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Intake clean. WOW!

bdbake01

By bdbake01
in Engines & Drivetrain

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bdbake01
bdbake01

yep, gotta admit the scraper is genius. Probably more reliable than the wife. DEFINITELY less mouthy about the situation.

nadrojcote
nadrojcote

I just did my truck with seafoam. I can't tell a huge difference yet, but we will see over time. Used my window scraper to keep the rpm around 2000.  

bdbake01
bdbake01

Ok, so lately I've been noticing the 6.2 stumbling a bit, hesitating, lower mileage - even more than expected for winter - etc. and began getting more concerned about intake valve buildup. 26k miles

Posted Images

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

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Posted

I was under the impression that the bg service was similar in cleaning valves by using a cleaning chemical? I was thinking more along the lines of actually physically scraping or blasting off the carbon.

 

I think it's the same idea but BG supposedly is the holy grail of cleaning agents and it's a three part system that goes through different areas of the engine and fuel system. All I know is it was $150 for my wife's Hyundai Accent, BG warranties the engine up to $4,000 if you do this every 15,000 miles, and my mechanic who I really trust recommends it over the other products out there. He claimed BG actually had to dial back the performance of their chemicals because of the EPA or something to that effect haha

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
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I was pleasantly surprised by how super easy it was to remove the intake baffle. In fact, from now on, I will be removing the baffle to take out the air cleaner box. No joke, I think it would be easier to take out the baffle first, and THEN take off the air filter cover in that order. Kinda ridiculous, but se la vie (sp? I dunno. The wife speaks French. I try. Mortitia?)

 

I am stock here as well. But, definitely looking forward to the day that I replace the Goodyear's with Michelin LTx's. 3.42's of course w/ the 6.2.

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

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I think it's the same idea but BG supposedly is the holy grail of cleaning agents and it's a three part system that goes through different areas of the engine and fuel system. All I know is it was $150 for my wife's Hyundai Accent, BG warranties the engine up to $4,000 if you do this every 15,000 miles, and my mechanic who I really trust recommends it over the other products out there. He claimed BG actually had to dial back the performance of their chemicals because of the EPA or something to that effect haha

 

No question, the BG service is likely far and above the CRC treatment. But for $10...you can do this literally 15x for the same price, give or take. For me, I'll home remedy this as long as I can. I've never had a vehicle which didn't require some home maintenance to maintain optimum levels of performance, and I consider this no different. Heck, I completely disassembled the wife's NorthStar to fix the notorious block leak. I'm glad that's behind me, and a can of spray goodness on occasion is a welcomed reprieve. Man that sucked.

 

Look. We (speaking collectively, the buying public) wanted mileage, performance and reliability...kinda in that order. And GM delivered in spades. Others tried and failed horribly, I won't mention names.

 

I still think this is hands down the single best vehicle I have ever owned all taken into account. But I'm not saying it doesn't take some effort on the buyers' part to maintain it. I think this falls into the realm of maintenance.

 

What I DO disagree with is the fact that GM, and almost all other manufacturers, tend to avoid the education component to this. These are diesel engines with a spark plug. They need a different regimen of maintenance in order to perform as designed. But marketing has trumped engineering yet again and we have to figure this out for ourselves. BMW, Mercedes and others decided to address this by taking over ALL of the maintenance during the warranty period. HELLO...anytime an OEM decides to benevolently do the maintenance for the buyer during the warranty period...even though you PAID dearly for it...raise a flag people. Raise the freakin flag.

 

/soapbox off

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

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Posted

I'd chip in to have that 1/4 oz of stuff analyzed. From the color, it looks typical of what we used to collect in catch cans on airplanes I flew. A big portion was water and mixed with oil, forming a "coffee and cream" colored solution.

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

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I'd chip in to have that 1/4 oz of stuff analyzed. From the color, it looks typical of what we used to collect in catch cans on airplanes I flew. A big portion was water and mixed with oil, forming a "coffee and cream" colored solution.

 

Oh yeah. There is a LOT of moisture in this no doubt. You don't get a brown/coffee color without moisture. It was a reasonably middle of the road day here. Not too hot, not too cold. Medium humidity.

 

But 54mi? Seriously? Let's say that it's 10% oil. Fairly forgiving there. That means that in 540 miles an engine designed to have a DRY INTAKE has ingested 1/4 oz of oil. I hope to keep this thing for many, MANY times that. The math doesn't give a favorable answer.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

Its super easy to clean, dont need to change your clothes, loosen two screws to remove air tube. Remove 4 bolts holding on throttle body.

ryandemo84 Enthusiast

ryandemo84

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Looking at the CRC cleaner on amazon and came across the CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Anyone use this with their intake cleaning? Does the MAF sensor even need to be cleaned?

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

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Today's commute. Same yadda yadda yadda. Maybe less stop and go today. I did reset a bit late as the onramp this morning was an exciting event.

 

 

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bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

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Looking at the CRC cleaner on amazon and came across the CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Anyone use this with their intake cleaning? Does the MAF sensor even need to be cleaned?

 

I didn't, but I probably will next time. The MAF should NEVER see any oil. It sits right behind the filter with nothing to get oil in there. But it can get a bit nasty over time just from the bits that the filter misses. I would expect it to be pretty clean at the moment. But, it's cheap, can't hurt.

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SlavO Enthusiast

SlavO

Posted
Posted

Today's commute. Same yadda yadda yadda. Maybe less stop and go today. I did reset a bit late as the onramp this morning was an exciting event.

 

 

Do like 500 miles and lets see a real average. Nice numbers tho.
  • Like 2
bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

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Do like 500 miles and lets see a real average. Nice numbers tho.

 

While I certainly don't mind doing that, unfortunately I didn't get a 500mi "snapshot" prior to the clean. The only thing I could think of that was extremely repeatable was my daily commute, hence my choice. Plus, I can update every day. Not that I don't love you guys ;) but I wasn't going to drive for 10 hours for a good baseline, clean the intake, and then drive the same exact 10 hours to compare.

 

But don't get me wrong, I do NOT average 24mpg. Cause I drive like a bat outta hell most of the time. Morning commute, can't, too much traffic. So it's the same ol, same ol. But in between, GET OUTTA MAH WAY!! :)

SlavO Enthusiast

SlavO

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Posted

Lol. No bro i mean like a weeks driving... i used to get good numbers nothing like u 6.2 guys but since bigger tires leveling the truck i lost 2-3. But it's starting to go back up dince its getting nicer out. I use my 2 trip counters trip 1 for the tank of gas i fill up. Trip 2 from my last oil change i did. Im right at 31,xxx miles. Thinking of doing the crc just would like yo see some numbers over 400+ miles

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
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Sorta on the topic, but I have a theory on the 6.2 vs 5.3 mileage. The V4 mode in the 6.2 has a larger displacement as compared to the 5.3 in the same mode. In fact, the 5.3 has the smallest displacement of all:

 

4.3: 2.87L

5.3: 2.65L

6.2: 3.1L

 

So, the theory may hold that the 6.2 may be able to produce the greatest power in V4, and would, therefore, be able to enter V4 and hold it longer since the move to/from V4 is based largely on engine demand vs output. The 6.2 maaaay have sliiiightly higher pumping/frictional losses in V4, but I bet this is negligible.

 

As V4 mode is a big player in mileage, I wonder if this is actually a GOOD element with respect to the 6.2?

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