Jump to content

2016 Silverado standard HID vs LED headlights


Recommended Posts

Posted
MHPrior80, on 22 Jun 2016 - 12:47 AM, said:

Is there a way to run the LED bulbs from a 16' to a 15'?

 

Yes but it would involve changing out the headlight housings, grille, hood, front bumper and a custom made wiring harness as you can't just get the led light bulb as it is built in as one unit with the headlight housing, from what I have been told.

  • Replies 33
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

 

Yes but it would involve changing out the headlight housings, grille, hood, front bumper and a custom made wiring harness as you can't just get the led light bulb as it is built in as one unit with the headlight housing, from what I have been told.

X2 on that. I just did the whole front end conversion to a 2015 and the 2016 led headlights are sealed

Posted

Is there a way to run the LED bulbs from a 16' to a 15'?

No. 16 headlights are a sealed unit. You cant just pop a bulb out. If you have a sierra then you can swap the headlights and run a gen5 harness. Thats what I did on my 14. See the avatar <<<<<

Posted

Is there a way to run the LED bulbs from a 16' to a 15'?

 

Drive that 2015 to the dealer and trade it on a '16. lol

Posted

Drive that 2015 to the dealer and trade it on a '16. lol

Lol thanks for the info Mike!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just picked up a 16 LTZ. Amazing difference between headlights in 16 vs my old 14.

I got fooled a little by the window sticker. I assumed LED taillights meant ALL the rear lights were LED, but my reverse lights and plate lights are regular bulbs. Want to switch out them out for LED. Do I need Canbus LED bulbs? And can I switch out just the reverse bulb in the 3rd light housing above the cab, or do I need to replace the whole unit?

Thanks

Posted

Yes the led lights are amazing. I think they are going to change some people's minds who retrofit hid only when they see them in person. The factory hid headlights could be improved though as they only run a 25w ballast on a d5s bulb. Upgrading the ballast to a denso 35 or 55 watt ballast would make the HID's much brighter I would think. Now if the d5s bulbs could stand that wattage, and heat are other questions all together.

Posted

I just picked up a 16 LTZ. Amazing difference between headlights in 16 vs my old 14.

I got fooled a little by the window sticker. I assumed LED taillights meant ALL the rear lights were LED, but my reverse lights and plate lights are regular bulbs. Want to switch out them out for LED. Do I need Canbus LED bulbs? And can I switch out just the reverse bulb in the 3rd light housing above the cab, or do I need to replace the whole unit?

Thanks

Here is the thread you need to reference.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153101-led-921-reverse-cargo-bulbs/page-18?hl=led%20bulbs

Posted

I just picked up a 16 LTZ. Amazing difference between headlights in 16 vs my old 14.

I got fooled a little by the window sticker. I assumed LED taillights meant ALL the rear lights were LED, but my reverse lights and plate lights are regular bulbs. Want to switch out them out for LED. Do I need Canbus LED bulbs? And can I switch out just the reverse bulb in the 3rd light housing above the cab, or do I need to replace the whole unit?

Thanks

 

 

Don't forget the T-10 Torx setup to access your taillights/cargo lights. Just replace with the bulbs below and you're set. Verified they work on a '16 LTZ.

 

(2) Phillips 921 Bright White Vision LED's for the Reverse Lights

(2) Phillips 921 Bright White Vision LED's for the Cargo Lights

(2) T10 Wedge LED's for the license plate bulbs

 

If the lights don't come on when you start your truck up, 180 flip the bulb and it'll work.

 

Edit: Weird...just noticed the LED wedges and the Torx size are the same...T10.

Posted

 

 

Don't forget the T-10 Torx setup to access your taillights/cargo lights. Just replace with the bulbs below and you're set. Verified they work on a '16 LTZ.

 

(2) Phillips 921 Bright White Vision LED's for the Reverse Lights

(2) Phillips 921 Bright White Vision LED's for the Cargo Lights

(2) T10 Wedge LED's for the license plate bulbs

 

If the lights don't come on when you start your truck up, 180 flip the bulb and it'll work.

 

Edit: Weird...just noticed the LED wedges and the Torx size are the same...T10.

 

The Phillips 921 are not bright and not worth the upgrade IMO! They use 2 small LED's then reflect the light on to a cone, I tried them they are just whiter than OEM, offer very little output, esp... since our rear reverse reflectors are not optimized for them. Not trying to start a war here everyone's got their own flavor, but I put my Phillips back in the box money wasted vs the ones below.

 

Below is a huge improvement over the Phillips 921s

 

I used these for my reverse lights. JDM ASTAR (these really make a statement, HEY I AM BACKING UP!!!)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUF1APW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I used these for my 3rd brake and cargo lamps, JDM ASTAR (these are a bit softer than the above but really light up the cargo area, even with inbed LED's)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3GBRQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Not related to Phillips 921 - License plate LED, and they fit nice. 2x are needed.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZEVO-White-Bulb-Pack/dp/B01A77S8TU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468361413&sr=8-4&keywords=sylvania+168

 

last bit, no warning lights come on in the cluster, although during install if you need to flip them you might get an OnStar monthly email showing they were out once.

Posted

I am a little suprised to hear you say that. I found them to be brighter than stock. Like you said, They were certainly whiter

Posted

I believe the JDMs are brighter than Philips just surprised to hear that you thought Philips were not brighter than stock.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...