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Posted

Zaino. Period.

 

This coming from a guy with a 16 year old TA with WHITE leather interior which looks factory perfect.

Posted

Zaino. Period.

 

This coming from a guy with a 16 year old TA with WHITE leather interior which looks factory perfect.

I agree, it works great. I use their leather cleaner and then the conditioner. Not that the GM "leather" needs conditioning, I find it restores the new truck smell.

Posted

Been hooked on Lexol since the 90's when I first found it. They have a cleaner and conditioner.

Posted

I use Clorox wipes (<0.2% bleach) to maintain my interior leather/viynl and plastics. With its small amount of bleaching agent will clean away surface contaminants including denim dyes, stains, other transferred oils from hands, etc and will not harm the surface materials including leather. I know, some here will dispute these comments. I learned the 'trick" of using the wipes from a professional in Houston Texas that specializes detailing high-line vehicles including serious collector cars for private owners and has been doing it for more than 30 years.

 

His business is based in an Aston-Martin/Lotus/Mercedes-Benz dealership in Houston, Texas and his charges range from $1000-2000 per vehicle. Not for the average "joe", his clientelle consist of serious collectors who own serious automobiles, i.e.. Ferraris, Rolls, Bentleys, Morgans, Lambo's, Porsche, as well as antiques and other super cars.

 

Not you're local carwash dealer and a highly recognized specialist who would not use such products (Clorox wipes) if they could cause damage. He uses them on the cars mentioned above which include some of the finest leathers installed in automobiles and has done so for years. He, like many of us, also uses Lexol products (cleaner/conditioner) for treating auto leather but likewise cautions that one treatment per year is sufficient to maintain quality leather upholstery and helps to avoid buildup from over-use which can be as determinatal as not using a leather treatment at all.

 

I use the wipes on both my '14 GMC Truck as well as with my and my wife's other passenger cars which also have leather including light tan/beige colored upholstery and have done so for years, again no negative results. I even use them on my vintage '88 Mercedes 560 SL 2-de roaster and its Palamino leather that is 27+ years old and still looks and feels like new.

 

A DIY'r, I do my own detailing and also use Lexol and Zaino products so I know about quality products and proper car care not to mention that I was taught to "old school" way of cleaning/detailing cars and have had more than 40 years of practice myself.

 

To apply, I use the wipes, lightly and chase behind them with a clean white 100% cotton towels to dry the surfaces. Using the wipes also serves to maintain the french sticthing white in my truck and such that I don't have "bleed over" of dyes and other contaminants from the seat leathers that would darken the white threads.

 

Like I said, others here will dispute my claim no doubt and say that using the wipes will lead to premature drying and damage to the leather but it just ain't so.

 

Try them if your skeptical, use in an inconspicuous location as a test and see for yourself. Easy, cheap and efficient cleaning of your auto upholstery, door panels, dash and steering wheel and also leaves a fresh "new car" smell that is pleasing (doe's not smell like bleach).

Posted

I use a leather cleaner du jour. Lexol, and a host of others. Occasionally, I use one of my cowboy boot cleaner-moisturizers on the steering wheel leather. Glycerin based cleaners are my first choice as they serve to clean and nourish the leather. Lexol cleaner is a glycerin base. "Saddle Soap" is soap, lanolin, neetsfoot oil, and glycerin based as is a lot of the orangy clear liquids available at tack (horse) stores. Since I did horses for many years, I tried about every product I could find. Some work better than others, but not by a large margin. The main thing is to use a cleaner that puts a natural nourishment of oils and fats back into the leather, rather than extracting them with chemicals. I have a saddle that cost me more than my first car. I won't use harsh chemicals on it like alcohol, bleach and other things. Why would I use those chemicals on my truck seats? Probably second most important is to actually use the stuff. That's where I fall down on the job... :(

 

Don't forget to vacuum really well in the seams before using a cleaner. Stretch out the seams by pressing on the seat as you vacuum to get the dirt out of the seam. Dirt in the seam is what grinds the stitching and eventually cuts it, long before the leather will fail.

Posted

Love Zaino. It's easy to work with and leaves the truck with a fantastic leather smell. Been using it on our Nappa leather on the BMW as well.

Posted

Whatever you use, make SURE it's good for leather AND plastic. The ONLY leather is on the top of the seat and the front of the backrest. The rest is plastic.

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