles. I have a metal clang sound on drivers side and deep thunk sound on drivers side when I turn. Is this normal for 5100 billsteins?

Screenshot_20210908-192812_Messages.jpg

If you or whoever did your install did not use the factory Top Nut on the shock this could be where you're at noises coming from. The ones supplied by Bilstein do not have the built-in washer flare that the factory nuts do. Search this thread and you will see it mentioned. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 10/11/2021 at 8:19 AM, Grjfer said:

If you or whoever did your install did not use the factory Top Nut on the shock this could be where you're at noises coming from. The ones supplied by Bilstein do not have the built-in washer flare that the factory nuts do. Search this thread and you will see it mentioned. 

Can it be identified with out removing anything? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...