Wheel bearing installation question

elite0259 · February 20, 2015

Hey guys, I recently bought an entire new MOOG front end (upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods), as well as 2 timken wheel bearings. My question is do I need to somehow grease the bearings prior to installing them? They came pre assembled and I see no way of greasing them but I figured I'd ask and see what people have to say.

newdude · February 20, 2015

Nope good to go. They are pre-filled with grease.

00Silverado4x4 · February 21, 2015

Nope good to go. They are pre-filled with grease.

What he said. No additional lube required.

CapitalTruck · February 21, 2015

How much did all of that run?

elite0259 · February 21, 2015

815.26, not including the tools I got as well... I figure it's all going to go bad following the first ball joing to go, and I'd rather do it all at once and save in the long run on getting an alignment done in several phases. Suspension was all MOOG "problem solver" parts, grease fittings on the ball joints, ect. free two day shipping for most of it through amazon. Bearings were around 110 each.

DwayneJ · February 21, 2015

One tip I found when trying to get the bearing out is get some support to the lower arm as close as possible to the hub. I had a lot of trouble when I supported it by the frame alone, apparently this dampened the hammering. I ended up having to go all redneck and followed a youtube video describing how to use the power steering to press the hub out. I only mention it as a last resort. My truck is older than yours and Wisconsin is liberal with the salt so mine were badly stuck. I actually mashed the wheel flange I hammered on it so badly.

elite0259 · February 22, 2015

I have a slide hammer with a bearing attachment... I think that should do the trick nicely

DwayneJ · February 22, 2015

I have used those on axle bearings but never a sealed hub bearing like on front.

MikeNH · February 22, 2015

That should work fine. Air hammer was my tool of choice when I worked at the dealership.

elite0259 · February 22, 2015

I figured it's overkill but I don't have a real shop so I really don't have time to mess around with stuck bearings lol I heard hammers work but I won't have a lift so I won't have clearance to get inside to hit the bolts with... with any accuracy anyway. I figure as long as I get the axle nut off before I whack it it really shouldn't do any damage.

durandetto · February 27, 2015

Slide hammers don't actually work as good as an air hammer. You need to spin the bearing in the knuckle to get the corrosion to break loose. If they are really bad you can use torches to heat up the knuckle by where the caliper bolts up.

elite0259 · February 28, 2015

Yea but I can get a hell of a lot of force with a slide hammer... I don't have torches or an air hammer so I'm stuck with what I have... if they don't get done it's not a huge issue but I have the new ones so I'll see what I can do... they're really not rusty so maybe I'll get lucky and they'll slide right out

seansharley · February 28, 2015

I would make my own puller out of threaded rod, nuts, and big sockets, or pipe

Don'tGiveATruck · February 28, 2015

I would make my own puller out of threaded rod, nuts, and big sockets, or pipe

Steering wheel puller works nicely if you have one.

durandetto · March 3, 2015

Maybe try a big punch and a hammer to try and spin the bearing in the knuckle them use the slide hammer. You need to break the rust between the bearing and knuckle for it to come out. Pull the bolts and strike on the ears of the bearings where the bolt holes are.